Canadianz

Yeah hopefully this year we'll make some more of the OZC events too, last year we basically only got to z fest and the swap meet, but thatll have to change! Hows your 26 coming Quentin? That just reminded me, does anyone know where to find the nismo fpr bypass elbow? We need one so that we can use the aeromotive regulator with the stock fuel rail. Thanks guys, Rob.

Amazing stuff guys, I thought Id post up some of my photos from the various diving trips we have been on. Some Pics from the Florida Keys A interesting fish from the creek out back Ice Diving 2006 Some cool Bubbles Hope you guys like em ! Crombie Brothers

Hey guys, so with school and all its been pretty busy, although we have managed to get some work done on the weekends, although most of the work has been spent on figuring out the wiring harness/ fixing the old Z harness, as well as getting some custom fittings for the turbo oil lines, basically little things overall. We cut the manifold up and welded the flange back on so that the turbo would sit just a little farther away from the valve cover. New lines were also bent up and covered in some heat shielding sleeve that we got from a local hydraulic store We also fitted some new large diameter (3/4" I think) oil drain lines for both the head and the turbo, they're hydraulic lines so they're meant to withstand pretty high temperature, and then just to be sure we covered them in the heat wrap (its like $2.50 a foot so we used it liberally) It will be wired on when we're finished, the zip ties are just there to get an idea for how everything should be. Also, the maf looks close to the headers but its just the way its sitting right now, and it will eventually be farther up front. overall though the car doesnt look like too much has been done, there was alot of time spent into the wiring harness which still has to be finished. Here's where the car is at so there's still a lot to be done, but its coming! -Rob

Just a tip, instead of using exhaust from your car, I would recommend using pure C02. The easiest way is get one of the 20 ounce cylinders that are used for paintball and vent it into the gas tank. CO2 will not burn and has the benefit of being slightly visible as a fog so you can see any pinhole leaks in your tank at the same time. Another alternative would be shielding gas from a mig welder, again non-flammable although probably more expensive. Welding gas tanks is safe is done correctly but a deathwish otherwise.

Just a thought, if the HKS is a really tight fit you might want to look into a ebay tubular header, I got one for about 200$ and it seems pretty good. I had to do some small adjustments to it to get it to fit up right but after that it was all good. If you got a top mount it might be easier to fit it in. Good luck Chris

I posted it for more of a reference, the IAAC valve and some of the coolant hosese get pretty confusing down there. Its nice to have real photos of were the hoses are routed, as in the owners manual the pictures are tiny and hard to see. Any how hopefully sombody finds it useful, as Evan said its more of an overview than a step by step.

Hey guys thought this might be useful, It really helped out with some of the plumbing concerning the IAC valve etc for me, excellent write up with lots of pics. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/to-Greddy-style-Plenum-t181826.html hope it helps !

Just to throw in my two cents worth, I think this swap would be pretty cool, expensive but cool. The intended goal for your car sounds like you want something light and fast that revs well too. A cheaper alternative would be one of the 20 valve 4's that the toyota boy's put in there AE86's ... if you bought something like that then you'd save a bunch of money that you could then throw into a small turbo or something. While it wouldn't be Vtec it still would be nice and streetable off boost. Also it would be just as original. The S2k engine is pretty stout and turboing it would be a good bang for your buck too, there was a drift team that was featured in Super Street or Sport Compact car that dropped the F20C with a turbo into their 240sx, as they were blowing up too many SR20's. I guess it comes down to if you have the cash do it, then laugh at everybody who said you couldn't or it was a bad idea, when its done, there might be more cost effective ways too but who knows.

Hey man I found a post over on an Auzzie Skyline forum that will really help you, I just swapped my intake over too its a real pain to do as the manual is very confusing, any way enjoy. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/to-Greddy-style-Plenum-t181826.html

Hey guys, Just wondering what sort of fittings you used on the oil and coolant lines for your turbo ? I have a RB25det I'm running a T3/T4 hybrid, but Im having trouble finding some sort of adapter that will replace the banjo fittings on the block. I want to run a 3/8ths hardline for the coolant feed and a 3/16ths for the feed oil. Which is no problem off the turbo till I hit the block . . . Does anybody know what the thread pitch and style is of the of the oil feed, were the banjo went out of the block ? Similarly I need to figure out the thread style on the coolant feed too. Any ideas guys? What all are your running on your turbos ? Thanks the Crombie Brothers

how about 28,000 for a 77 280z? welcome to canada! http://www.canadatrader.com/result/detailinfo.aspx?ID=30592960&pgno=1&srt=1

Just a thought I think there is a thread on the TPS sensors and the swap to the Q45 throttle bodies, which is a popular mod. It might be an interesting topic to cover in the pdf. I also think it might be cool to have a list of e-mails and or phone numbers of shops which regularly stock the hard to get RB parts. Any how I think this is a great idea !

Your absolutely right Evan, Im going to have to do something about the turbo, the manifold i have is a cheap one so I figure Ill cut the turbo flange off, reposition and get my buddy to Tig weld it up. Its been really busy as of late with school and all so I haven't really had much time to do anything really, hopefully we can get it finished up over Christmas. We are also getting and r200 with the CLSD in a few weeks so Ill have to get a hold of you Jeff for the mustache bar. Any how Ill post some new pics and get a decent update on here soon.

