grumpyvette

yeah it states you can pre-set the F/A ratio you prefer "Corona, CA - RetroTek Speed is set to rock the automotive aftermarket with a stunning leap into the future of fuel system design. The affordable, high-performance, easy-to-install BossEFI™ complete fuel injection systems will bolt on to any engine with a four-barrel carburetor. Thanks to RetroTek's revolutionary new self-learning Smart Tune Technology™ (STT) ECU, you don't even have to program the system. Simply plug in the harness, hook up power and ground wires, and drive. Within minutes the vehicle will be running smoother and more efficiently than it ever could with a carburetor. Most importantly, the BossEFI™ system fits on any four-barrel intake manifold, supports up to 1,200-horsepower, and is compatible with blow-through and draw-through supercharger and turbo applications. Thanks to external dimensions identical to a carburetor, it will even fit under your stock air cleaner, shaker hood scoop, or cowl induction. For the first time in history, enthusiasts can add a complete, high-performance, digital fuel injection system to ANY vehicle without hassling with complicated installations or advanced computer programs. Here's how it works. The patent-pending Boss750™ and Boss1000™ injector bodies are dimensionally nearly identical to a standard carburetor yet represent a giant leap forward in fuel system technology. These are NOT like the old-fashioned TBI systems that were bulky and low-performance. The RetroTek BossEFI™ Injector Body uses port-style high-pressure fuel injectors, which are hidden in the "float bowls." One high-pressure injector sprays into each of the four contoured max-flow venturis. Both 750 and 1000 cfm bodies are available to suit a variety of applications. The units are compatible with standard carburetor linkages and components, including nitrous and superchargers. The second component is the "Flow Control" pressure regulator. Rather than forcing a consumer to rip out their old fuel system and install complicated fuel return lines like old-fashioned aftermarket systems, BossEFI™ only requires one fuel line and a standard EFI pump. The Flow Control system modulates the pulsewidth of the fuel pump, meaning it can regulate the amount of pressure the pump makes to match fuel injector demand. This allows the Flow Control unit to modulate fuel pressure up to 60 times per second, so air/fuel ratios are always precise and there is never excess pressure in the line. The "brain" behind the operation is the third and final component, the RetroTek Smart Tune Technology™ (STT) engine management system. About the size of a paperback book, the STT is a totally new concept in fuel injection control. Simply take it out of the box, plug it into any computer (desktop or laptop) with a USB or serial cable, and choose one of the pre-loaded programs that best describes your engine. Simply highlight, click, and you're done. Then install the box in your car. The Boss750™ Injector Body is pre-wired with a wiring harness, which snaps into the side of the control box. Add positive and ground leads from the battery, an ignition lead, a lead from the coolant temp sensor in the intake, and snap in a wide-band O2 lead, and you're ready to go. Everything else is pre-wired, and the injector body is an all-inclusive EFI system. No fuel rails to plumb, no extra wires to run or sensors to install, and no headaches. Hit the ignition and the basic tune will get the motor started. At that point the STT System will start checking air/fuel ratios 60 times per second, until it creates it's own fuel curve. Drive around the block and the system will continue to learn, until engine operations reach peak efficiency. As your driving style changes, the STT will continue to adapt. For those who want to alter or modify air/fuel ratios, all they have to do is plug a computer into the STT, and type in the desired air/fuel number. The STT will do the rest. The engine tells the computer what it NEEDS, not the other way around. There's no longer a reason to abandon tried-and-true intake setups to convert to EFI. Use your proven manifold while adding all the benefits of turn-key fuel injection. The injector body, STT Computer, and Flow Control regulator are all available as separate components or in complete kit form. The BossEFI™ system is compatible with a variety of ignition systems, including MSD, HEI, Pertronix, points, Ford Electronic, and even coil pack/crank trigger systems. It is also fully compatible with standard throttle shafts, cables, and even transmission kickdown cables. Muscle car, hot rod, off-road, and marine performance enthusiasts finally have a viable, inexpensive, easy-to-install EFI solution that offers all the performance and reliability of a finely tuned port-injection system, with the simplicity of a carburetor. The RetroTek Boss750™ and Boss1000™ have undergone extensive dyno testing, and will meet or exceed carburetor and standard EFI system power numbers on even the most radical race motors. The testing and prototype development phase is complete, and systems with will be on the shelves Spring 2007. To preview all of RetroTek Speed's high-performance fuel systems, shifters, and muscle car hardware, email retrotekspeed@sbcglobal.net, or contact them at RetroTek Speed, 469 Harrison St. Unit E, Corona, CA 92879, or call 951-737-4379. "

