jthom5147

This thread can be locked, I obtained one. Thanks everyone for the comments!

Sorry, didn't know the history and used the photo as an example. My friend gave me a new in box datsun comp. one A few years back and when I sold my last car he asked for it back, I agreed then forgot to remove it. Been guilty for a while and looking for a replacement. Thanks for the comments, I'll look around and see what I can find. If someone has one though, let me know

EDIT: This thread can be locked, I obtained one. Thanks everyone for the comments! Looking for a replacement BRE / Datsun Competition rear sway bar. See example picture. This is a rear-mounted sway bar that was mounted to replacement rear control arm drop mounts. Send me a PM if you have one available.

For $1000 more you could buy a complete r230 swap from TTT. There are a wide array of gearset ratios across the shortnose r200s which also work with the TTT swap. If you fabricate well, they sell the kit itemized so you can use what you want from it and reduce cost. Other home brew shortnose swaps have been discussed ad nauseum in this forum. I looked at zzcjdm and their website listed $2300. I was looking at "Motorsport Auto" aka thezstore. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/20-1732

Also, you can buy a long-nose gear set from Kameari USA in a 3.154.... for ~$1700. http://www.kameariusa.com/r200-differential-gear-set/ Motorsport sells these gear sets in the other ratios, you might be able to order it through them. @socorob: No idea. You could use a modified 3.36 longnose in an s30 fitted with a vlsd center. refer to this guide: http://www.xenonz31.com/vlsdInstall.html

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=267957 Have you read through this thread? The R&P ratio is 3.13 but it's a short-nose r200.

As far as I know it's the same stub for open r200s.

Anyone looked at these? http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/r180-stub-with-porsche-930-108mm-cv-mount STI splines to porsche CV

Would you be able to take pictures and measurements of your VLSD stub shafts? Would like to see how they compare to my z32NA VLSD stubs.

Im trying to use a r200 from a NA Z32, and it has the same problem. It uses the 5 bolt flanges though. I'm looking at using WD21 pathfinder v6 axle shafts to make hybrid axles. The center bars on the pathfinder axles have the same spline count and splined section profile as the z31 turbo axles. This has been documented previously in order threads and forums, some modification is required to the axle shaft to get the inner race from the z31t outer CV joint to stay on the shaft. Ideally, I'd like to see a companion flange get produced that uses the 5 bolt design at the wheel instead of the 4 and 3x2 (z31t, z31, and 280zxt styles) as the 5 bolt seems to be much more readily available than the other two which are becoming increasingly rare. I'm checking to see if the inner races on the z31t, z32NA and z32tt are similar aside from the splines and could therefore be interchangeable.

Yup. It bugs me that when they sell the axles they tell you that it meets all manufacturer's specs, but that's a lie.

It's been mentioned in other threads before: The replacement units sold by parts stores are z31 axles and are incorrectly marked as fitting a 280zxt also. However, you might be able to disassemble the one you bought and rebuild your axle, but the axles I bought from Napa and kragen were not able to be disassembled (diff-side cv joint is stuck on and no matter how hard I bang on it it won't come off, short of breaking the cv cage)

I hope your project goes well. Again, I still advocate treating it like a project ( with a budget, defined timelines, scope, etc) I did all of that as best I could with my first car and I overshot my budget by about $1500 due to unforeseen problems, expenses, and scope creep. Even though I was happy with how the swap turned out and other things I did do, I was unhappy with the car because I had cut corners when I shouldn't have and used an imperfect chassis to begin with. I ended up losing everything because I had cut corners on other aspects of the car and gone for the L28ET swap when I should have spent it on drivetrain. My new car is no longer a DD that I have to juggle keeping on the road and can do it right from the ground up, and hopefully won't kill me like the last one tried to.

Compare the 720 stub in the linked picture compared to Viva's. Viva's has next to no step down in his picture. Viva's 240z stub has a step down. Viva's 240z step down looks the same to me as the datsun stub in the link AND the 720 stub in the link. I.e. the 720 stubs in the link and from viva don't look similar.

I did find this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/55608-r160-to-r180-510/ See image 1 at post 8.

I brought up the R200 vlsd stubs at a length reference, not in relation to the diameters or spline counts.

I've never heard of an R180 VLSD, especially one with bolt-in stub shafts. I can take a picture of my 280z r200 stubs and my n/a z32 vlsd stubs next to each other and you can see the length difference required in order to engage the vlsd unit. It doesn't look like what is originally posted. The diameter difference is weird. To confirm, the 720 and 240 stubs are both 27 spline, and the splines on the 720 stubs are 0.080" larger diameter? Can't tell accurately from the picture as visually they look the same dimensions.