Hey man I feel your pain, I switched to a big 90 mil TB too and Im not sure what sensor to use either . . . I have both the q45 and the stock rb sensor... Im going to use the q45 but im not sure how to wire it up either ....

Some more progress, painted up the engine bay and mocked up the intercooler and rad setup. A side view of the Cleaned up engine bay Our Brand New SS 3inch turbo back,with a resonator and muffler tig welded, Bling Bling Dash Progress, Autometer speedo, tach, Oil pressure, water temp and boost. The red switch will be an ignition kill and the little silver knob is a manual boost controller. Does any one know if this would mess up boost control ? In the installation guide it is supposed to go very close to the turbo, will the extra hose mess things up ? Any how enjoy, hopefully we can get more work done soon Cheers Chris and Rob Crombie

well then your best place to start would be taking a look at the interlock and making sure thats working properly. If you do try to take it apart, be careful as its usually under a fair bit of pressure and can sometimes fly out. Also, I don't know if this could cause it but the shift forks can mistakenly be flipped front to back as well

check the interlock, ive had that bind before, its a little ball bearing that sits between the two shift rails in the shift tower near the front of the tower. its possible it has seized, and locked your tranny out of second/third I rebuilt a t90 about a year ago for a 1952 ex military m38 that im restoring, it really is quite a simple tranny, and i remember if the interlock is left out your tranny can shift into 2 gears at once and destroy itself, and i also remember that if it doesnt have a spring, or the spring breaks, it can essentially turn into a perma-lock. either way, try reading this, these trannies are very simple and not hard to rebuild http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90RebuildGuide/T90rebuild.htm and if that doesnt help, you can contact Novak conversions, theyre great people that deal with these trannies all the timehttp://www.novak-adapt.com/ i guess you got a weird one though, usually these trannies just wont stay in second

Hey guys, I just did this exact trick last night, worked like a charm. My brother and I threw in 10 lbs and let it sit for 10 minutes before smacking the s$%@ out of the car with some rubber mallets. The tar just flew off it was awesome, a real good stress reliever for anybody who has ever tried welding on the Z only to have a tiny bit of tar gte in the weld and mess it all up. Anyhow great trick. Cheers Chris

If it is an external waste gate, it should be easy to cut and reweld the flange back onto your exhaust manifold in a manner in which is doesn't hit. Basically the wastegate is just a big metal dump valve on your turbo manifold, so there is no harm in re routing it a bit.

Defiantly if you have the money go for the surge tank, keep in mind you need a second pump, high volume low pressure to fill the tank as well as the tank and fittings itself. The sump works well from a couple people I know who have used it so I figured it is worth a shot.

I understand the concerns that large bore TB's may be overkill for some applications however lets remember its Hybridz and we are all about being over the top. I guess my beef is bench racing only goes so far and it would be pretty cool to see if there is any difference in performance or driveablity if one were to switch from a 60mm to a 90mm. Its just funny how alot of theoretical ideas seem good on paper but just don't work the same in the real world. Matt K seems to be doing nicely on his SR with the 90mm so who knows, and thats only a 2liter. In a few weeks I'm going to have my RB25det running with a 90mm TB on it like a couple other members on this site, so I guess Ill see then if its a pain to drive ... Cheers Chris

Just a thought, heres how I made a quick and dirty sump for my Dastun. Its a 71 and has absolutely no baffles except a single piece of sheet metal down the center. So some sort of protection is needed for your fuel system. What my brother and I did was first drain purge all the fumes out of our old tank, (fill with water and dry in the sun).Then cut slits in the tank where the sumpa was to cover , and bent out the metal to form "vee's" which point to the sump. This allows gas into the sump but not out as easily. The sump itself was made from an old oil pan sump so it was nicely shaped already. We welded a Tee 3/8ths fitting to the bottom and attached it to our new pickup (3/8ths)s and ran it out the original hole on the gas tank. After all this was done we welded the sucker up and heres the finished product. The ex-oil pan sump with the 3/8ths T in the bottom for the pickup tube. The V Slits and internal Pickup (ignore the rough cuts) The final Product minus paint Hope this gives you ideas

My brother and I mounted it the same way and didnt have a problem, we just went and got some nice long bolts to make they'd thread in all the way Rob Crombie

That Swain Coating stuff looks pretty attractive, I might look into it this winter, do any of you have much experience with header wrap or turbo socks ? Were on a bit of a deadline as we both go back to school in the fall so we want to get it done. Oh and here is a picture of the inside of the intake.

Hey guys, thanks for the input, I think the TB should be fine, there are alot of guys running q45 throttle bodies on the RB's and even SR's and they are 90mm's. Only time will tell I guess. As for the Manifold its a KU Engineering model from Thailand, they also made the TB, I got a decent deal on the combo and the fit is really nice too. We are planning on getting a blanket and a some wrap for the turbo and down pipe to keep er a litter cooler, we'll see. Ill should have some pics of the Rad and intercooler we are using too soon, I think I havea pic of the inside of the Intake too it has indivudual trumpets inside for each runner that should work nicely. Thanks for the support guys !