Noddle

My cars a little different, but still uses the old Bosch System, so this is what I did to mine to use the original wiring to connect to my MS II. Nigel

Tony, do you have a ID number for the L24 cam, if not, would it be a internally oiled one, or the older externally oiled one. Nigel

I find your writing style very hard to read. but I'm a little illiterate / dyslexic myself. something to check, remove the wategate arm of the flapper arm, see if the flapper is closed properly, make sure the wg arm does not make the wg flapper open any ( what I'm trying to say is, if the wg arm is to long, it will hold open the wg flapper open, thus leaving a gap) it be quicker for me to shown, than try to explain, lol.. Nigel

follow the link from here (Tuner Studio home page) http://msextra.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=122&sid=476c46b72788d8f5db5365d134143d9e Nigel

If you put the cam tower back in the same place you removed it from, and the contact area on the bottom of the tower and head are clean, and torqued correctly, you dont need to do anything else, but if you dont put the cam towers in the same location, you may have issues with binding. I always center punch the number where the towers live, ie , 1 mark on the fist tower, 2 marks on the second tower, etc, Nigel

you mean 'tag' (centre punch ) each tower, so they go back in the same place ? as you do with the main caps and conrods ..

You must love it, otherwise you would have move to another job, unless the money is to good to let go.. Nigel

if you shave the head, the shims fit under the cam towers to keep the 'factory alignment' Nigel

If you do a timing map, can you upload it please, any chance to add what kpa (vacuum) as well. I just want to compare a standard dissy with what my MS II is running. Nigel

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/73212-turbo-fuel-regulator/page__p__696432__hl__regulator__fromsearch__1entry696432 Nigel

I haven't installed mine yet, but I would say the longer one would be the ones that goes through the head, and the cam towers, and the shorther ones, would only go through the head Nigel

That wont be long, before the itch kicks in

My '85 MR30 had the N47 small chamber head Nigel

I asked the same question on the msextra forums, this is the solution Re: TunerStudio + BoostGauge, how to do it ? If you paste this into the custom.ini file in the projectCfg folder: Code: Select all [OutputChannels] vacuum = {(barometer-map)*0.2953007} ; Calculate vacuum in in-Hg. boost = {map < barometer ? 0.0 : (map-barometer)*0.1450377} ; Calculate boost in PSIG. [GaugeConfigurations] ; Name Var Title Units Lo Hi LoD LoW HiW HiD vd ld vacuumGauge = vacuum, "Engine Vacuum", "in-HG", 0, 30, 0, 0, 30, 30, 1, 1 boostgauge = boost, "Engine Boost", "PSIG", 0, 20, 0, 0, 15, 20, 1, 1 It should be listed as "Engine Boost - boostgauge" under "Gauge Templates X" when you right click on a gauge thanks to Phil for the answer Nigel

Hi, I'm just started playing with TunerStudio, and I want to add a Boost gauge like I have in MegaTune, can some one explain, how this is done. Nigel

Ok, So which pump has the 40 mm rotor ?, since the part numbers are different between the same brand of pump. I tried to upload my modified picture, but look like my '500K' (1/2 a meg) is all used up.. Nigel

I sent you a pm Nigel

Throw it my way then,.. got to be better than my N/A 'A' cam Nigel

In Australia ? I tried to buy a Nissan turbo pump (83 Auto I believe), from a part number I had, the number superseded to another number, which turned out to be a normal N/A pump. Nigel

Do you have a part number for the KA24E pump ? Nigel

MR30 Skyline ('82-'85) L24e HGC210 ('77-'82 I think) L24 (?) HGC110 240K ('73-'77) L24 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline#C110 All have front sumps. Nigel

I know on my MSII, especially when the engines cold, (I dont have fast cold idle stuff), since it wont idle, I have the 'feather' the throttle to keep it from stalling, But what I noticed, if the revs get to low (it idles at 700 when warm), MS goes into a different mode, I think it goes into cranking mode, wont rev, wont idle for long, leans right out. But if I turn it off, and restart it's fine. Just looked at your log, what I said above is not your issue. Nigel

So what did you do for the stater motor ? Nigel

Since this is my daily drive, I can't afford the type of money that is required to buy the 5.5 inch setup. Did you use the whole starter, of just swap the 'drive gear' ? Nigel

I know for a fact that my 240K (not Z) uses a 225mm clutch (standard), as this is my problem at the moment (slippage), I'm going to get a 240mm RB30 clutch setup for now (single plate), at some point when I build a L28, I'll look at lighting the flywheel. Tony did you every find your spec on what to machine to lighten these flywheels ? (there's a old post somewhere here) Nigel