m1noel

Who's pretending?????

I used a two speed ford fan from John's, I really don't know what is was for, but it fit the JTR radiator really well. I used the leads from the pcm to trigger two relays, one for each speed on the fan. Cools really well even in 100 degree heat with the AC on. And you can PM me anytime- might notice it quicker that way. Mike

Used the vss high BU/WH for the + Used the vss low BN/RD for the - Worked great- Good luck Mike

All I know is that everywhere I have been since I read this post, I have been looking for that trailer. And I'm in Idaho. Hope it turns up. Mike

I agree on the ducting-and I'd never noticed the one fuel rail cover look, kind of a Michael Jackson one glove thing Joey?

That same car shows up in a couple more episodes.

I used the fan/shroud from John's. I'm sure It could be had cheaper but it flows really well and fit the JTR radiator perfectly. Wow, your swap is really looking good. Mike

Dude, I don't blame you Glenn, I had to get some help with mine too. I just didn't get it until I watched Brandt for a while. Now it seems easy. And we are not alone. He works for every hot rod and custom shop in this area, and thats all he does, is wire cars. You might check in your area and see if there is anyone out there like that. Mike

Mine is just forward of the driver side shock tower, where the coil used to be. The GTO is pretty much in the same place. MIke

The switch grounds either the high or low beams. If there is a break somewhere between the headlamps and switch it can't. I had a problem in the connection on the firewall inside the car, passenger footwell near the trans hump. The old leaking heater core had corroded the connection and was not letting the low beams ground out through the combo switch. I would check a wiring diagram and follow it back from the lamps through the switch before going to the expense of a new switch. Mike

Ah, this one I can post to- congrats on the new purchase, looks like a great place to start a new project. Mike

The CableX wont work through the PCM. Use the 17 teeth number and hook the box up directly from the trans. It works great. After my initial set up I figured I was off like 12 percent, using the book I just multiplied by that 12 percent, used their settings, and bingo, right on. MIke

looking at tiltons site it depends on which series master you use. Some are -3, some are -4. The 74 and 75 series are -3 I believe. Mike

Cyg, Glad you found out what happened and that it won't cost you a bunch of dollars or un-needed parts to fix. A whole lot of us will sleep and drive (hopefully not at the same time) way more comfortably now. Mike

I'm with you. I used the factory harness and added a few fuses and relays as needed to intigrate the two. Painless has all that stuff included though as to make it "painless" for a little more dough. Mike

That is really looking good. I have always liked the looks of your car and I know you are gonna love the new engine. Can't wait to see more pics and maybe a vid or two. It should all come together pretty fast now. Mike

Did you happen to take any pic's. A couple of guys on here (because the instructions are sometimes hard to understand) have tried to put them where they don't belong. I had to read the instructions several times, and look at some of the pics on this thread, but when I figured it out the JCI parts went right in. Mike

That is one UGLY, fast car. Mike

[quote= Here is the clutch master cylinder I am looking at on Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-TILTON-3-4-MASTER-CYLINDER-W-RESEVOIR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33566QQihZ008QQitemZ180182862572QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Its a 3/4 though, I dont know how that would work for me. That will work, it looks like the 74 series, and you won't be able to use your washer bottle in the stock location with it. The 75 series has the same bore and stroke but is shorter. Mike

when you say stock master cylinder, do you mean Z or GTO. The Z cylinder is only 5/8", so no. The GTO one works great but I had problems with them leaking. I used the 75 series tilton with a 90 degree adapter and the supplied adapters from tilton to go directly into the GTO lines. The reason for the 75 series with the 90 is so I could still use the stock washer bottle. I would also get rid of the old fulible link setup and install fuses. Do you have a fan/shroud yet. I used the JCI set up with the JTR radiator and it works very well. Good luck, Mike

$2300 in November 1982. Mike

Yeah, that "produced" video has been around a long time. Very funny!

You won't be sorry! And you should be driving your LS1 long after a 4banger turbo anything becomes a boat anchor. Mike

I don't know much, but I do know this. I have the louvers on my car and my rear carpet stays in great shape compared to the other Z's I have owned without them. Also, If I don't get my hatch latched, it will open fully at almost exactly 80mph-lift! Don't know if that happens without the louvers though. Mike

Geez Boy, Can't YOU just make your own? Mike