Canadianz

Hey All, So my brother and I just finished test fitting our RB25 into our 240, after months of rust repair. Went in like a charm and its really nice to be well on our way to completing this swap. I tossed up some pics of the mock-up as well as some clearance issues I would like a little bit of input on too. So if you guys have any advice for me I'd really appreciate it. I would also really like to thank you all for the help in this project, especially Bryan Williams And Rockie who stepped up with some sensors we desperately needed. This is the first swap my brother and I have ever done, besides a 52 willies Jeep we restored, so its kind of a big deal as he's only 18 and I am 21. To this point it has taken us about 4 months and counting. We hope to make it to Z Fest in Ontario for any of you Canadians, see you there ! ENJOY ! Heres the specs R33 RB25DET Hot tanked and polished head, with redone valves Stock Head Gasket ARP Head Studs Calico coated ACL race bearings RB20 rear sump oil pan and pick up Rick Wong moter mounts with Supra Isolators Chinese Top mount header w/ 40mm wastegate Custom T3/T4 50 a/r turbo with machined and ported housings Ebay Intercooler 90mm TB Ku engineering Intake Stock ECU and manual Boost Controller Aeromotive Fuel Reg BBK external High volume pump w/ 3/8ths line Sumped Gas tank Carbon Kevlar Clutch Lightened Flywheel AND Here are some pics ! The Recipient Before Body Work Please note undercoating and Passenger side Fender After oh say at least 100 man hours in welding, sand blasting and swearing, we patched up the interior and engine bay, this is before we primered it all. Nothing is worse than welding on that damn undercoat. . . Now the Fun stuff . . . Installing the head and Torquing it all down. . . In she Goes ! And In ! Problems . . . Any ideas if this is safe ? The hot side of our turbo is really really close to the valve covers. . this is just a mock up so there might be a wisker more room left to play in there . . . Then on the intake side similar problem... we may shift the engine orientation or take a scoop out of the fender. . not 100% yet .. any ideas ? Finally a close up of the Turbo... she's a doozy, don't mind the chinese housings, they have been ported and the guts are brand new from Garrett, with the littler serial plate etc... we got this all done at a local place we highly recommend. Thanks for looking ! Any Advice or problems you guys see, we'd love to have input. We are both pretty proud as we have done all the work ourself other than the actual machining of the engine itself. Cheers Chris and Rob Crombie

RoxZ

I have an R33 Rb25det it is currently in the shop getting the bearings etc done, so now would be a perfect time to throw in some restrictors. How many should I put in, I don't have the drain mod done and don't really plan on it either unless I have to. The engine is being prepared and set up to push around 350ish hp at the wheels. Everything is stock minus the bearings internally, which are ACL race bearings with Calico anti friction coatings and ARP head studs. I have an N1 oil pump too. Any how the question is how many restrictors should be installed and what internal diameter? I just read that they are any were from 1-1.5 m. So whats the general consensus on this ? Any body done it before ? The sooner I know the sooner It can get the Zed rolling.

I know alot of the repair centers for transport trucks carry 4 inch and up Vbands. I'd imagine they'd be SS or pretty tough if they are built to go on a Mack Truck. I plan on getting mine at a local carrier truck center. Might be any easy local source, and Im sure they would chuckle when you tell them you need a 4" v-band to go on a 2.6 liter inline 6!

I' representing the RB series, my brother and I are throwing a RB25DET with some toys in the 71 after the L26 gave up the ghost. It's defiantly not cheap (not that any swaps ever are) but sourcing stuff in Canada can be tricky. Were shooting for 350hp at the wheels so we figured a RB25 w/ a hybrid t3/t4 and some other stuff should get us there. The RB26 gets real expensive real quick when you have the extra turbo and all the plumbing too so we opted for a 25 w/ some toys. Hopefully see how she runs in the next month or so, while saving up for a standalone, probably wolf not too sure.

Sounds nice man ! You just gave me more inspiration to get rolling again on my Z. Your running a RB26 correct ? What A/F meter are you running and are you using the stock computer or whats up ? Any how great work man

I think this might do the trick if your looking for a crazy formula one sound. its not turbo'd buuut it has 8 individual throttle bodies !

Alright folks, Ive hit a slight issue while setting up my new maninfold. I bought a KU Engineering intake manifold with a 90mm throttle body. However, the throttle body seems to have the wrong fitting for the stock Rb throttle position sensor (TPS). The Rb TPS has a peg that sticks out and fits into the throttle body. However as you can see the throttle boddy I have is the exact opposite as the throttle body has a peg that goes into the TPS. Ive fired off some e-mails to the boys at KU and Im awaiting a reply. Can anybody Identify which sensor this is ? I think it might be off a supra .. which also probably wouldn't interface with the stock rb ecu. Any how sorry for the Ramble, if anyone has any ideas as to how I can get the throttle body to work I would appreciate input. My intake, note the ring and peg sticking up for the TPS sensor, any idea of what sensor it takes ? This is the sensor I think fits mine . . . I belive its off a last gen supra ...not hundred percent though Any ideas ? thanks

I figured I would have to represent the "Real Canadain Rusty Z" Currently getting the rust cut out and patched in preperation for the RB swap. and the patched version

Hmmm, Ive found the Rb25 to be a little on the expensive side, my brother and I got into the "while were at it" mode and the bills do add up N1 oil and water pumps etc . . . I would personaly go maby for the L28 and do the mega squirt and some injectors, that should satisfy. I think it would be really cool to see a Rb20 in a 240z, as said above a 8-9k redline is pretty cool. I guess go with whichever one you feel more comfortable with, as the Rb swap is fairly involved and will be more expensive for a straight drop in, mounts + new driveshafta at the least. Both awsome choices so good luck !

