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superduner

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Everything posted by superduner

  1. superduner
    Good looking out my man. Keep searching. Not in a rush to pay thst pretty penny. But I'll keep you in mind of push comes to shove.
  2. superduner
    Found myself a donor zxt for my 70 but it came with an auto Trans! Looking for a BW T5 for my set up. Looking for it in the southern California area if possible. But hit me up if you got a spare one you're willing to part with anyway. Maybe shipping might be worth it if the price is right. Thanks everyone!
  3. superduner
    Yeah it's all good I got that no problem
  4. superduner
    Oh I didn't know that good looking out! I'll get get them rebarrelled then. Still in the market for a set of these
  5. superduner
    In the market for a set of these wheels for my 240z . Hit me up
  6. superduner
    Got my motor set up and now looking for the rear end. Let me know what youve got a spare or flipping yours. Located in San Diego, CA
  7. superduner
    I've Been on the hunt locally here in San Diego on junkyards and Craigslist for the set or a donor z31 I could yank it off of but no luck. Seeing if anyone has a spare. Shoot me a pm or whatever. Thanks!
  8. superduner
    Will be pretty dope if we get some VVTI 2jz 240z mounts and R154 5-speed trans. Will be getting my swap soon so mounts will be needed
  9. superduner
    Hey, you got a car that runs brother, you definitely got the upper hand. In regards to my frame strengthening it definitely needs some work From what I've been told. Seems the rollbar was previously welded on without making bases/pillars or whatever on the floor so it seems IF I rolled, the tubing would penetrante out of the floor and the roof would come down on me. Granted I wouldn't be tracking the csrcar or racing it. But still, looking forward to having a functional safe cage. How much was your swap, trans, electrical if you don't mind me asking?
  10. superduner
    That looks awesome man would love to end up with a set up like that bro. Simple, clean, reliable. Just got done prepping the roll bar for paint. Thank mankind for power tool eh? Haha interior is looking so much cleaner simply with a rust free roll bar haha. Definitely stoked to keep working on the rest of the interior. Surface rust everywhere! From sitting outside for good while haha. Loving the project though. Already imagining the end result.
  11. superduner
    So it's definitely been a mission landing parts locally for the car but finally managed to land me a 70 hatch and vented hood. Car looks like Frankenstein, but it's coming along. Just picked up stock suspension from the junkyard luckily and cleaning up the underbody and prepping from the end suspension for urethane bushings and paint. "Thank God for power tools eh?" next up will be filling up my oxygen and acetylene tank to hear up the floor pans and straighten them out, paint and dynamat them.
  12. superduner
    Oh snap, if so, someone did one heck of a job welding her back together haha
  13. superduner
    I've had a few z's in the past and always fixed them up, made them run and look nice and had to eventually sell them due to random reasons. But now, I feel I've landed myself a keeper! Saw an add on Craigslist for a 71 shell and after a long wait period to hear from the seller we finally struck a deal and head out to pick it up in the middle of nowhere. To say the least, upon arrival the car had absolutely NOTHING in it. And by nothing I mean NOTHING. No mechanical, no brake or fuel lines, no interior no hatch, no windows ... heck, the owner had to Wire the suspension and instead of bolts ran steel wires in between holes (spindle, control arms, etc) just to get it in all fours, which made a huge of a difference when it came to load on to flat bed. While almost no bolts were even provided, To my surprise, the owner had a fair amount of the original parts in a small trailer ready to piece together and threw everything in for free!. The original hatch had miraculously somehow flown off when he previously transported the car home and thus far car's still hatch less. The following day while making a list of the missing parts and further inspection I came to realize the car is actually a 7/1970 car! ^O_O^ After settling down for a few days I found out the car was owned by a member here and got some cool pics and info about the cars history. Found that while the car was very rust free it's definitely had its fun and abuse at the track. Regardless, I got the empty shell for a good price and a positive open mind with hopes of giving this girl new life and a new future far far away from either junkyard and or smasher. I'll be posting some pics of my lady soon. For now, for sure I know I'll be running a 2JZ-GTE power plant & 6speed supra Trans with Z31 finned clsd/CV rear end. Pending the sale of my IS300 to fund the project. For now, let the parts search begin!
  14. superduner
    Sweet! Yeah on my previous z I had the stock drums on the back and it felt more balanced than breaking on the zx / Toyota set up my buddy had. Definitely going for street use and I'm sure the rear drums might not looking as cool/fancy but do you think 4 piston front and rear drums would be a good set up? (since we're talking brakes already) haha
  15. superduner
    Thank you kind sir pretty much sums up what I needed to verify. 4 piston front calipers & zx/sx rear disks would work well with the 15/16 Mc and 280z booster in your opinion
  16. superduner
    Just bought a 70 240z she'll and came with absolutely nothing for the stopping game, including but not limited to brake lines! :'( done a lot cosmetic and body work but finally getting to the fun part.the Mechanics! Since the car has no brake lines or distribution block, booster etc etc etc. Just wondering if anyone knows if the diameters from various S30 /s130 were bigger than others of the actual lines vary. I've read more fluid & pressure = better so looking to source some lines for this lady. Or would oem 240z lines work just as well as say 280z lines. I'll be sourcing a 15/16 master cylinder $ fitting either 280z or maybe zx booster for the better stopping power.
