jthom5147

Not sure what they “should be”, but here are some measurements from a 280z r200 and a z32 vlsd NA.

Sounds like TPS.

I’m looking for ideas and suggestions for an auxiliary electric water pump for my RB25 swap. The engine comes with an oil-water cooler that circulates engine coolant routed towards the heater core. I’d like to run a separate water pump and front mount heat exchanger to run cool water just for the oil cooler and for the turbo water lines (perhaps for expansion to other fluid-fluid cooling options later, like a diff cooler) looking for ideas for a small electric water pump to circulate warm coolant, a couple gpm is probably ok.

If you’re restoring then the answer is the numbers matching block. if you’re building a fun car to look like stock then there’s no replacement for displacement.

I cant seem to open your attachment. what you remove depends on what your swap includes; you’ll need to decide that. E.g the stock RB alternator is internally regulated so the external one isn’t needed.

You can find an oil filter that has a bypass, or your local auto parts store clerk can help you with that. You can run without a bypass, but a filter failure will likely cause further problems that the bypass protects against. I don't have an L28et to inspect, but I can confirm the L28et factory cooler has a bypass built in that allows oil to bypass the filter but not the oil heat exchanger. I can confirm that the RB25 from the factory has an extra oil passage as shown on your L series picture. The RB25det passage is also blocked because the bypass valves are in the cooler assembly and the RB25de passage is not blocked and contains a bypass because it doesn't come with a factory cooler.

Newzed is right, any play at all is very bad when talking about wheel mounting. I went on a trip once and the group I was with was towing a brand new utility trailer. The hub had been painted before the wheels were installed and torqued. After about 500 miles the paint had been crushed / worn away allowing enough space for the wheel to wobble back and forth, making more space. Eventually the wheel ripped itself off the hub and taking the wheel on the 2nd axle with it.

An out of balance wheel generally vibrates at a certain speed due to harmonics. if the wheel can move while bolted to the hub, your hub is loose or your suspension is loose. that would mean the rear hub bearings are bad or your suspension is not properly attached (worn bushings, loose attachment hardware). you may also have a worn U-joint, but I would expect that to more be like a “bump” or jolt when transitioning between acceleration / deceleration. Edit: worn wheel bearings could contribute to the “dragging brake shoe” and uneven tire wear.

The metal? Not really, unless it was broken during handling. The coating / insulation? Absolutely. A short in the coil wires could cause spark issue. A bad ground as well.

Some ideas: check plugs for fuel fouling. check ignition coil wiring to see if you swapped some around and it's trying to fire out of order. more details could help.

That can't be right or they're feeding you BS / CYA. They all say it will fit an '84 to '89 300ZX which is a longnose. E.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-ATB-Helical-LSD-Differential-For-91-98-240SX-Silvia-200SX-84-89-300ZX-Z31/232355813843? They may have told you that because 10mm bolts, but that can be shimmed as I mentioned or as discussed in the install thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/

Posted Today, 06:08 AM Maybe the question I should have asked is, Where do I purchase an OBX differential for an Open R200 Longnose? I have looked all over the internet, but am a little skeptical that what I am seeing will work with a R200 Longnose. If you have any tips for me, that would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance! You buy them on EBay or Amazon, but they may be available elsewhere. Fitment will be required. Depending on whether you're using a 10mm bolt ring gear, 12mm bolt ring gear, and axles will dictate how much additional fitment is required besides following FSM. i recommend checking R&P wipe pattern and backlash BEFORE and after installing the carrier to check for differences. If you want longevity, a rebuild of the OBX carrier will be required. Follow the documentation online regarding bolts, helical gear direction, and washer stacks. Parts are available from a vendor ( not from OBX) I suggest you refresh your differential housing while you're at it (pinion bearings, carrier bearings, seals, lubricant) Follow the FSM when installing the carrier or outsource it to an appropriate professional

I ended up going with a Freddy.

Hi everyone, I was hoping to solicit ideas, examples, or suggestions for intakes to use on my build. I have a set of finned valve covers that I would like to use to make the RB swap look retro in the Z, but I don't want to clutter the top of the engine with the stock intake plumbing so I would like to go with a forward facing throttle body. I've been scouring google images looking for one that I like that would fit the stated theme, but nothing has caught my eye yet. I've seen the greddy / greddy-style intakes but the pronounced teardrop doesn't appeal to me. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Looking for a retro / oem appearance.

Multiple Post

Multiple post

No, the AWD trans is the same as the DET 5MT RWD trans with a different tail shaft and a transfer case ...Which is why you can use an AWD bell housing with a Z32 5MT gears and tail shaft with shifter mods. There are some parts conserved though but mostly just ancillary stuff: the shifter is the same between the non z32 transmissions, the clutch fork and TOB (need to confirm TOB fitment with clutch but the collar fits right) are the same, and I've read that the 350z slave is a direct fit to rb25det 5mt, but I have yet to confirm. Bear in mind that buying an AWD block complicates the swap as the oil pan has to be resolved and requires a custom rear sump made. The AWD block has a wider oil pan flange and different pickup from RWD. Pat1 who modified my RWD pan makes a rear sump AWD compatible pan, and to my knowledge he is the only one that does.

I have an SX throttle body with spacer that I'm not using. PM me

I bought one that I won't be using (was doing L but switched to RB).

There are several options: -- CD00X adapter. Per my previous conversations with McKinney Motorsports, there have been quality issues with some of these. YMMV. -- RB25DET trans. I bought one for $800 on ebay. $200 shipping. no issues. -- RB25DET / RB26 bell housing (for AWD trans or RWD 5MT) with Z32 or 87-89 Z31T 5MT. Needs shifter mods. The shifter mods are available through McKinney and other vendors. The bell housing can be purchased independently through RawBrokerage. -- RB25DE / RB20DET 5MT. Not as strong. Essentially same trans as KA24 (and early Z31 5MT). -- RB25DE / RB20DET bellhousing with KA24 trans. Trans is ~2 inches longer so it sits farther back in the trans tunnel. The VG bell housings won't mate to the RB block, but the 300ZX transmissions will mate to the companion RB bell housing as mentioned above. I have an RB25DE trans available for sale if you're interested. Located in SoCal.

If you jump through hoops and severely limit what you do with your car, there is an exemption to the visual inspection through CA HSC 44011©.

http://klearz.com/products/datsun/240z/240z_tail_lights

Other than that, T3 has a set for $500. Motorsport Zstore has a set for $900. Unless I misread Klearz website regarding not producing the Z lenses (which were $300 the set anyway), those are the only options I know of.

Found this. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Tail-Lamp-Assembly-w-Amber-Signal-Light-1-Set-Fits-70-73-Datsun-240z/252839101035?_trkparms=gclientid%3DqT3bts-TeRMtZGW3hH9QOs4P7D0Qwz7Oz6O1XmiQZ9FHRvYh9_VMnwbgwilbevse&_trksid=p2380231.m4335.l8656

You need the amber lower lenses?