grumpyvette

well? are the heads salvageable or are you basically starting from zero?

thinking back I don,t EVER remember a set of cylinder heads surviving a engine screw-up, like that un-damaged, Ill be surprised if anything but the intake,waterpump valve covers, damper, flywheel, and most of the valve train survived un touched

your right! looks good!

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1527608&an=0&page=0#Post1527608 heres some places to look, but remember to ask ALOT of questions CHEAP usually means LESS QUALITY http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/Crank06.pdf http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2117 https://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SS383F http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12011030&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB12010030&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category2_10001_10002_22553_-1

whats your goals (hp) and your rear gearing and transmission? will it be required to run on pump gas? look I can easilly give you a decent combo, but most guys (get a deal ) and fail to EXACTLY match components then wonder why it won,t run up to expectations OR they want a killer race hp but don,t want to put up with rought idle and low tq at low rpms,ETC. so please state your REAL goals and lets work on meeting them as closely as is practical in your budget. have you had those heads checked for cracks and flow rated? BTW a two bolt block, stroker with ARP main studs will work in most street/strip engines, and a stroker IS THE WAY TO GO!!!! its an ALMOST FREE extra 40-50 hp/tq over a similar 350

sounds like detonation broke a ring land, it got crunched, the piston tried to compress a chunk of aluminum and shattered, (comon with hypereutectics once detonation occures) now don,t get me wrong hypers work extremely well and hold up fine in a street application, but once the heat levels go up to higher performance levels.... forged are a better choice, they tend to hold together even mangled, which might have kept the rod from beating a hole in the block when it came loose.

sounds like DETONATION for sure, and WERE those HYPEREUTECTIC pistons? THEY have a bad rep for desintegrating if both detonation and impact damage occure, and detonation tends to break chunks of the ring lands loose, that get crushed between the chamber and piston, forged pistons won,t do that unless the detonation becomes severe/prolonged

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1300371217 IVE felt like doing that (or much worse)to some guys at times. why is it that some guys think they can owe you and never make an effort to come up with the debt, it bothers me to owe anyone anything

E119830 ON PAGE 22 http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf has 230/238 duration, 555/555 lift and 112 LCA you DON,T want a wider LCA, but ID use 1.6:1 ratio rockers, ESPECIALLY with nitrous now let me clearify something, I,m NOT saying you can,t make more PEAK power with a wilder cam (you can) but it won,t run nearly as well or produces as much AVERAGE power thru the WHOLE TQ curve and your car won,t be faster. that cam ON a 100-150 shot of nitrous will produce a nice power curve if your serious ID bump the cpr to 11.5:1, and get a 3500rpm stall converter, 4.11 rear gears, serious slicks and suspention tweaks, and a 250hp nitrous plate,then you can add a larger cam, like a E119833, but a cam like that on your current combo will be a dog, and it will run like crap on the street, your far better with the E119830 match currently

even smokey Y stated several times the x-ram was designed for racing in the 3500-7500rpm band and would not be a good street combo BTW WE always used a CRANE 110921 (4.11-4-88 gears)0r 114681 (3.73-3.90 gears)cam as it was the best match, the chevy 3965754 never worked nearly as well

http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf E119830 you don,t have the compression ratio,rear gear or stall to effectively use a larger durration cam effectively..... yes IM only too aware you think youll step up to a larger cam and get more power, IT WON,T WORK OUT WELL! look heres THE hydrolic roller cam IM useing in my vette with a 11:1 cpr, 383, 3000 stall,3.73 rear gear and 250 hp nitrous system http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 I make just under 500hp/510 tq OFF nitrous and WAY more on the giggle gas, your heads are better than mine and youll pull more rpms with the solid roller cam, ITS PLENTY OF CAM Phone: 775.882.1622 8:30 a.m.-5:00 p.m. Mon.-Fri. PST call and ask questions

you failed to mention your compression ratio or rear gear or stall, etc. THATS important info in the cam sellection

http://www.camaro-untoldsecrets.com/articles/crossram.htm Ive used the orriginal z28 cross ram, the offy intake thats similar and the single carb SY1 by edelbrock, the orriginal chevy intake is not the best,for power, leave it to the collectors you can have an offy intake with linkage NEW for under $600 the SY1 is not current production, but common on EBAY in good condition for under $500

