jthom5147

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123937-techno-toy-tuning-gtx2-control-arm-and-tc-rods/

I think you're going to run into the same problem as the T3 GTX2 LCAs had by using that tie rod end. You'll get front wheel vibration.

I planned on doing it but moved away from an L series for my car. I'll still be using a hydrobooster but I'll probably be using a factory PS pump from the 7M I'm planning on going with. I bought a sn95 cobra (I think 2004) PS pump which I was going to make a bracket to mount to the L6 where the AC compressor went, run the hydrobooster from the same 04 sn95, and run an 04 sti power steering rack for the quick ratio. Still gonna do all that sans the 04 cobra pump on L6 motor.

Look around here http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/75500.100.htm I've used their ball and cup linkage rods. They fit OE Datsun ball posts, and have a nice retaining clip, and won't be cracked brittle plastic. They might have a cam, or something that'll work.

T3's webpage says their kit will work with any of the late model Nissan (and infinity) multi-link rear suspensions with a short nose diff. The kit can be pieced together and you can use a long-nose. The CVs end up being the weak link, so as mentioned the "strongest" of them is from the Z32TT or certain year Q45s. Depending on what you want out of the car, the 240sx ones might hold it. Z32-NA cars did come with a vlsd r200 and 5-bolt CV flanges. While not as strong as the 6-bolt r200 from certain Q45s or z32tt r230, the NA diff is cheap and plentiful where the other doffs are uncommon. JDM 240sx (180sx) diffs used 5-bolt flanges and are the same length as 240sx axles or early j30 axles: the swapping of which is commonly done by the 240sx crowd. The 240sx CV joints themselves are the weakest and IIRC aren't a true CV but are a tri-pod style u-joint akin to what's on the 280zxt. Spline counts vary at the wheel hub, so make sure your hubs match your CVs. I can confirm that Z32NA hub splines are the same spline count as 240sx. I find the 5-bolt CVs preferable due to how common they are. They're in several infinity models and Nissan models starting in the late 80s and there are versions with the same spline cuts at the z31t 4-bolt CVs used by the community for a long time now. Specifically the front axles from a Nissan D21 truck (forget the years) that are 5-bolt with 27spline center bars. Sorry I got a little off-topic

I'm curious if you got a chance to recount the splines?

I can't see anything specific. I've added some pics of my 260z OE r180 for reference.

Photos of 280z vs z32 NA r200 stub shafts.

Hopefully some of the following info help: NA Z32 diffs are 29 spline VLSD. They are very common and inexpensive. A pic of the longer spline shaft is attached. I found a thread on club-s12 about swapping an Early M30 diff with a v6 200sx diff. Im not sure which is which I'm the pictures, but one of them clearly has the pinion sensor. ABS, VSS, or Traction Control? Dunno. Club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=19231.0 Edit: the first post in that thread says the pinion sensor is from the M30 diff.

I can confirm VLSD units spin the same direction and not opposite directions like an open diff does. A VLSD in a long nose sounds like a shiro, but is most likely a swap that z31 guys do.

We all have our opinions and motivations for/against buying bolt-on parts, and our reasons for looking elsewhere. Can we not derail this thread further? Take your off-topic needs / issues to the group buy / vendors / classified forums, please? Thanks

Joe, I wanted state that I'm certain your parts and business are of good quality. My starting this thread was done absent maliciousness or intent to undermine you or your business, but simply to share knowledge with the community and start a discussion.

I did try that already. All of the vendors are just that... vendors. I called Marlin Crawler, Yukon gear/axle, and I think one other and got dead ends. Worth another shot?

NP. PM me if something changes.

If you wanna pay shipping, I'll give mine to you since I won't be using it. The link for the source is in the posts above.

The diameter of the hole could be smaller than the Datsun unit by a little. But clearance for the stub axle threads is going to be a challenge, perhaps additional spacer for the CV axle plunge?

I'm super excited that you've been able to validate the suspicion on the spline compatibility. Follow-up questions then: 1)Given an idea of the modifications required to make it interchangeable with the OE unit, would anticipated machining costs make this option cost-neutral or cost-prohibitive to other options that have been available to the community for years such as Chequered Flag Joe / Modern Motorsport? 2)Would the reduction in material around the splines (both from design and further rework) weaken the component to the point of inferiority to the OE unit? 3)Is the flange large enough to be practical for use with common CV options? 930, z31t, etc. I'm sure these are all questions to be figured out as the research continues.

I did stick an axle through it. Snug fit. That's where the grease on the tip of the flange in the photos came from.

I couldn't find my calipers and had to put my daughter to bed. I took some photos though.

This is the one I bought: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Toyota-FJ-27-Spline-Pinion-Flange-Yoke.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=515&t_pt=7940&t_pn=G%2F290-2058M Been sitting in my shop for more than a year untouched. I'll get my calipers out and take measurements. Timken offers a grease seal that looks like a replacement for the OE grease seal, but with a narrower inner race diameter. I gave my set of 280z stub axles to my dad, so RE-measuring the necessary "throat" removal for spline engagement and the stub axle nut threads won't be as simple, but If I remember right it was to cut off about 1/2 inch. I don't have machining equipment, so I was goofing with a grinder and a mock-lathe.

I had a hunch that the differential gearing would mess things up. Seems logical though that the input and output of the differential gear would see completely different forces. I'll call a couple manufacturers and ask about design requirements, alloy/construction, and tempering. Only way I can think of to test it would be to set it up and then break it in as controlled a manner as possible... adding incremental weights to a lever arm to apply increasing torque until failure? Drop weights onto a level arm to simulate shock, increase till failure?

I want to start off by saying: 1) I'm not an engineer 2) Im not a mechanic by trade 3) if this idea is absurd, which it most likely is, then great.... but I'm trying to start the discussion to understand then WHY it's absurd. I had been working on my axle setup for a while, not being able to stomach the $ for quality companion flanges, so I did some google searching and found a commercially available 27 spline pinion flange(available from multiple manufacturers and sources). I bought one because research and the spline shape and diameter match the 280z stub axles that I have lying around. It's not a direct fit with the OE 4-bolt u-joint companion flange though. The OD where the grease seal is a few mm smaller than the OE unit. Don't have exact measurements in front of me. If i am looking at the z rear bearing assembly correctly, the companion flange isn't a bearing surface, so the reduced diameter wouldn't change anything mechanically? Just require different seals. And the throat for the splines is longer. This could be overcome through modifications? At $40-60ish each, I can muck up 10 before I've gone through a pair of good quality ones. Here is one example http://www.coreswest.com/blank-toyota-flange-fits-27-spline-pinion-and-transfer-case-trail-gear/ So, in short, using a pinion flange as a axle companion flange.Thoughts?

Looking for a STi R180 LSD differential. I'm in SoCal. Not interested in shipping. Would prefer 3.9, but interested in other ratios. CLSD or Torsen considered. If you have 05-07 STi rear axles, I'm interested in a pair. Torn boots are ok.

Appreciate the feedback. I'm sorry you read my post incorrectly.

Pretty sure no one who responded understood the OP.... OP, have you tried calling Joe who's selling them through Chequered Flag website and Modern Motorsports? He might be able to give an ETA on the next available. Group buy might work too. It's a pretty expensive niche part, so I hope you're able to find one soon!