http://www.retrotekspeed.com/ only testing will tell if this is as good/easy as its predicted to be, but it has potential in some applications

the solution to preventing the cheap auto store ramps sliding is very easy,AND CHEAP, you find a section of tire tread about 2 feet long and 10" wide 1" thick or less from one of those tires you always see along the interstate highway where some trucks recaps self destructed and you bolt and contact cement it so about 2/3 of its length extends in front of the ramps incline, thus your front tires weight capture and HOLD the ramp in place as you approach the , incline. you could also BUY a thick rubber door mat and cut it in two and use that but I prefer FREE options http://www.tracyvette.com/autoramps.html http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/ higher priced options http://www.discountramps.com/sports_car_ramps.htm

the TPI intake runner length and cross section is designed to work in a set rpm range, the cam timeing and compression ratio, needs to match too work without reversion, and certain header designs can hurt or help your reversion at idle. youll still get exhaust gases reversion in the intakes runners even with perfect rings and valves with some cams at low idle speeds

this is comon with some performance cams and the T.P.I intake which was designed for LOW RPM TORQUE, runner length and plenum volume were matched to provide maximum low rpm power and the corvettes geared to run in the 1000rpm-5500rpm band installing a new cam allows the engine to make power higher in the rpm range but sacrifices some low rpm torque and causes the intake to induce reversion pulses due to the differant cam timing you might be correct that the intake gasket in the lifter gallery leaks letting oil into the runners,but.. ITS FAR MORE LIKELY that the intake runners got black from intake manifold reversion pulses carrying exhaust gasses back into the plenum at low idle rpms due to the cams overlap with that cam you sellected, and the exhaust scavaging not being effective at idle rpms,PLUS the valve guides/seals allowing extra oil into the combustion chambers, ITS a somewhat inconvient result of needing that scavaging and overlap at higher rpms to build power, and having some wear or clearance that allows oil to be pulled into the chambers at low rpms THINK ABOUT THIS CAREFULLY, if ONLY the intake seal at the runner/manifold leaked the oil would tend to get sucked into the runners in the heads alone!, but intake pulse REVERSION and EXHAUST gases are pumping the crap all the way thru the runners into the plenum and into the throttle body.. heres what ISKY says "What Causes Intake Reversion? Once and for all, let us have the TRUTH! With the proliferation of the Motorsports Industry over the years, many new faces have come on the scene. In the cam grinding business today, there are many younger, less experienced companies struggling for recognition of their talents and a few have turned to postulating new theories in order to attract attention. However, they are I believe unfortunately, too often guilty of shooting from the hip. Two in particular are responsible for perpetuating the "myth" that an earlier opening of the intake valve (even by a mere 2 or 3 degrees) causes the phenomenon known as "reversion". Nothing could be further from the truth! This misconception not only defies common sense, it also establishes a false premise from which other, incorrect conclusions can be drawn. Simply put, those who focus on overlap are on the wrong end of the cam-timing diagram! Reversion, carburetor/Injector "stand-off" or the general effect of the backing up of the intake Fuel/Air charge normally associated with longer duration high-performance camshafts is actually caused by a Later Intake Closing! How do we know this to be true? The answer lies in the basic principles of physics. For as with geometry and trigonometry, these sacred truths do not change simply because someone chooses to ignore them in an attempt to garner a reputation. Specifically, when the intake valve opens some 40 or more degrees before T.D.C. at the end of the exhaust stroke, very little (virtually no) exhaust gases remain in the cylinder. The piston is in the vicinity of T.D.C. (only .425" down the hole @40o BTDC - on a typical 350" Chevy with 5.700" rods) and no appreciable threat is posed to the forthcoming intake charge. The "False Reversion Hypothesis" taken to an extreme would lead one to the equally false conclusion that any overlapping of the intake and exhaust valves is totally undesirable. Automotive engineers of the late 1800's and early 1900's used to think this way. They were deathly afraid of overlap, so much so they actually employed "Negative" overlap (minus 5 or 10 degrees) to be absolutely sure none would occur. What was the result? These engines were severely "throttled back" or limited to low speeds and mediocre output. [ Reference: Iskenderian's Tech Article "Cam Degreeing is Simple"] But, more progressive engineers of the early 1920's who performed "brazen experiments" with longer duration cams proved these overlap fears to be only so much "stuff and nonsense", as both power, rpm and performance were actually improved. These engineers demonstrated that overlap did not cause engines to quiver, backfire or lock-up on the spot! Although, the ignorance displayed by their predecessors is easily explained by their lack of experience, (internal combustion engine design being in it's infancy) it was none the less the result of an incorrect hypothesis. Should you need further persuasion that reversion is not caused by earlier intake opening and the resulting extension of valve overlap, consider this: What happens when you advance any camshaft? The intake as well as the exhaust valves open earlier. Does this advancing of the cam cause more reversion? Of course not. Throttle response and torque are enhanced. Yet, if these theories were correct wouldn't the engine run more poorly, especially at lower RPM? The answer is obviously yes, and because so, these theories are invalid. A brief look at what's happening on the other end of the valve-timing diagram will tell you why. For when a camshaft is advanced, not only do both valves open earlier but they of course also close earlier - and here in lies the key to reducing Intake Reversion. Close your intake valves earlier and any tendency for the occurrence of Reversion or the backing up of the intake charge as the piston rises on the compression stroke will be reduced. It's not complex, nor is it a mystery. And the circumstances surrounding it's occurrence have not changed. In fact any experienced mechanic could tell you as much, for, as Ed's good friend the legendary Smokey Yunick might say, "Only country smarts are required to solve the problem."

