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Noddle

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Everything posted by Noddle

  1. I did mine like this http://noddle.clante...EDIS/index.html if I was to do it again, I would put the "pick up" inside the fan belt, (between water pump / alternator / crank pull ) it works very well Nigel
  2. I used this on my Pallnet rail Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant - 50mL no issues todate.. Nigel
  3. these ? http://www.efihardware.com/products/2004/Nissan-L-series-6-cyl-pro-series-kit-with-high-performance-Japanese-manifold-50mm
  4. Do a search for the EFI manual, this will tell you how to do a step by step test of the EFI system, The link I have is no longer valid, sorry Nigel I found this will looking at the other threads, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107398-how-to-check-if-ecu-is-good/page__view__findpost__p__1004777
  5. http://www.msextra.c...ra_Ignition.htm I'm running complete EDIS, but I can not do spark cut, I might look at waste spark controled by MSII
  6. MSII running the Extra code gives you 16x16
  7. I also had a leak with my Pallnet fuel rain and thread tape did not fix it, in the end I used a liquid thread sealer, it worked a charm Nigel
  8. Have you checked this more than once, on my Datsun 240K the clutch fan had locked, so I replaced it, and put the old one in my parts bin ( still had the blades on it ) I was looking some some bits a few months later, pulled the fan out of my parts bin, to get to stuff under it, and noticed that it span freely, Nigel
  9. clean the connector at the throttle body ( I believe ) it's got water in it.
  10. I run a MN47 on my L24e ( dished pistons standard) with Turbo, Intercoolers, EDIS, 440cc injectors, MS 2 extra, switchable between 7, 10 & 15 PSi at a click of a button, runs very well..
  11. I know on my dash board ( tuner studio ) I have a AFR correction gauge, so there it is recorded, I'm not sure what it's call, since I not at home.
  12. It's not a front sump, the drain plug is on the wrong side , Datsun 240K, MR30 Skyline are front sump.. Nigel
  13. originally it had a 161 ( I think ) running a 2 speed auto, back then I use to brag about getting 50 miles an hour out of first.. it was a 1961 XK Falcon, 250xflow, toyota 5 speed, Holden EH 308 diff, ( changeable centers ) on 13 inch hot-wire wheel, running 9 inch tires
  14. Not all of them had the type of gear I was talking about, the 3 I had, only 1 had the split gear. I ran it behind a ford 250 xflow with a castlemain bellhousing in my XK falcon
  15. I've seen this in a Toyota Steel 5 speed, about 20 years ago, but it was not a 1/2, 1/2 split gear, it was 1/4, 3/4 setup, ( I assumed it was to take up any slack / backlash ) Nigel
  16. Use 12 Volts, a few years ago I tried a "in car" firmware upgrade and I had problems because of lower than 12 volts, once I plugged it into a external 12 volt source it worded fine, as for running in my car, it worked fine ( 14 volts when running ), I just could not do a firmware upgrade. my 2 cents worth. Nigel
  17. Noddle

    4 ROTOR

    My understand of why these engines don't last, is mostly to do with the operator, ie, did you warm it up properly , and cool it down properly before shutting it off ? different metal expand at different rate, Nigel
  18. I'm sorry for insulting you. as for the cost to get "all lawyered up", court costs and the OP time, I think in the end, $50 for a second had set of towers would be the cheapest / easiest / most time saving solution, check it up to a learning experience, and never deal with the shop again.. Nigel
  19. Did you put some oil on the pin, where it fits in the piston, it may help
  20. You should write a book on all this useful information that is held in your head, I have a text file that I copy this stuff into, with the link to the source, and grouped into topics for easy finding, You do have a wealth of information, but some time it I find it hard to understand when you are been crypted about what you saying, especially when you start referring to 'sheep' lol Nigel
  21. mmm, not sure about the area you suggest to support the piston, from memory, you place a tube on the side of the piston, near the pin, on the flat area, and press the pin into this, like my picture if it's a floating pin setup, then you could take it out by hand, otherwise you will need to press it Nigel
  22. From a look at your waste gate, the hole in the middle top, with the threaded shaft is to change the spring pressure / tension, I don't have one like this, but I believe it's to change it's operating pressure, connect your turbo to the hole at the bottom ( closest to the flange ), if you have a boost controller ( electric ), this would use both holes ( top / bottom ) Nigel
  23. Hi, Have you got anymore picture showing how the front cover works, ie, how the water pump is setup and the front seal Nigel
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