jthom5147

I have a setup I'd part with. Currently running in my 260. I'm in SoCal so you'd have to figure out freight. PM me if you want more details

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Location? Have a 3.7. Missing pinion flange.

Timing of the injectors to the valve events will affect performance. But many standalone fuel control systems use batch firing (megasquirt 1 & 2, 3 if not configured, and others).... which inherently fire fuel based on RPM at controlled pulses relative to the needed fuel charge. Fuel delivery is not instantaneous, and may overlap valve events on one, but not all cylinders in the batch. MS3 and other standalone control systems with individual fuel delivery timing. Does the stock system independently control the injectors anyway?

As far as detrimental, or severely affecting performance... I can't comment as your definition of detrimental or severe would likely be different than mine. Manifold design affects performance... runner length, flow dynamics, etc. On carb'd cars the runner length changes performance aspects in the amount of time the air-fuel mixture has to atomize/homogenize before entering the cylinder. I would imagine that longer atomization time > more homogenous intake charge = different performance to the effect of better ignition / burn rates. I would call that improved performance. Longer runners might have tradeoffs.... like decreased throttle response. Or if such principles would apply to an injection system which inherently atomizes the fuel?... I don't know. However, there are many examples of engines with injectors away from the cylinder head / valves: there are ITB EFI manifolds available for L series engines with such a design. There are other motors which use single or batched injection of the fuel charge near the throttle body.

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Looked for any late model Z31 diffs? http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html I have a 3.7 open, missing pinion flange. pm me if interested.

my mechanic and fabricator says it's a great product and that the company's customer service / tech support is spot on.

Looking for an l series 5 speed bell housing to convert to an FS5W71C. If you have a converted one available, would be interested in that too. Would prefer local (SoCal) to avoid shipping, but might entertain shipping for a converted bell.

Still looking for the PS pump.

Purchased oil cooler(s) and a hood today. Looking for PS pump with bracketry and lines now. Thanks everyone.

Hi All, Looking for a complete OEM 82 ZXT Automatic oil cooler system (front mount core, bent sandwich plate, high pressure lines, and threaded block bung) And, looking for OEM ZX power steering pump, with engine bracket, pulleys, and lines Also, looking for a vented S30 hood in good condition. don't want to deal with shipping though so it needs to be local (SoCal). 77-78, or other style is fine, send pics

This isn't my first swap so I'm sure there will be unseen costs / budget items. I'm just looking at the major points / big purchases. E.g. Manual swap needs: R154 + bell housing + clutch/flywheel assy ~est 2k for a questionable r154, or a collins adapter with custom flywheel and VG transmission for ~1500ish. plus clutch integration and lines, etc. ECU to bypass/simplify the aristo auto tranny harness. Was looking at MS PNP for 2JZ. Kit is ~1500. Auto swap needs wiring figured out. Works Bell sells a paddle shifter kit for ~500 for the V161 TT/VVTI aristo which is what i'd be getting. P, N, D, etc gear control I'm pretty sure is a simple multi-circuit switch.... Radio Shack can help with that assuming they're still in business when i get around to it. lol. Factory TT2JZ will get me really close to power goals. I'll have to figure out if the stock ECU can handle adjusting boost levels to get the extra power i want. hopefully the ceramic turbos can take it too. but 350ish HP isnt excessive for that motor. Obviously both swaps need driveshafts / crossmembers, etc. I'll weld those up myself and outsource the prop shaft. And LOTS of time.

A341E Source: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_transmission 2.531, 1.531, 1.000, 0.705, R1.88, FD 3.916 Note: Wikipedia also says this was behind the Volvo 2.9L I6 which would be an interesting swap also. TT model offered factory in the USA from Volvo. Parts / maintenance might be an issue though. R154 Source: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_transmission#R154 3.251, 1.995, 1.310, 1.00, 0.753 (R and FD not listed) I can see what you mean that the auto ratios for 1 and 2 fall in between 1-2 and 2-3 on the R154 which might take getting used to long term / require gear hunting. But the lower OD gear on the auto would be nice for cruising when looking at the FD of ~3.92. The shortnose R200 I'm is ~4.11 so that might help acceleration and offset the OD vs the manual option. I'm really tempted by this. Especially at the price point. Although I'd want to find a way to integrate the driver with shifting again. The auto has a "manual" mode that's electronically controlled. It probably works similar to my 2013 tundra with electronic auto, but that's speculation. Paddle shifters or custom wiring of gear selector might be looked into.

From the Wikipedia reading I did do about the auto the gear 1-4 auto gears are roughly equivalent to 2-5 in the R154 (or similar Aisin 5 speed GM badges manuals: AX-15). 1st gear in the auto is 2.5ish and 4th is OD at 0.75 which if I remember right is lower than 5th in the R154. I'll check now and post the results.

Can I ask why you would resurrect an 8 month old thread just to put some unsubstantiated opinions?

Thanks Russ. I really appreciate the feedback.

Push it in and apply some high temp silicone around where it enters the block.

If the intake manifold gasket is brand new, did it exhibit the problem before installing the new gasket? A quick way to check for intake manifold leaks is to use some vacuum tube. Put one end to your ear and the other along the sealing surfaces (at bolt holes, gaskets, capped vacuum lines, etc). You'll hear a distinct "whistling" when the tip of the tube is near the leak.

Throttle position sensor: dirty contacts, poor ground? Vacuum leak: on or around intake manifold, afm, at head-intake gasket surface? AFM contacts dirty, loose, poor ground? Too lean at idle? What are your AFRs like? Distributor: vacuum leak at vacuum advance or damaged advance diaphragm, distributor cap/ rotor worn or corroded?

Thanks Russ. I've read through that thread before but must have missed it because I was always focused on manual transmissions. I did find a post from you on Viczcar forums that said you were using the 1J auto trans. Wikipedia told me it was the same trans so hopefully it'll fit similarly and not sit too low with a 2J vs 1J. Thank you for the reply!

Hi All, I'm finishing up my chassis / suspension work in my 260 and am beginning to research a potential powerplant to swap in. Currently the car is a stock l28et setup with a fs5w71B 5 speed. With time and resources, I'm sure the l28et can be improved to achieve my goal of ~350hp. Car will be street driven. However, being in SoCal has the benefit of local and relatively inexpensive import engines. a 2jzgte from an aristo with 4spd auto trans can be had for <$2k for many sources. Auto transmission is not ideal for me, but I'm considering the possibility as the vvti aristo transmission control computer included a manual mode shift lock-out function to allow up/down driver controlled shifting. Has anyone used, test fit, swapped, or even measured for fitment, etc one of these transmissions into a Z? My 260 will have a narrow 240Z style trans tunnel as well. Per wikipedia it's a A341E. Final drive documented there was ~3.91 which is close to the 4.10 z32 r200 I'm using. I understand there are manual transmission options / commercially available adapter plates / etc for the 2J but I'd like to explore the auto trans option first as replacement transmissions seem to be extremely cheap from importers (everyone wants a R154, V160, etc). Thanks in advance!

Mr. Hoke is a member on here. Try contacting him through his website or through the forums. What are your power goals? If sub 400, consider a z31/240sx (KA) 5 speed. Not as strong but will do the trick. Your OEM 4 speed or 5 speed bell housing can be machined to fit the stronger fs5w71c trans. I got a reasonable quote for the machine work with new bearing from Ermish racing. Here is some info: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/300zx-l28-transmission-adapter

Hi All, I'm in search of the threaded bracket that bolts to s13 240sx front spindles on the strut assembly. When doing the 240sx coilover swap, this part is not used and is replaced with a collar welded to the Z spindle. Please send me a PM.