m1noel

Guy, Ain't it fun just to be out driving the thing? The way it sounds, by the time you get it tuned up, the neon owner will be able to provide a very good description of your tail lights and exhaust outlets. Mike

And you may have power to the lights, and still not work because the switch does not send power to the lights, it provides the ground. One of the places that is easy to lose the ground is at the firewall connection in the passenger side footwell. If you have ever had a leak in the heater core it has a tendancy to drip there causing corrosion at that plug. Like Braap said- just start testing it out and see where you lose power. Good luck, Mike

I think the JCI kit is worth the bucks due to the engineering he put into it. You know it will work. The thought of putting adapters on adapters scares me a little. Mike

Piston- That does look really nice, and I too like the looks of that intake-better than the LSx Mike

I agree, something isn't right. Mine idles at 750, runs 2000 at 75. My 6th is .57. There were at least 4 different 6th gear ratios in the T56. I would guess that your tach is off. Mike

Mike, Yes the exhaust changed. I had a header with 2 1/4 inch pipe with a single muffler on the L6. I used your Sanderson headers with 3" pipe with a Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow muffler. I don't know what that weighs, but I know it is quite a bit more. The Y pipe is past the trans so there is quite a bit more pipe too. Mike I guess that just the mounting kit also adds some weight on the front. It was not light.

I believe you can easily change the ECM program for the Manual. I can do mine with my predator. Mike

Justin- State scales, same ones both times (they leave them on when they are closed-very handy). Cygnus- I know several ways to lose some weight and the bumpers would be the first to go. I just wanted to see the results of the engine/trans swap. Mike

So, I finally got around to weighing the Z today. I weighed it just before I started the swap, and was hoping with the aluminum block and such to lose a little poundage. I had removed the fuel injection from the old L28 and replaced that with SU's many years ago. I am still running AC, still have full 280 bumpers, etc. so the difference is purely from the engine/trans swap. I filled up at the same gas station and drove directly to the scales so the tank would be as close to the same as possible. Before- L28 with 5sp Front 1400 Rear 1420 After- LS2 with T56 Front 1480 Rear 1520 I knew the T56 was much bigger/heavier than the old 5 speed, but I thought the engine to be lighter, and with a lighter radiator I would be a little lighter on the front axle. And it feels lighter on the front just driving around town. I still love driving the thing, it just surprised me a little. Mike

What Ulises and quick240 said.... And welcome to the LS club. Mike

I don't know about the LT1, but on my LS2 the sender is in the drivers side head. Mike

Sound great Clive, kinda familiar. Congrats Mike

I ran 15X8 1/2's on my 78 for autox. Fit fine in rear, used 1/2 in spacer in front. I still have them and am thinking about new 17's and 18's (rear). I'll only go 7" in front but will go 8 or 8 1/2 rear. Mike

Have had a few, but this 78 I bought in 1982. Put a 76 head, headers, and SU's on it with some suspension tweeks in '87. Stripped completely winter of 05-06 for new paint and interior. Did the LS2/T56 conversion this last winter. Too much fun. Mike

Mine went in fine. Only had to "massage" for the reverse switch. Reverse lock-out is hooked up and working. Tight fit but not touching the tunnel. The trans is as high as is will go. Mike

I have only about 1500 miles so far. Only problem is a leak in the AC somewhere, I keep losing my cool. I really need to weigh it so I can post the before/after. And I need to find time to get to the track. Mike

Sergio, I enjoyed your vids, looks strong and pretty consistant for not having a reliable tach. I still haven't had time to get to the track, but have been getting some good street miles on. Thanks again for all the help you and Mike gave me. Mike

I agree with most everything said above. I have a very good set of tools, plenty of room, etc. I read and studied for almost two years, ordered stuff for 3-4 months, then started. After the first couple of long days, one to get the L28 out and prep for paint in the engine bay, and one to set the new engine in place, I only worked on it for an hour or two at a time. Just pick one thing at a time to do and do right. That kept me married and the frustration level low. And the job took about half the time I figured it would. And it is so much fun to drive. Good luck, Mike

A car that beautiful deserves better beer. Mike

Hey, your engine sounds great Dale- Geezers Rule. Mike

I used the CableX box from Abbots. Just wire it up to the speed sensor on the trans, hook the cable up to the speedo, set the dip switches acccording to the included instructions, and it works. Mike

I second the CableX, works perfectly, very accurate according to my GPS after set up. Mike

Use the search function to find all the help I got from Mas280. There really isn't a "how to", but it really isn't that hard if you have the pin outs. Just eliminate all the stuff you don't need and solder up the stuff you do. Mike

Nice job so far Clive, you are making great headway. You'll be cruising before you know it.. Mike

From the pics it looks like you are using the older LS1 computer- many swaps are doing this- that is why it thinks it is an 03. The LS1 can be upgraded to run the throttle-by-wire and a lot of hot rod shops are using the older computer because the software for the newer ones are just now coming out and everyone has the software for the ls1. As long as it us programmed right you won't have any problems. There are a several aftermarket cruise controls that will hook into your computer that wouldn't require the GM column, but you would still have to install the brake and clutch switches. They are pretty inexpensive, I have been thinking about putting one in. Mike