Noddle

What I would do, find 2 bolts (not hardened) with the right thread, find 2 copper washers to use to seal the bold head to the fuel rail, (or grove the underside of the head, and fit a o-ring) drill into the bolts with a smaller drill & tap, make a bracket from your manifold to the rail, my pallnet rail uses 2 aluminum brackets. in this picture, you can just see the brackets, http://noddle.110mb.com/440%20Injector%20-%20Fuel%20Rail%20Upgrade/slides/100_8158-1024.html Nigel

What do you meany Tony, the exchange rate is where it should be, last time I saw it like this, I was about 10. Best time ever to get engine parts for my car.. Nigel

Hi, I have been trying to track down my MS reset issue, and I have a question about EDIS and the tacho output, my EDIS is using the 3 x diodes to make my tacho work, when I have the reset issue (2-4 seconds), my taco drop to 0 RPMs, when this happen, the EDIS module still has +12V to it (l i have a lights connected to the power wire to it, at the module itself), I though that EDIS would still give out a tacho output, even if MS resets, since the engine is still turning over, even though it's dead any ideas ? and you can hear the fuel pump relay click when this happen, and click again when it fires back up Nigel

Hi, It appears the forth diagram above is correct one to use for a external waste gate. so, now I have 7PSI (waste gate default spring), with the unit off, 10 PSI on low, and 15PSi on high, I have fitted a remote on/off, and momentary switch to select between lo and high, work very nicely Nigel

The reason I bought up the 'A' cam was, here in Australia, they are not that rare, the 1981-85 MR30 Skyline (L24e) has them, as well as the N47 head (mn47). Nigel

Hi, I'm about to connect my external waste gate, but the instructions don't look right to me, the internal one works by allowing pressure through the solenoid to the wastegate, to open it. the external one, looks like it allows pressure to the the wrong side on the diaphragm. it looks like it allow pressure to close it (?) my waste gate instructions show how I would think I should connect it. can some one give me a idea which is the correct way. I think the second, and fourth picture should be the same (I think the second picture is missing the connection to the turbo at the top fitting) Nigel

I was under the impression that the N/A, 'A' Cam was the way to go, or is the 'C' cam a better option ? Nigel

I brought a second hand one, (1/3 the cost of a new one), I hooked up a momentary push button switch to the 2 contact that you showed, connected the unit to a battery (it's not in my car yet), and pressed the button, and lo and behold, it changed boost levels. also looks like someone read your post, mine had loctite on the 2 nuts. Nigel

I see another little secret had been freed from Tony D vault..

I though I might add to this, since I had this problem after moving my engine form one car ( 4 door) to my coupe, short story, specs L24, 440 cc injectors, Megasquirt (MSExtra), EDIS, Intercooled, 3 inch exhaust. before I removed the engine from my 4 door, I recreated the engine harness, plugged it in to test, all worked fine, then I removed the engine from my 4 door, this sat in my shed for about 5 months while the weather cleared up, once the weather got better, I moved it to my coupe, with some changes to the waste-gate, went from internal to external, (went from 15 psi to 7 psi for now) fired it up and had some plugs fouled on me, so I cleaned them, I had problem of the engine cutting when coming on boost, AFR went learn, it would pop and fart, took my foot of the throttle , dropped under boost, then it all ran normal, I could lightly run the engine up to high revs, but once boost came on, it died, like hitting a wall. so I did a heap of searching on this site, and came across this post, I changed the gap on my plugs from 0.7mm (0.28) to about 0.5mm (0.20), and this made it run up to about 4 - 5 psi before the problem came back, I put new plugs in it, and that fixed my problem, not sure why it played up, since it was running fine in my other car. I should have know better, I have seen spark blow-out on a old spark-plug clearer when I was younger (it was a nice bit of gear) Hopefully this may help someone else who has this type of problem. Nigel

I learnt how to mig weld when I built my 3 inch exaust ( I'm still learning), I know how to stick, and oxy weld already. get some metal to test with and play, once you get the amperage, and wire speed right, it's not to hard. I found some how to on youtube, the main thing I learnt was to listen for the sound it makes when it's running just right.

Silly question, do they use a fire ring ? Nigel

Hi, It looks like your main gasket has some 'blow by' so I would assume you will be using a new one ? Nigel

Hi, before you get flamed, I suggest you do a search, as this has been discussed before here's a search topic for you, BRAAP manifold clean Nigel

Hi, I did some more work today, I think this should work pretty good. Nigel

Hi, I spent most of the day outside working on this, as you can see I did pre-heat the parts before welding, not sure if it got hot enough, but it was enough to burn my finger. I just hope I did a good enough job.. Do you think I will have a issue with the vacuum / boost line to my wastegate ? (heat melting the tube) Nigel

Hi, It's been awhile, the weathers starting to clear up (summer), anyway I was doing some test fitting, and this seems to be the best placement for my setup, I had some issues finding enough room, since my waste gate has such a large diaphragm area, I had to remove the head of the engine block water plug. I'm still very nervous about welding this, so I may just tack it, and take it to a professional. Nigel

Hi, did you check that the shaft that turns the pump, is not stripped (gear), or the pin broken in it ?, you could test this by seeing if the distributor turns when cranking if the car is running then I would not think this is the issue. Nigel

Maybe I should rephrase my statement, saying "it was a nice "Charger" killer", (265 hemi, not the v8's..) but my friends only had the 6 cylinder version.

This was a nice reminder of my first car, a 1961 XK Falcon running the same 144 engine connected to a two speed auto, I used to brag, saying I could hit 50 miles an hour in first.. ( http://en.wikipedia..../Ford_XK_Falcon ) in the end I put a 250 XFlow with a Toyota steel 5 speed, and a EH Holden diff running a 308 center on 13 inch hot wire rims.. it was a nice "Charger" killer.. ( http://en.wikipedia....hrysler_Charger ) Nigel

Not to hijack this thread, but are these sizes inside or out side measurements Tony ? ( I have no idea about tubing) also what wall thickness is recommended Nigel note: I just realise he is not talking about the fuel line, but that is what my question is for.

Sorry about the confusion of the N47 , MN47, this head was off a MR30 L24e Skyline, and they all have this head ( N47 ), well the ones I have seen. My problem is that i have never seen any P90 heads, I did hear that some of Nissan Patrols had P90's, I will need to look into this more. thank you for your input. Nigel

I disagree. the dirty one is a N42,the clean ish one is a N47, the N42 has a steep right around the combustion chamber, the N47 does not. the 3rd picture is a P90 Nigel

A N47 would be more like a P90 (turbo head), than a N42, and when I unshroud the valves, it will remove a few more cc's from the chamber size.

I had a similar issue, it turned out to be a electrical issue, only happened after I washed the engine, I cant remember if it was the TPS, or the AFM connector had water in it. I just read this. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ Nigel