Save your money. Learn the fundamentals of automotive work by keeping that datsun running while you spend your money on college. When you can realistically save $1000/mo, then consider delving into that kind of a project.... because that $2500 won't get you very far. An engine laying around your parents house and no money left over is useless at best, more likely contentious. Yeah, that's not the answer anyone wants to hear. But realistic project planning and a pragmatic attitude goes a very long way. << Speaking from experience.

Check your R180s. Most R180K ring gears sets are of a different size than the early R180 (non-k). See this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ "In addition to the bolt in axle issues, there is another difference between early and late R180s. Early R180's measure 110mm inside the ring gear. 77 and later model year R180s measure 115mm inside the ring gear. This minor change means that the ring and pinions won't swap between the early and later models. If you have an early diff you must use an early carrier, and if you have the later diff you must use a later carrier. It is possible to use a early carrier on a later ring gear with a spacer, but that is outside the scope of this thread." You counted the splines on your R180 diff side flanges and they were 25? I thought all R180 center gears were 27 spline, and R160s from 510s etc were 25 spline. Or are you confusing the stub axles (wheels bolt to the stub axle) which are 25 splines on the 240Z?

I don't believe the sti came with a flange. IIRC, sti came with a diff-side extending cv joint that plugged directly into the diff and a wheel-side fixed cv joint that was splined and extended through the wheel hub like most (all?) modern IRS vehicles. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/73182-subaru-sti-r180-differential-and-axle-conversion-revised/ See that link for a thread using the sti axles, with modded wheel-side cv joint and shortened center bars. Edit: the WCR axles are designed to bolt to the stock 4 bolt stub shaft pattern used on the Ujoint half shafts. It's the same pattern as on the stub axle companion flange and r200 stub shafts and earlier 240z r180 stub shafts. R200 stub shafts don't work cause 29 splines not 27 splines. R180 stub shafts don't work cause bolt-in not circlip. The stub shafts sold by WCR are very high quality, have the 27 splines to fit in the r180, and are clip in so no diff conversion is necessary. For your power goals, oem r180 would be fine but if you're not doing the diff work yourself it won't be that much more expensive in the long run to save your $ on diff work to convert to bolt-in stubs and just buy the better product WCR stubs

If you're interested I have an 07 STI diff (3.9 CLSD) with ultra-low miles that I would part with if you're interested. I'm in San Diego / Riverside Counties in SoCal. It's still in the box from the dealer. As far as stubs and using WCR cv axles, you could use the stubs that WCR sells separately. You could convert the diff to buttons and bolt-in axles and use nissan OEM stub shafts, not sure which model z they came in, but my 260z doesn't have that style. Or you could go unconventional. The driveshaftshop sells a r180 stub with 930 bolt pattern, but I don't know its quality or if it'll work with the WCR cv axles. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/r180-stub-with-porsche-930-108mm-cv-mount Front diff r180s from early 80s pick-ups have a stub shaft that might fit in the diff, some people have played with those. Try searching that. I think the cv bolt pattern is 2x3 with tripod style joints. I've also read that people have used 80's maxima cv axles, swapped the center shafts with 280zxt cvs, and used modified companion flanges. Ymmv

I do not have measurements available but please note that from information reported on this site the ring and pinion combo cannot be swapped between old r180s and the "K" r180s found in the subarus. This is in regards to the inner diameter of the ring gear: 110mm vs 115 mm. See here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50499-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount-faq/ But I'm sure you gearset manufacturer will take that into account during design. Edit: although Google just told me that a newer Xterra came with an r180 with a 3.13 R/P. It looks like a short nose, but might be good as a reference.

Regarding torquing of the pinion flange nut, you could try a hybrid of your methods 1 and 2. 1: Assemble the subaru diff with datsun pinion flange 2: While the differential is on the workbench, lock a pry bar between the bolts on the differential stub (output) shaft flanges. If you need something to keep it still, consider using a piece of scrap flat-bar with holes drilled to keep it from falling out. 3: The pry bar interference with the workbench should keep the differential from rotating while torquing.

For some reason I chose not to take the beaten path in doing my 260Z LSD / CV conversion. I think I think I've scoured every thread talking about CV conversions using 280ZXT, Z31T, Pathfinder Axles, etc trying to find specs and dimensions for shaft spline count, bolt patterns, etc. So far in all of my reading, other than being referenced as the "4-Bolt" CV, I have not been able to find dimensions of the CV flange face, specifically: --Pilot diameter = A --Flange Major diameter = B --Bolt pattern dimensions = C, D, R See Picture for reference. Image Credit: http://lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion_files/240Z_Conversion_Rear_End%20_Upgrade_files/image013.jpg If anyone has or is able to measure these dimensions, it would be greatly appreciated before I buy and while currently scouring craigslist for some of these elusive CV axles. Thanks in advance, James

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5007257086.html Subaru R180 "K" 3.9 LSD from a 2005 STI. Not my listing but bought one Saturday. Diff was next-to-new in factory box not pulled from a junkyard. YMMV