z240

Yes, its a bolt pattern issue. The wilwood 1" a good alternative as the 15/16 Nissan ones have become very hard to find. For me its more of a "new" vs "rebuilt" issu. There is a sticky on this forum with the details of what is needed to use the Wilwood master. Silvermine claims to have a source for 15/16's one, either would be fine.

The stock pushrod threads are 8mm x 1.25 mm pitch. Do you not have the old pushrod/clevis assembly from the old master? that would be the easiest way to solve this.

Can anyone fill in the missing information here regarding this magically "C" 260 cam? If its a Nismo part, it would have to be purchased and installed by someone post dealership, wouldn't it? Why is it specific to 260's? Or are we saying some of these came stock from Nissan this way? The atlantic site cam table suggests all 260's came with this cam, then the excerpt from z240zdude says its a performance Nismo part. Just wondering how likely it is that someone with a 260 engine is going to find this cam in it. Mine doesn't have one.... Inquiring minds need to know!!

240 hubs have four large scallop cutouts around the circumference, 280 hubs are nice and round. Sunny needs scallops. or shrimp; or oysters...

Those lights in the ECU are diagnostics, not "power on" lights. Check the FSM for their intended function and how to read them.

Mostly its the strikers that are totally different as you know. You have to remove the old strikers and concoct a way to mount the 77 striker to the door frame in the correct place., and with sufficient strength so that it is safe and will last as it takes a large beating. There is a thick plate behind the pillar that you really need access to modify it to accept the 77 striker. Not easy to get to. One "idea" that a friend had when thinking about this conversion for his 76, (to give credit where due) was to use the existing 3-bolt pattern for the current striker, and embed the 77 striker within a plate that duplicates the flat, non-raised part of the early striker. If you overlay them, the two bolt holes on the 77 striker are well within the distance between the upper and lower bolt holes on the early striker. ie, machine a "hole" the shape of the 77 striker into a 1/8" or so plate with the 3 holes and exterior shape the size of the early striker, and weld them together. Then just bolt this thing to the existing three holes in the door post. This would add no - additional thickness to the striker. This does of course assume that the location of the striker when latched to the 77 door happens to place it "inside" the confines of the bolt pattern of the old striker. Didn't carry our thoughts to this extent but the idea seems easy enough to do, and doesn't require cutting into the post area to get access to the plate in the back, then putting all that back together again. Just "extending" the exterior of the 77 striker by welding similar sized plate to it to get it to cover the 3 existing holes should work no matter where the stiker has to sit unless the new striker "bar" part just happens to fall over one or more of the existing holes when in the "right" spot... Also remember the interior door trim panel is VERY different from earlier models not just where the lock knob comes through. the rear edge is at a steeper rack and is shorter overall to allow room for the embedded latch mechanism. This drastically reduces the number of door panels out there to choose from if you need some later. Good luck! It can be done, we have a member nearby that has a 77 pass. door on his '75. It does "fit"...

I have a couple of parts quality R180's laying around over here in Calgary that I can steal an input flange from for ya. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we can get you something on the road to you tomorrow. Jim

Best description out there of the parts and process: http://classiczcars.com/forums/thread21274.html

The loose green/red came usoldered from the green wire terminal on the switch. It goes out to the defroster grid. Red is +12, black is ground. Turning on the switch connects the red to green, turns on the defroster and the indicator light in the switch. Send it to me and I'll fix it for you. One warning, I may keep it for a few years though and use it.... I've been looking for one of those... And that loose white green pair go to the turn signal flasher. or is it the hazard? One is under the steering column, the other is over in the passenger foot well.

I can part with one set. I'm not exactly close (western Canada) , but willing to help if I can. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca Jim

I got some spare ones if you really need one. Your for the price of postage + $1. Let me know z240@shaw.ca Jim

no way. PO modification to tweak the mix to his liking.

