z240

The bolts are all 8x1.25mm thread. Length you can measure. Take the thickness of the hole in the cover, add 16mm, that's the length you want. Very common metric thread. Use anti-seize on them for next time... Please don't give "him" $25 for 4 bolts! Shipping will be almost as much on top of that.

Is that all you need? Buy Canadian! Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we'll arrange details. How's $20 including postage. Got the 4 screws? Just to be sure, what year 240 are we talking? The early ones with the 'A' trans use a different boot that does not use a ring. Jim

There are stark differences in the two dashes that make this a difficult swap. Especially the wiring, there is virtually NOTHING that matches up connector wise between the two. The mounting points are more or less the same, ie you can bolt either one in (at least along the top and under the ends, but not the center), but hooking up everything from air vents to heater controls (totally different) will be, how do you say, "challenging":.. You will need a 280 console to make it match up to the totally different shape of the console center section too. Your best bet is stick entirely with your instruments and wiring, try to get them mounted in the dash (the gauge mounting is totally different, more fun, you'll be putting your guts into the 280 housings....), then deal with each of the other issues as they arise. Its just not worth it unless you really like a challenge IMHO

Put the car on the ground to get weight on the wheels and roll it back and forth by hand. Maybe it needs weight on the bearings, or to get the suspension in some specific position to make it happen. Drive shaft rubbing something? Half shafts rubbing brake or e-brake cable? TIres/wheels rubbing springs or perches or brake calipers? Do it by changing one thing at a time until you find the source. Methodical...

Some steering component has excessive play. Anything that causes a cyclic vibration to occur, which is most easy to explain by a loose steering component. Check lower ball joint, upper steering bearing, tie rod ends, rack bushings, suspension bushings, even wheel bearings, or a really bad shock can do it. Is it worse on one side than on the other? Even wear on both sides is tougher to explain, other than some shared component having excessive play (rack?) . It is totally one sided, it is easier to explain and find as it cuts out half of the components to check and replace.

Looks like strictly pitting corrosion. There appears to be adequate smooth surface area outside of the holes for a decent seal with a bit of sealer on the gasket. If you're concerned, grind out the pits, have it welded/filled back up, re-drill the hole and surface it. Expected stuff for racers with used parts, no? Buying used parts comes with some risk. His return policy is clearly stated on the site and he offered better than that stated policy.

Intake or exhaust manifold? Just clarifying for others.

Does your motor have a 6 pin rectangular plug or a round one? Those darn 260's had some wiring connectors like 240, others like 280. Will help us determine if we have one that's a direct plug and play or not.

Areas on the hatch are exposed! Only the rectangular vinyl trim panel and glass cover anything on the inside of the hatch! That should be it though.

I'm sure they are stong enough. They are referring to 150 lbs pull force (lbs) not torque (ft-lbs) They do seem like a well made item. About the only down side is security. Anyone can open the hood now. Who remembers the press and turn hood latches just like their twist lock style on the 70 mustangs? Whats old is new again...

Back to basics!! After fuel pressure confirmation as above, disconnect linkage on all three carbs and make SURE all idle adjusts are just off, (ALL the butterflies closed, no contact from mechanical idle adjust). Your idle mix screws all at 1.5 turns out? Then hook up linkage to each carb making sure each is the same length all arms are at the same angle off of the main shaft (assuming here you have the standard shaft with three arms and three variable length links to the each carb) and applied NO additional throttle application once connected. THEN see what happens when you try to start it. You will have to hold the linkage open a bit since your linkage has no idle in it, but that should do away with the crazy idle speed. Then dial in a tiny bit of mech idle on each in turn so it can hold its own idle. Verify same idle flow on all 6 barrels with unisyn or similar. Go from there.

vintageconnections.com has them. And lots more.

Excellent find! I do not remember anyone reporting this so far. I found these same holes/gaps when stripping the under belly of my 73 this winter. Looks like the seam sealer that was applied in this area ran a little short..... Both sides were remarkably similar in the way the adjacent sealer bead just stopped a bit short..... I took pictures, I'll have to post them. I remember a thread a few years ago on CZCC about a frustrated guy that used a smoke machine on the outside and a sealed interior wiht a vacuum attached to watch where smoked flowed into the cabin. He mentioned the same "It was coming through the dang seams!!!" observation.

You require venting when filling AND when the car is running. Air has to get in or out as gas is added or removed. Common method is to use ONE vent line (top side) to the filler neck, with a tee that connects to the existing (1/4", or 3/16") hard vent line that you already have that goes up front to vent to the crank case via the little valve thing below the coil (240's anyway) or to the carbon can on 280's. Do not plug all your vent lines! Jim

How early? The first totally clean one? I have one. PM or send me an email z240@shaw.ca Thanks, Jim

It would also be helpful to rotate the input shaft a bit in a attempt to get gears to line up...

Ok, I'll ask the question. Are the VLSD CV's candidates for the shorter shafts that Jon makes? Anyone had a set apart to check? Reason I ask is, a local member has recently acquired a nice VLSD and shafts for his 76 280, but judging by the CV shaft lengths I see here compared to the other, ain't NO WAY they are going to fit in the dang car without Jon's short axles....

You simply could not get it hot enough with the torch you were using. No magic here, just too much metal and not enough heat. Aluminum transfers heat SO well and with that amount of mass, even the Oxy/propane setup is not enough to keep a large enough volume at temperature. a "real " Oxy/Aceytlene setup is what you need here I'm afraid or a MIG/TIG approach. BTW, I'm a HTS2000 rod lover myself. Used them on all sorts of repair, filler, and joining operations.

Nice job and good find! No surprise that it fits so well, says right there on the package, "fits all import and domestic vehicles"

oh for heavens sake, just put some decent sized vise grips on the reverse switch plug and use a hammer on the wrench to help it break free. Its nothing special and rarely tight. The correct size for it is 19mm but the flats on the body are a bit in-distinct. Disconnect the two wire bullets and put the box end of the wrench over the wires and onto the hex of the switch and try that first.

Are you desparate enough to get one from western Canada? I have a separated one if you run out of options. z240@shaw.ca

The only thing thin enough that I was able to find that worked when faced with this problem was a set of large flat feeler gauges that go down to 0.003 or so. Then you have enough to place all around the gauge but still thin enough not to block it. A bit of heat to soften the cap helps a bit too. No matter what you do, its just a royal PITA.

Could try something crazy like your Nissan dealer.

5mm x 0.8mm nearly for sure, but if not, then 6mm x 1.00mm.

$33K is totally fair. Six new pugs aren't cheap you know!