grumpyvette

notice they chose a 350 with only about 9:1 compression and sportsmanII heads, both of those choices are hurting the larger roller cams but are valid in that they will show better hp than stock chevy heads and give a good indication of what your average hot rodders engine puts out, now of course adding better flowing heads like the IRON EAGLE orAIRFLOW RESEARCH and BOOSTING the COMPRESSION will boost the hp on the longer durration cams http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Camshafts/DynoSheets/ ------------------

here this may help http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm

posiably helpful info http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/montana500/speedpiston.html http://www.kb-silvolite.com/speclear.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar80125.htm http://www.picknowl.com.au/homepages/harrals/tech/piston.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us20114.htm

12-433-8 2500-6000rpm (3.90 ratio is a better match) here play with this http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm

the first thing your going to need to do is determine what rpm range you want your engine to produce peak power in,now your present intake and cam are designed for the 4000rpm and above range,but your rear gear is for the 1500-4500rpm range, if thats not where you want your power you will need to change parts, a swap to a CRANE #114142 cam and a performer rpm intake would match that 3.5 rear gear ratio.or a change of rear gear to a 4.11-4.33 rear gear will match the engines torque curve now. mike c gave you good info, while the intake swap would give you a shift in the torque range and more low rpm torque, that shift comes at a price in that what it gives you in low speed torque due to the higher airflow speeds in the ports it takes away in high rpm power due to that same restrictive airflow. swapping to the dual plane intake will give you part of the boost in low rpm torque your looking for but a higher rear gear (4.11s) would be my choice because you will keep your high rpm power and the 700r4 trans overdrive will still keep your highway driveing rpms reasonable. swapping to a smaller durration cam will also have the effect of dropping your peak hp and boosting your low rpm torque but again why drop your power,changeing the rear gear and then the intake only if the gear change alone does not get you where you want to be would be in my opinion the better plan.

If you use the recommended valve springs that come with the cam a rev kit while a good idea is not 100% necessary in fact I think Id pass on it unless this car is going to spend most of its time racing, reve kits only normally help over 6500rpm and you really should shift before then to keep in the mid torque curve area, yes you might be slightly faster with it but you should have way more power than you can use anyway(and if you don,t a 250hp nitrous plate system will get you there still without going over 6500rpm) the 2800rpm stall will work very well with that cam. if you learn to tune that mech secondary carb correctly youll have ZERO problems with it, no sence swapping it out if thats what you have, vacume secondaries are just a easier to tune option not a big plus hp wise. BTW your one lucky guy, nice car and a cute wife, now if you can just get rich..... best of luck guy!!

yes the rods should work but they will be very close to their strength limits if your running the crap out of the engine most of the time, also keep in mind that a software/dyno estimate is not fact written in stone but it does show trends clearly. I would definetly use a super victor intake as it will kill some low rpm torque you don,t need and give you better high rpm hp which you can use! btw thats flywheel hp not rear wheel hp but you should very easily embarrass 99% of the other cars on the road

190cc=447hp-442tq this is a good street strip combo 195cc=445hp-438tq the 195cc heads work better with a single plane intake 195cc with super victor single plane intake 469hp/432tq (much better combo) suggestion 195cc heads super victor intake full length 1 3/4" headers comp cams 12-433-8 solid roller 750 carb 3" exhaust to an (X) then 2.5" the rest of the way 487hp/467tq (not as streetable but one kick butt engine if you can live with it, as its not really a street combo but could be street driven)

heres a fairly simple test (1) is the piston speed over 4000fpm (48000/stroke x 2 = 4000fpm piston speed RPM MAX LIMIT which should only be reached for an instant before shifting) (2) is the compression ratio 11:1 or greater (3)are you going to use over a 100hp nitrous shot? (4)are you going to run the crap out of the car every chance you get and/or not use a ignition rpm limiter? (5) will you exceed 6300rpm where valve float, especially hydrolic lifter valve float is likely? (6) do you enjoy long smokey burn outs and catching rubber in each gear change answer yes to one and you probably could use forged parts answer yes to two or more and you NEED forged parts labrat keep the rpms at 5500rpm or less and you should get years of use out of that combo.

what is the stock fireing order on a 1970 boss 302 engine?

you want HOLLEY TUNEING INFO,this might help, http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.shockley.net/holley-jets.asp http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/PrtDscp3.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp

heres a few fuel injection related sites from my data base to get you started http://www.azspeed-marine.com/catalog.html http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/oem/gm/tunetip.html http://www.kinsler.com/m_efi.htm http://fuelairspark.com/ http://www.customefis.com/ http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp http://www.hilborninjection.com/ http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Brands.html http://www.tpis.com http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html http://www.rversonline.org/PowerChips.html http://www.diy-efi.org/ http://www.fuelinjection.com/ http://www.race-technology.com/WebPage/Products/ECU/ECUMain.html http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm# http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/elpar.html http://www.force-efi.com http://www.dakotadigital.com/tech/ODY-13-2.htm http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm http://www.fuelairspark.com/common/information/presentations/fast/001/Default_fil es/frame.htm http://www.rancefi.com/ http://pages.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi/ http://www.affordable-injection.com/ http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/autronic.html http://www.autochart.com/ http://www.speartech.com/ http://www.ronsfuel.com/ http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950TB/950-22S.html http://kevthompson.homestead.com/intakesEFI.html http://www.geocities.com/softtailduece01/ http://www.inct.net/~autotips/f_inj.htm http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/injectors.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/TchArtcl/Artcl07.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/lubrant.html http://www.akmcables.com/ http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html http://www.tciauto.com/ecu/bank_bank.htm http://www.force-efi.com/bbsr.htm http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/ (this guys good) http://www.panhandleperformance.com/intakeefi.html http://members.aol.com/bigturbo1/ecms.html http://www.howell-efi.com/ http://www.jimsperformance.com/ http://www.sdsefi.com/ http://www.interject.com.au/regolatr.htm http://www.huntleyracing.com/massairflowbody.htm http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/p4xref.html#1227165 http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ECMs/85Fbody-wiring.pdf http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm ok I skipped alot but that should get you started

