~KnuckleDuster~

This website may be of help. I ordered my clsd r200 from them and was very pleased with the quality and shipping / packaging. http://whiteheadperformance.com/product-category/240z-260z-280z-70-78/240z-280z-diff-differential-axles-lsd/

Nice work, RB's just look so natural in an s30. Do you plan on doing anything with the rear diff?

Can anyone tell me a part number for water pump/alt belt on a street version damper? Stock looks like a 39", the race version looks to run a 33" belt so I'm pretty sure I need a 31" belt but if anyone has a part number off hand it would save me some time. Thanks

Edit: 2/29/2016 Did some routine maintenance today. To get some of the fluids that were left over in the engine out. I changed the oil after the first few drives and it came out creamy brown. It was sitting for who knows how long so this was my second oil change within a hundred miles or so and it looks a lot better this time around. Coolant was looking a little brown as well so I flushed that out as well and put in some fresh coolant in. There's a couple different OEM oil filters you can get for the RB series.. 15208-53J0A is what you will find when you look up what filter to use. 15208-55Y0A is what I prefer to run since the filter is twice the size. I also replaced the fuel filter to a 16400-N7605-JP which is for the 300zx, 280zx ect.

ATI Damper is here. I wanted to replace the stock pulley mostly for the weight reduction benefits but the oem damper is also a part that can wear over time and if it fails can destroy your whole motor if out of balance. I've invested time and money into naturally aspirated sr20's in the past and reducing any rotational mass from the crank will result in better throttle response and a sense of a lighter car. In a turbo application you probably won't "feel" much of a difference with mods such as this but when n/a the change is quite noticeable. The ati damper is small in diameter so I'll need to run a small belt, and should be 5 to 8 lbs. lighter. I will weigh both and find out exactly. You can contact ATI directly and they can make you a damper with only one accessory belt for even more weight loss but it will cost you more money for them to custom build one. I opted for the off the shelf model with 2 row pulley even though I'll just be using one belt. Model 918598.

Finding any n/a rb motor for sale in general seems like a hard task lately. Matt, what made you decide to go away from the turbo L series? Are you still keeping that motor around?

So I've come to the conclusion the 3.9 ratio R200 isn't doing the job. The gears are still quite tall. In my previous Z I had a 4.11 r180 which suited the RB trans very nicely. Well I came across a differential that will be a little more wild that that.. a 4.375 R200 w/ LSD. Wasn't cheap but it should make a big difference. The diff comes from an HR31 which was the first skyline to be equipped with the RB motor (rb20). The n/a RB25 trannys are the same as rb20's so it should be a perfect match without having to worry about too high of RPMs on the highway. The added benefit of the CLSD will make powering out of corners a night and day difference as well. Looks like the outer seals are new and original paint on the housing shows very little wear. Come to find out an R34 with RB25DE motor has a 4.364 rear end, so with this new diff I'll be getting it back to normal. Here's some info I found online: Final drive options ; /top speed / ft-lbs at wheel in 4th 3.357 ---------------- 385km-------68.5 3.538 ---------------- 365km-------72 3.692 ---------------- 350km-------75 3.917 ---------------- 330km-------80 4.083 ---------------- 317km-------83.35 4.111 ---------------- 314km-------83.91 4.364 ---------------- 296km-------89 4.375 ---------------- 295km-------89.3 4.636 ---------------- 279km-------94.6 4.900 ---------------- 264km-------100

It's just a generic 2 pod holder. Found on ebay for around $10.

I have a damaged P90 head as well. Shipping might not be as bad since I'm in cali..

Coming out for the winter

Well here's the result from raising my rear end up. I think it's just a little to high at the moment and needs to be dropped down a pinch but it's getting there. I also have 280z rear strut mount insulators now which raised the rear up but the lack of negative camber is bothering me. I'm not sure if the taller insulators are a result of my camber change or not. I got a set of MSA control arm camber adjustment bushings and went to get an alignment with intentions of getting a degree or so of negative camber but they said they couldn't do it. I'm thinking they didn't know what they were doing so maybe Ill have to try a professional shop for a proper alignment. What do you guys think?

I got back to working on my glove box gauges. I ditched the boost gauge for a dedicated vac gauge. Don't have any use for the switch panel right now...looks kinda cool though. Wired everything in and works really well for me. Easily visible from the driver seat and totally hidden when I want it to be. AFR's seem to be good ..13.1 at WOT.