Noddle

don't forget, the timing at the pulley need to match up to the timing you have set in MS (for that RPM), so if MS is set to 10 or 20 or what every you want it to be, the pulley needs to be the same, if it's not, use the + or - in the trigger offset setting to make them the same. Nigel

My bad, I assumed he was using resistors Nigel

I used these setting with my low impedance 440cc injectors with resistors. Nigel<br><br>NOTE: this is incorrect info..<br>

good, isn't it..

Tony, you wouldn't have a link would you ?, I just spent 30 minutes searching and could not find anything. http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/ Nigel

The M111 is the turbo one, 40mm rotor ( more flow ), I just got mine today http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88729-truth-on-l6-oil-pumps/page__p__843819#entry843819 Nigel

From this picture, it looks like the copper gaskets does NOT use a fire ring, wouldn't the copper 'burn / melt' after awhile ? Nigel

Or cough up some money for tuner studio and use it, to get it close to what you need. http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStudio/ Nigel

Question, having the water holes on the exhaust side of the head ( less on the spark plug side), will this increase the amount of the water moving past that side of the head, and thus reducing the chance of spot boiling, and helping reduce heat faster ? Nigel

I had to go with a external gate because the internal gate could not handle the exhaust flow that was needed ( on a L24 engine ) even after I enlarged the hole on the turbo housing.

If I was to do it again, and if I knew it was going to hit, I would have eyebrowed it, my L24 has dished pistons Nigel

The W24 block was the one with the factory eyebrowing,and originally had the mn47 head. (MR30 Skyline) I put the mn47 head onto my P30 block with out eyebrowing, from the picture you can see where it 'self cleared' (small nick in the block) the P30 block is the one I blew the head gasket, running 15 psi, I had way to much advanced, and this caused the head gasket to go. Nigel

Like this.. I blew the head gasket and had to replace it, that what happens with 15PSI and detonation. Nigel

Hi, This has been covered before, but I'm not busy at the moment, so I'll dug out some pictures for you, the first 2 are of a L24e engine ( W24 block ) that came with a (M)N47 head, the 3rd is of a L24 engine ( P30 block ) that I put this head on, as you can see the intake valve 'self cleared' itself Nigel

The Australian delivered HGC110 ( 4 door Datsun 240K ) and the KHGC110 ( 2 door datsun 240K ) uses these style of lights ( the larger out side surround is the 2 door ) the inside lights ( clear outer / red inner ) is reversed to the Japan KPGC110 ( red outer / clear inner ) these come up on ebay semi regularly www.ebay.com.au Nigel

Ok, try this, 288.5 kilometers using 23.74 liters of fuel = 8.22 liters per 100 k so that's, 179.2656 mile, using 6.271445 gallons of fuel = 28.58 miles per gallon, so it appears that the calculator I've been using is (UK gallons) I apologize for misleading you guys. looks like I need to lean my fuel a little more to get over 30 mpg Nigel

Why not go EFI ( megasquirt ) ? my turbo L24 is getting 34.34 mile per gallon on highway cruise, sitting on about 3K @ about 68 mph. Nigel

Normally the intake valve, unless you have larger exhaust but you should test it by rotating the cam, with the head on, if you screw the cam bolt in, with some washers so it doesn't bottom out, (in the cam), use a socket and bar to turn the cam. make sure the head guides are installed so the head doesn't move. Nigel

You don't seem to be getting any reply's, so I'll have a stab with a list that may be the issue.. bad oil pump, bad oil pump gasket (leaking internaly ) bad oil pump pressure spring lose oil pickup (sucking air where it connects at the block) oil pick up filter clogged I had a issue with low oil pressure after I built a engine, replace the oil pump and that fixed it, but you have next to no oil flow, btw, are you using a gear reduction starter motor ?, as this will spin it slower Nigel

oil burning ?, I suppose it would depend on the type of oil rings you have, the full type , 3 piece type I would think would not leak, the single type may leak a little, but how much more oil could escape from a 0.508 mm gap Nigel

You can file the ends of the rings, to make the gap larger.

I had to do a search on EGR, but once I saw a picture I knew what you was talking about, I have the non-egr manifold. I think I will just play with what I have, and see how it goes, I'll lean it out a little more on cruise, and keep a eye on the egt and thank you for the input, Tony, Snailed. Nigel

It's very relaxed here, there is no emissions testing. I'll do some more loggin and try to lean it a little more, but on my 3 trips so far, I have gone from 19 mile per gallon to 24, and my last trip 27, so I'm pretty happy. Nigel

Hi, I'm after some information about how lean I can run my engine before I do any damage, a little back ground, I have to travel about 300k (190 mile) once a fortnight, and since fuel is getting expensive (AU$1.95 a liter, about US$1.98), I want to try and save some money by leaning it out a little, I'm running Megasquirt, so I have full control over spark and fuel, On today trip, cruising at 110kmh (about 70 mph) sitting on about 3200 RPM, with a AFR of 16.2ish, with a EGT at 784C (1443F - EGT probe is open tipped and installed at the mouth of the turbo manifold exit flange, before the turbo), engine temp was normal, To me, the engine was running smoothly, a little lean misfiring, from coming onto throttle after rolling down a decline, but other than that, it ran great. I have also leaned it out similar as to what's about for 60,80,100 kmp/h (40,50,62 mp/h) AFR drop back to 14.7 - 11ish when I load the engine up, so I still have plenty of power for those over take moves. is this to lean ?, at what temperature will I melt something ? Nigel

After much trial and error (my Magnecor KV85leads look very nice), I tracked it down to the pickup lead, looks like it got hot, it was near the exhaust manifold, when I cut it open, the 2 wires inside had melted through their insulation, I assume in 2nd and 3rd gear hard pulls, it would flex enough to touch together, thus cutting sensor input (killing my tach signal / making MS reset) moral of the story, check your cables, don't have anything near extreme heat. I hope this helps someone else, it was very frustration to say the least. but I'm a happy camper now.. Nigel,