  17. superduner
    Definitely don't mean to thread jack but SIGN ME UP for one of these as well. No need to spam with a new thread when i can hop on the bandwagon. Hit me up if you've got one one or more for grabs. cheers
  18. superduner
    Very nice! Thank you for the background info on it. Definitely seem like it showed it's owner(s) a good time and vice versa. Car was in my own personal opinion,immaculate for the year. Haven't really dug deep into the belly of the beast to check for frame damage or cracks as you mentioned but being owned by someone who worked or knew fab work I can't imagine itl need further body reinforcement. By any chance will you happen to have any pictures of the strut bars or what kind went on from the strut pillar to the hood latch firewall area? I'll be swapping a 2JZ-GTE and 6 speed on her and make her a fun reliable weekend street car. Your thoughts?
  19. superduner
    Haha sweet! Small world indeed. Looked up some of the cars history pics. Seems like I'll have to have a more in dept look for possible cracks in metal and what not. I'm hoping whomever weld in the roll cage also repaired the cracks as it was a nice weld job. If not, I'll definitely have to take it to a fab shop and have them work on and reinforce the body. Not planning on tracking it or dragging it what so ever but better be safe than sorry right?
  20. superduner
    I am located in San Diego, California. Just picked up an amazingly clean and taken care of 1970 complete shell. Long story short it came with almost nothing for the Interior but wiring harness. In addition the hatch somehow flew off as the previous owner transported it. So I bought it as is. Currently in search of cosmetics for it. - Series One hatch (with vents and vertical defrosting lines) - VENTED 76-78 280z hood (with vents attached) - set of tail lights (with bulbs & pigtails if possible) - dashboard - center console - ZG flares In addition to the previous short list. I realized after further inspection and cleaning that the cars suspension and underbelly was pieced together and held mostly by steel zip ties basically just enough to load on to the flat bed and transportation but overall it's missing a ton of various bolts. So basically if someone has a spare bucket full of datsun bolts and nuts that are for these cars that Include but not limited to (Control arms, tie rods, corner lights, fenders, bumpers, spindles, interior misc) they're willing to part with please do contact me as I made the mistake of leaving my huge huge protein bottle full of Z bolts and nuts on my last sold car. #EpicFail.
  21. superduner
    ~UPDATE~ So today i decided to go all out in making sure the timing on the car was not the problem with the performance of the car. So i proceeded to take the radiator/ fans off etc and take better pictures so i can get some feedback. I refered to other sites and information gathering such as: 1) http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html 2) http://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/check-adjust-l-timing-chain-stretch-l24-l26-l28-l28e-l28et-30099/ And i came to the following images upon tempering with my crank pulley. I noticed that the shiny link lines up in the middle of dot 3 on the cam gear. Also i was for some reason after continuous checking and crank pulley turning. and lighting with a flashlight, i was unable to find the "groove" on the back of the cam pulley through the holes. I located the stationary mark on the cam retaining plate, but saw or found none on the actual cam sprocket;therefore i was unable to align or check for that.After refering to Website #1 im thinking either the chain must have been replaced, the head must have been redone, or the engine rebuilt....or ? FEEDBACK Please?
  22. superduner
    questions might seem dumb but ive been curious for a while., but is "normal" for the crank pulley to wobble a little? and hmm.. i had a feeling timing couldn't be WAY too far off that badly, the car wouldn't even start or stay on from what ive read on L28ET timing related threads.
  23. superduner
    So i bought a timing gun. and went through some forums with timing problems and adjustment posts for timing. I proceeded to get new plugs, i gapped them to specs according to haynes. i installed new cap and rotor. (new MSD Blaster 2 coil and Magnecore wires ordered ). Plug connection, and finally disconnected the + battery terminal and brushed the ECU pins and plugs. i reconnected everything, i removed the sparkplugs as indicated, i placed cyl 1 in what appears to be TDC and took some pictures. Based on these pictures, is everything where it supposed to be? because when i put the timing light on the area to adjust (even with white out on the crank pulley timing mark) the mark was nowhere to be seen. I figured i would start with getting the timing done right and get the ignition based margin of error out of the way
  24. superduner
    Correct, it seems i'm going to have to time the car correctly first as i just found out on another forum that it seems my dist shaft tooth needs to be adjusted one tooth over? or the timing chain needs to be adjusted one tooth over? the sparkplugs are grayish/ black moist with fuel, which i believe the car is running too retarded?
  25. superduner
    I totally agree with you i doubt the boost leak us huge IF there is one. The mechanic i took it too did tell me he did a compression and leak down and everything came out fine; however, i am not sure or have any proof whether the guy even bother to touch the car at all while he had it at the shop. I did a shaft play test and moved it around to check the condition of the shaft while the engine was in the hoist and no shaft play at all was noticed. Fuel Pressure was something il take a look at next since it should be inexpensive. AFM should be fine. I have two more spares laying around but ill switch them around and see if anything changes performance wise. Wish i had a spare ECU to be honest, at this point i wouldn't be surprised if that was the problem "maybe". Sparkplugs last i checked were moist with gas so an abundance of gas is definitely being sprayed, which is what brought me to the assumption of boost/ vacuum leak, causing the engine to acomodate by spraying more fuel ?
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