Not so simple as straight replacement with a "cube" relay. The FSM shows this relay has dual coils and two sets of contacts. As suggested, open up the one you got and trouble shoot it. Most likely dirty contacts rather than a burned out coil, but you never know. I'll dig through my box-o-relays for one, but don't hold your breath.. I see how you could use a new cube relay to use the output of the oil pressure switch to ground the trigger coil of a new relay to connect +12v to pin 91 of the fuel pump relay (ie turn it on) instead and drop the use of the simultaneous alternator output altogether.

Go to the store and buy 4 bolts. 10x 1.5mm thread, 10.9 strength, long enough to go thru the depth of the trans holes + 20mm more. The pair at the bottom through the cover plate are generic 8mm stuff. Nothing magic.

The regular 280z R200 moustache bar has the double bend that I think I see in pic #2, but yeah, then why need to enlarge the bolt holes to or beyond 14mm ? The cross member between the hangers is the usual 280z curved R200 style, so he must have gotten that from a 280, so why not the bar too? Just test fit the subie diff. The only options you have to flip the M-bar the other way and see if the front diff mount bolts to the chassis in the right spot. If it does, you're good to go. Just had a thought. Maybe the holes were "worn" larger by loose M-bar nuts, rather then being intentionally drilled out like that. Any damage to the studs on the R200 diff? Might even be old - old damage. Just make sure your nuts are tight! (you know what I mean....)

$75 shipped for a nice pair from western Canadia if all else fails. Let me know z240@shaw.ca

Mr Coffee, I am framing your quote and putting it on my shop wall, with your permission of course, with due credit. When another person asks "why don't you just turbo it?" I can just point now, instead of getting into a long discussion....

Careful, s30 2+2 hatch is quite different in shape and mounting at the hinges. Pretty sure the glass is different as well, the fiche says different part numbers. 90301 N3700 2+2 90301 N3300 Coupe

MSA has a listing for them. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1C02/30-7307 for $120. Likely come from some place like Tabco. Only place I've actually seen a listing for them....

The 280 door cards have a different shape of hole that accept only the plastic clip style. The cutouts look like dumb bells with different size round bells, where the larger round hole is where you insert the base of the plastic clip, then you push it into the other smaller hole to lock and locate it. The 240 door cards have a simple round hole with a tiny rectangle cutout on one side, which marks the side OPPOSITE of the orientation of the metal clip. You can put the 240z metal clips on the 280 cards, but they are difficult to get sitting in the right position to line up with the holes in the doors, which I believe are the same ID and will accept the tang of the metal clip. You might be able to find those plastic clips generically at the car parts store, but you won't find the exactly correct metal ones... MSA has the plastic ones if you get stuck.

I just happen to have a few of these. I can help a fellow Canuck save a shipping buck or two! Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there. Jim

You might try your local Nissan dealer. You never know. For 05/70 - 08/71 the clutch pin # is 46123-08700 from the fiche. The clip 00921-11910. Brake is 46123-A1100 and pin 00921-11810. Another alternative are AN drilled bolts like these from aircraft spruce http://www.aircrafts...s/ha/bolts.html I'm using them with small bearings set into the clutch pedal arm to make the action smoooooooooth... Got tired of the click and crick of the worn pins and holes.... I suspect McMasterCarr in the US has similar hardware available. I have a few "slightly" worn ones somewhere if things get desparate....

if you can see the top of it, directly onfront of the shifter, a 4 sp has a cover plate that bolts on the top of the housing with 4-5 bolts.

I'm wondering if the rail isn't cracked. Inspect it carefully. What size fuel rail are you running that uses a 1/2" NPT inlet! and better yet, what massive fuel sucker motor are you feeding with it? The repair will likely involve welding up the hole and/or crack, drill and re-tap.

10 x 1.25mm x 28mm long. 30's probably fine. These are shoulder bolts like the caliper to strut bolts which centres them in the rotor holes they pass though. There are 4 of them...