how to convert a LTI intake to fit a standard sbc heres some info alot of you can use, how to convert a LTI intake to fit a standard sbc http://www.lt1intake.com

how to convert a LTI intake to fit a standard sbc heres some info alot of you can use, how to convert a LTI intake to fit a standard sbc http://www.lt1intake.com

well heres the deal, you give me a cherry 300zx free and clear,and I write the manual as I go,make patterns on all custom engine mounts,trans mounts, drive shaft mods ETC. take lots of pictures and give you a ride when Im done installing a chevy v-8 in it, Ive got a 383 and a 454 in the gararge now that would love to run around town wrapped in a nice 300zx

plug info anyone? here you want plug info? we got plug info! http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techin...rtnumberkey.pdf http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/editori....d=71898 http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techin.../overviewp2.asp http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/ Cylinder Head Dart Iron Eagle Completely Assembled Info WRL 0530301 849.99 Pair the 215cc size works well for high performance useage. now heres the vortecs http://Parts@sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html which will also work but keep in mind they also require new valve covers,rockers,intake manifold and machine work which will put the cost at or higher than the iron eagles which are true bolt-on and go heads now aluminum heads are lighter, much easier to repair,less prone to detonation problems andallow you to run slightly more compression, overall they tend to be a slightly better deal but of course the tend to cost slightly more too. SUMMIT RACING has these heads available TFS-30410001 Cylinder Head (1) 23 Degree 1.25`` Spring Pre-1987 327 / 350 / 400 $450.00 X2=$900 for a set

here this might help,each article has at least some info you can use http://www.b-bspyder.com/ http://www.v8archie.com/faq.htm http://www.v8archie.com/v8fiero.htm http://www.off-road.com/products/showcase/advadapt-show.htm http://members.aol.com/DANMAS/design.htm http://www.engine-swaps.com/Car_Craft_December_2000/ http://members.aol.com/danmas/examples.htm http://www.engineswaps.com/ http://www.v8miata.com/ http://www.sv3.com/jimh/ http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.kennedyeng.com/other.htm

fuel info you might want to know http://www.idavette.net/hib/fuel/index.htm http://home.earthlink.net/~galiagante/house-booster.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/Lead.html http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/add.htm http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/gasave.htm http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Miscellaneous/FuelAdditives.htm

SCAT sells complete rotateing assemblies for building 383s with INTERNALLY BALLANCED 6" ROD, FORGED CRANKS,FORGED PISTONS,ETC. that work just fine with 350 style dampers and flywheels/flexplates http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

please read, this is the cliff note version of a course on bearings http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2016.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2022.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/...ankinstall.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.aera.org/Tech/tb1465r.htm

that block has a 4-bolt block and a forged crankshaft, its also set up to use factory hydrolic roller lifters or flat tappet lifters so its a good base to start from, personally I think you can beat this deal with very carefull shopping but not by a great deal. heres a deal where you get lots more parts/heads etc, but not the forged crank http://www.built4speed.com/html_docs/350_stroked_to_383.htm

cheap 383 http://www.superchevyperformance.com/12498332.asp

first the G.M. fastburn heads don,t fit the stealth ram intake ports,(they have vortec style ports) yes you could port the intake and have some welding done and get it to work but the fast burn heads don,t flow the numbers they show (out of the box either) the flow numbers were taken from a mildly reworked set of heads. your far better off getting AFR,195cc or 210cc head or CANFIELD 223cc heads or some other good flowing 23deg sbc head if your looking for 500hp, and don,t forget your going to need a serious roller cam in the area of 245degs@.050 lift to get 500hp, my roller Im useing, falls at least 20hp short of 500hp and thats with ported heads http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119661&B1=Display+Card something like this cam will be better but remember hp is not what I was after , I was after a wide torque curve from 2000rpm-6000rpm http://www.compcams.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-772-8 match this cam to the AFR 210cc heads and the stealth ram with 32lb injectors on a 383 with11.5 cpr and youll easily exceed that 500hp.

my computer shows that combo at about 440hp/440 tq , thats outstanding power from that engine, but remember computers are only a guide! they can quite easily be wrong so don,t put all your trust in them. as far as drivablity goes that cam should be fine ,its got 400ft lbs of tq from 2000rpm to 6000rpm, which is ideal.(good choice in cams) btw jt1 if your car was 308 rear wheel hp thats about 385 flywheel hp