I was kind of thinking of Grumpyvette (whom I've never met or seen) when I did this one (sorry grumpy, it was supposed to be in a good way...) and it's really sketchy right now, not finished at all... here something to work from, Im 59 year old redneck florida engineer 6'3" 267 lbs

due too giving away or selling a vast assortment of components while I built the dream garage, as I had very little storage space,Ive only got (currently) 5 big block chevy engines, two sbc,about a dozen differant intakes(assorted) a dozen assorted cams, and a few transmissions,and a few parts ,like rear axels, etc. but I kept the tools........with some planing and luck Ill be down to slightly less but with my personal corvette projects near complete in the next few years

theres a good chance its fine! but NEVER install ANYTHING thats goint to be spinning thousands of RPMs without being reasonably sure its not going to come flying apart under sudden load changes like shifting at 6000 rpm produce, its not likely to cut your feet off like a flywheel explosion with no scatter shield , but its mighty inconvienent to have the steering develope a mind of its own at 130mph, because shrapnel cut thru your steering linkage SO HAVE it CHECKED/TESTED....at a minimum!! your alternative is expensive but tested to 18,000 rpm and certified http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DB64265&N=700+115&autoview=sku

personally ID take it down to the local machine shop and ask THIER opinion and have it bead blasted and mag checked for cracks and painted if it passes, but that APPEARS to be a internal ballanced damper. the timing tab you have probably won,t clear and Id check that the TDC on the damper corrosponds with the true TDC placement , youll need a piston stop and degree wheel to check ( this should print and glue in place for a quick check) http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html

"Help choosing a welder 220v/110v?" thats SIMPLE ....there are NO 110 Volt welders that will do as good a job as the better 220Volt welders will over nearly as wide a range of conditions! and having at least a 180 amp rating will allow most automotive work to be done. now Ive used a bunch of welders and while Im certainly not a pro at welding, I think youll be served well with a miller 180, personally I prefer TIG welders,and oxy-acetolene welders they are both slow but produce great quality welds if youve developed some skill in thier use.

"Mine will have stub outs for sink/toilet, but My drain/septic field is uphill and I'm not sure how that's gonna work..." youll most likely need to install a LIFT STATION PUMP like I was forced to, building department B.S. the top of my septic tank is about 2 feet below my slab height and the garage floor slab,is on a mound I had built thats 4-4.5 feet above the surrounding area, but the heath dept insisted on having the contractors building the drain field height 1 foot lower than the slab so I needed 40 truck loads of fill brought in and have a huge drain field for a septic tank that rarely gets used at a cost of about $12,000 on that part alone, so the total cost on the bathroom was close to $17,000 btw I needed a hole dug larger than the foundation that was 5 feet deep and 45 x 80 before they started pouring in crushed rock/sand fill so the foundation was over 8 feet deep under the slab, that then was hammered and packed,and certified solid enough that it would support the garage, it seems that in palm beach some areas are soft....anouther in a long line of expences....dream garages cost money.. that was 60 plus truck loads of FILL, the stuff dug out was used to slope the area as it was considered inferior as a foundation, as it was sand and dirt mix

THANK YOU!!!! SPOTFITZ http://www.mcmaster.com/ PART NUMBER 1090K52 was what I need JT1 It can,t be done in this application, that was my first thought also..

most of us have grease guns to do lube jobs with, and most grease guns use either a strait metalic tip or a strait tip on a flexible hydrolic high presure hose and that works in most applications but IM sure most of you older guys have run into applications where a front or rear tire needs to be removed to get access to the grease nipples, and if I can find a 90 degree tip or a grease gun that comes equipted with a 90 degree tip that could be avoided, so has anyone found one that works THIS KIND NOT THIS KIND

"The only thing I wish I had done differently is get the surface smoothed" there ARE VERY HARD/SMOOTH EPOXY COMPOUND finish coats available that can be poured and smoothed on the surface that leave a glass smooth rock hard bonded surface...about a 1/6" thick,they cost a good deal but it might be an option? this MIGHT be one of them, but its an option http://www.epoxy-coat.com/floor_paint_samples.html

"6"-8" thick concrete...Man that must have cost a pretty penny to have poured. " thats the basic floor the area under the lift base is slightly thicker, and its NOT the crappy 2400psi concrete most contracttors use its MINIMUM TEST 3500psi concrete,( I paid EXTRA) just the floor slab cost me $21,000 but its got enought rebar and good concrete, that its not likely to have problems youll be supprised at the minimal differance in cost of concrete, around here at the time a yard of 2400psi was $90, 3500 PSI (GAURANTEED to TEST HIGHER) (yeah I had it tested, it tested over 4000psi) was only $105 a cubic yard,theres aproximately 90 cubic yards in the slab, (keep in mind the footer under the walls it much thicker and wider)so the differance was only about $1350, on a garage costing 100K plus thats minimal. but you would thinkl its worth it after hearing the lift installers bitch about " THATS THE HARDEST and THICKEST SLAB IVE SEEN IN 30 YEARS installing LIFTS" thats why its a ALI certified/validated by ETL LIFT and had it profesional;ly installed also http://www.ben-pearson.com/9000si.shtml I could have purchased a chinese lift for less than 1/2 the cost, but.....hey my butts going to be under that lift, you can bet Im making reasonably sure its not going to fail due to anything I can CONTROL/PREVENT

