z240

You would have to take the 78 door striker bar and attach it to your door frame with the accompanying required fabrication ( those things take a lot of force and abuse, back up plates, correct hardware and proper position are essential). You will have to use the 78 inner door panel as Fire604 is correct on the uniqueness of 77/78 items. Other than that, the 78 door will attach to the 74 hinges and fit in the opening. Been done many times. The far superior (smoother, easier to service) window tracking mechanism gives those later doors a real advantage as well. The relative rareity of glass and how it mounts them can be seen as a disadvantage as well if one ever gets broken... Your call, depends on how your fab skills and time allow.

That spacer is on the end of the crank. After you remove the flex plat, just tap it remove it, it not tight. Maybe a1/4" thick. You'll see it. You will also need a pilot bushing to go in the end of the crank. That should be it. You can use the flywheel and clutch you already have with the 5 speed. OH! You also may need the six flywheel/crank bolts from a manual car. They are longer I'm pretty sure due to the thinner flex plate on the auto. Anyone else confirm this? If you have the ones from your current engine, use those. Good luck!

The bolts are 10 x 1.5 mm. length is around 30mm Measure from the face of the trans case to the starter flange where the bolt goes through and add 15mm. You are indeed lucky.

How about all the way from Calgary? z240@shaw.ca

Hey gang, I'm in need of a 75-78 280z moustache bar for R200 swap into a 240, the usual story. Must be willing to postal ship to western Canada. Bushing condtion or presence unimportant. Let me know what you have. PM or email to z240@shaw.ca. Thanks! Jim

Hey Soup! Jim over here in Calgary on the other side of the rocks. I believe I have a new set of regular door WS I'm willing to trade those Kia ones. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we'll get this going. Jim

There is another option. There is a standard hex bolt size, 5/8" maybe, that is a near perfect match to the spindle pin OD. Need one about 10 or 11 inches long. Get a grade 8 or better, and get a self locking nylock nut for it too. THis is what came with my AZC adj. control arms a few years ago. Makes it real easy to get in and out. Hope this helps. Jim

beerman Actually hadn't thought of that. I assumed that having 0 ohm continuity between the coil and the tach connection wiring would transmit whatever signal there might be, but you're right. Don't know unless you look. I really need to get one of those oscilliscope hookup adapters for my laptop and look at the actiual waveform. The other thing I haven't looked as the quality of the crimp of the wire to the bullet connector on the tach signal wire. Maybe it connects with a meter probe stuck in there, but not when you actually push the bullet on the tach pin. Whose had that problem with the starter "trigger" spade connector ? I know I have.... This guy has had his dash out and in several times in the past... Another thing to do would be to hook up a spare tach in the engine bay with new 3 independant wires to coil -, thru a 2.2k resistor, and +12 and ground and see if it works out there. That would eliminate the car wiring entirely. Might be very instructive. See? It just took some ideas swirling around to get new troubleshooting ideas flowing. Thanks everyone! Jim

nope, stock 1976 280z voltage sensing tach. Thanks for giving it some thought. Jim

Just not looking at the right schematic. there are several out there. Try this one. 240Z wiring_25.pdf

I feel bad posting this, its such a simple problem, but I'm done beating my head against the wall on this and have now come to the collective for some ideas on what to do or look for next. Issue. "Routine" complete 83 ZXT turbo engine / harness/ ECU swap into a stock 76 280z chassis. The total job went very smooth. Not my first one. Harness mods are now straight forward, car started on first crank. Runs great. So what's the problem? The tach doesn't work. Searches here reveal no one having any issue with a 280 tach with ZXT ignition. Shouldn't be, same triggering as stock. I am usign the full coil/ignitor from the ZXT. Tests done so far. 1. Confirmation of wiring continuity between the negative side of the coil to the in-line resistor under the pass. dash, then from the inline resistor to the back of the tach bullet connector. Using stock wiring from coil to tach. 2. In-line resistor is correct 2200 ohm value. 3. Confirmation of 12v and ground to correct terminals on back of tach. With key "on" AND with car running. Even tried grounding the tach case with it dangling from the dash. 4. Tach was working correctly with prior stock ignition. 5. All connections clean and tight. 6. Last resort (you'll be proud) was to swap out the tach for a spare. Same issue. Tried yet another spare. Same issue. Not even a bounce or hint that its working. About the only unusual part of this is that we switched the dash location of the Tach and Speedo. I'm thinking this has upset Datsun karma in some way and its not allowing the tach to work when its in such a "wrong" location.... Clearly the only "difference" old to new is the new ZXT coil and the tach wiring running from the dash harness to a different tach physical location. Has anyone else had tach issues with the ZXT coil triggering that I just haven't found in my search? Bigger in-line resistor? Need to use the MSD tach trigger module? I haven't had to do that in the past. Ideas? Hint? Total way out brain waves? Anyone??? Jim

The link to clips and fasteners also revealed another tough to find item for S30's doors. Take a look at line 3, left side. Look what they have Jim

Something with a little attitude and some scenery too. If you please.

Tell Al I'll take his axle/adapter stuff. I sent him a PM Jim

I'll take one of those please. E-mail sent. Thanks! Jim

When replacing the water pump, you may have missed corrosion/cavetating damage on the front cover. Without a proper clearance between the pump vanes and the cover, pumping efficiency is lost. Causes for the cavitation have been discussed here, worth seeing if the root causes apply to your engine.

The eye bolts are a great idea, just remember to get them 10 x 1.50 thread to fit the head bolt threads. Tony's link points to 8x1.25 bolts, lest anyone blindly gets some without a sanity check. And the 10x1.5 size jumps up in price astronomically to $7.02....

You know I hate to ask, but did you pump grease into them after the initial install? Won't surprise me is they came dry. Grease costs money and adds shipping weight. Yet another way to make them "cheaper"....

If it looks like a duck and walks like a duck..... then.... Zoom in on the downpipe area and play image enhancement games with Brightness and contrast.... and yes, that dang "bush" is strategically placed to hide the two details that matter, the dizzy and the j-pipe....

There is only one difference. If you check the steel structure around the outer bushing holes, you see the 75 arms are somewhat more re-enforced in that area. So for the sake of additional strength, you could use the 75 arms, but really there is no significant difference for a street car. Use the set that is has the least overall damage and rust, determined AFTER you sand blast them. Good luck

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42712-A-Questionl.-240-280-seats Recently discussed over at czcc. There are three different seat brackets. Basically 240-early 260, then late 260' 75-76 280, then 77-78. all seat cushions exchange years and mount to the brackets, but bracket to floor mounting is very different. 240 have studs, all others use bolts just to show how different they are.