Hey man, I think there is a entire RB33 manual in pdf under the downloads section on this site. Have a look see.

Hey J. I think these are pretty much the same, I didn't relize you had posted them to. There a real life saver though, I find it funny I searched so many skyline/RB based sites to find em and to think they were on Hybridz.

Damn well I really hope thats not the case, what exactly was his set up when it happend ? Its funny as soon as the Intake arrived theres a bunch of negative comments. Oh well Im happy, I'll just have to find out myself and post how it works.

SHINY! The KU intake just arrived w/the big bore throttle body, 90mm! I have to test fit it tommrow or so then go from there, looks like good quality so far, Im impressed.

They seem to be good, some guys I know go to them for all their engines, mostly sr20s. When I visited them to ask about buying a rb25 then and there the owner was a bit surly and reluctant to help.. didn't give me the best feeling really, but I could have caught him on a bad day. Either way, they have a good reputation. I ended up picking up my rb25 at total jdm in Toronto. I'd highly reccommend them. http://www.torontojdm.com

Hey guys, I did a bit of searching looking for some manuals for the RB series engines. I found a couple in PDF form for free, they are in english too. Any how hope they help. Make sure you have adobe acrobat and when you go to download them it will take a while, there about 12 + mbs each. I found its often easier to right click on the desired manual link and "save link as" and open it later. These books are pretty intense at 280 pages or so each so you will probably want them printed at an actual print shop. Cheers Chris this one is best : http://www.mofomos.co.uk/Nissan_owners_clubs.php ok: http://www.esnips.com/web/skylinestuff

Thats hilarous, we have the same tractor at work, I think its a Massy 35. Too funny.

Thats looking really cool, I like that look alot. The rear-end is looking really good. Seeing as your doing all that body work have you thought of merging in a motorcycle style gas cap fuel door. I was thinking sort of along the lines of the ones on the newer vipers and eclipse, the silver flush ones. Just an idea, might help keep things smooth.

well for its settled for me. Maybe it was the shinyness but I have a ku intake on its way now, its also coming with a 90mm aluminum throttle body, with the proper flange welded on. I'll make sure to post pictures when it arrives, it will be interesting to see what it looks like up close!

Interesting... Well that is good news I really like the look of the KU's especially the idea of the velocity stacks inside the intake itself. What is the differnce between the real Greddys and the knockoffs ? Anything much or just the quality of the castings etc. . . ? Ive heard the Q45 TB's are a good upgrade. Thanks for the advice!

Apparently its a volkswagen bus with a 993 biturbo engine in it? http://www.race-taxi.ch/

Hey guys, I’m in the process of getting all the parts together for an RB25DET swap into my 71 240Z. I would really like to ditch the stock crossover intake manifold as a Greddy style would be much simpler to plumb the intercooler piping etc. Legitimate Greddys are running around 900-1000 usd from what I have seen on a couple sites and ebay. I have also seen "freddy or greedy" knock offs for less than half that price. I wondered if any one has had any experience with these units, most seem to come from Thailand or China. I have seen a couple of the JUN style aluminum types for sale too, and they look really nice, I just worry about quality. Has anyone had any experience with any of these or has any suggestions as far as intakes for the RB25DET. If the parts work I have no problem running a freddy as long as it works! Thanks Guys, Here are the links: KU Engineering (JUN) style here Another Jun Style here Freddy style here

Things are going slowly right now, just waiting for a 280zx dizzy to arrive. Its hard to pin down.. but i'm pretty sure its an electrical failure somewhere. I've borrowed a dwell tester, so im going to check the points with that, i have heard that the points style distributors have problems with the shafts not spinning perfectly straight, causing ignition timing between cylinders to get silly. so i guess ill see where that goes. I'll keep you guys posted!

We're thinking along the same lines, z bomb! Right now im waiting for a 280zx dizzy to arrive, I believe the problem lies in electrical now.. First of all, the caps do not fit very tightly on the dizzy, and they wiggle a bunch, (both the old one and the new one I bought) and this affects how the motor runs, although holding it on tightly doesn't make a large difference. And number two, I had planned on swapping the dizzy out anyways, and if its causing trouble now, why not eliminate it and start from the basics.. I also plan to check the resistance of the wires to check for corrosion/cracks and replace the grounds in the engine bay.. Now all i need to do is get the ambition to go out there and work on it! winter here is good for sitting inside where its nice and warm and brainstorming, but not so much for wrenching!