"Wouldn`t it be better if it had 3 doors instead of just 2?...Easier access..." now IM sure your not the first guy thinking that way.. first EACH HURRICANE RATED door cost in EXCESS of $3500 AND security holds as a bigger factor for me than ease of access. so let me point out a few facts.... I use the shop MAINLY to build RACE and HOT STREET/STRIP engines....and building a few race cars and secondary to park my corvettes and tractor, I don,t work to a tight schedual,I do things CORRECTLY and with friends, theres rarely a need or room for more than a few cars due to all the engines in various stages of completion and the necessary tools I don,t do this as a BUSINESS , rather as an OBSESSIVE hobby to a very sellect few friends, IM constantly booked solid for years in advance, while a great deal of time and parts cycle thru the shop its RARE for me to make any money, what I do get is satisfaction of having alot of races won with my engines, and a rather tight group of old geezers that love embarraseing the younger crowd with cars that leave them thinking thier brakes locked up as they get left in the tire smoke, looking at the fast receeding tail lights btw doing it as a hobby beats doing it as a BUSINESS like I did for 28 years

Below is a reply from them on their system... Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thank you for your interest in the all-new RetroTek BossEFI system. The story in Hot Rod magazine came out a little early and our site was not ready to go up so we will be adding info daily. PRICING To answer some basic questions, the system is set to target the $2000.00 price range for the 930cfm body and comes as a complete package. The Throttle body bolts in place of a Holley or similar 4 barrel and has the same overall dimensions, so the air cleaner will remain in the same location. SELF-TUNING COMPUTER The computer is the first self-tuning system available and is a speed density ,closed loop system . We use a PLX wide band (included) and the system delivers hands free tuning at all loads and RPM²s. The key to our system is its VE SYNC which reads the air fuel of your engine and re-writes the base fuel table to deliver the exact Target Air Fuel ratio desired for your engine. This can be done while viewing the info on a laptop, or without one. The system re-programs itself so the oxygen sensor does not have to work to correct an inaccurate calibration each time you run your engine. Once this is done you can leaved the O2 in place to compensate for various fuel and elevation differences. A video demonstrating a system being tuned will be posted on the site shortly so keep checking it out. ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS The kit comes with a high pressure fuel pump that mounts on the chassis at or below the fuel tank . For over 500HP and larger applications, an ultra-high performance pump is required for an additional charge. Also there is no need for a return fuel line although one may be used along with an EFI bypass regulator. The return-less system is included in the kit but the bypass style system is not included and can be purchased separately. ECU & WIRING DETAILS The computers dimensions are 6-inches long, 4.5-inches wide, and 1.65-inches high; and it can be mounted either under the dash or in another dry location. All wiring features weather pack connectors and are completely terminated although you are required to install an o2 sensor bung in the exhaust pipe. This can be done in one side only by any muffler shop and the bung is included. SYSTEMS AVAILABLE There BossEFI comes in 2 sizes, 930 & 1200 cfm ratings. The 930 will handle up to 650hp and the 1200 is good for 900+hp with the correct size injectors. There is a simple formula to size the injectors. We use 4 so the math is: HP divided by 2 /4 = injector size. The computer is capable of very small pulse widths so it is better to be a little large in this area. An example of this is 500hp/2/4 = 62.5lbs. In this case we would use 63 lb injectors.For Dual Quad systems we would have 8 injectors so HP/2/8= injector size. 500hp/2=250/8=31.25. We would supply 8 32lb injectors in the kit. You can use this simple math to work up any HP combo you have. This is a Quick tip only,call us if you are un sure. All necessary sensors are included so this is a true bolt on system!! RELEASE DATE & FURTHER INFO We will be sending out periodic emails with more details about the BossEFI system up to the Spring 2007 release date. Please stay tuned, as THE MOST EXCITING NEW PERFORMANCE PRODUCT IN 20 YEARS is about to REVOLUTIONIZE your vehicle. Thanks for your interest, RetroTek Speed