got any complete 500 caddy engines??

I was wondering if any of you guys are near my location? I might be able to assist occasionally, if you need it?

please let me know what you find, my trans is a 2002 model, still in the crate designed for a heavy truck,so hopefully its already upgraded...one of my friends has the same trans in a 700hp 572 bbc chevel with no problems so far....so IM hopeing its a decent choice, transmissions are not my best area

Im looking forward to any info you guys may have on that 4l80 trans as Ive got a new (supposedly, heavy duty version) one sitting in its factory shipping crate,on the shelf intended for my bbc corvette swap,Ill use as a core and any info might be something I don,t yet have, the 4l80 is one of the few over drive gm trans that has any hope of working with a built big block, that will exceed 600ft lbs of tq

the first gen sbc has the most support and will be the least challenge and done correctly will provide damn impressive performance at a reasonable cost. the bigger v8s like the ,dodge 383-440,caddy,pontiac,buick 455-500 engines will take more work and skill but provide a rather unique result. it comes down to your skills, tools, imagination, and budget. personally Id take a long hard look at the caddy 472-500 if I was starting from scratch as they can be found cheaply and rebuilt reasonably and will provide a nice street/strip combo, especially iof you find a donnor caddy thats rear drive and has a 500 caddy in it (think 1970-3 eldorado) you can probably find a well rusted donor caddy in a salvage yard or some back yard or alley very reasonably if you look http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101463&highlight=caddy+500 if your going to race go with a chevy V8 theres far more racing parts available, but getting 450hp and 500 tq out of a mildly built 500 caddy and the wow factor makes me think the caddy is about ideal for a street/strip combo, but ID SURE FIND BOTH a good location to work with access to a welder and A DRIVABLE CADDY DONOR CAR BEFORE STARTING THE PROJECT

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=mikroniteAcq theres alot of good tech guys at crane cams that might leave or perhaps its a chance to upgrade the equipment and product line??

if it was stored in a dry location it should be fine,especially if it was wrapped up in something like plasitic sheeting, if the price is good jump on it, even if you did need to replace every gasket (unlikely) it would still be a deal Id squirt a little marvel mystery oil into each spark plug hole and change the oil , adding a full qt of marvel mystery oil to the rockers on both sides and new filter then and only then turn it over thou to prevent rings/valves dragging on dry cylinder walls and valve guides, rockers galling ETC.

I WAS thinking of UPGRADING the old ladys equipment, altho I doubt she will go for it!

just for grins, whats the approximate cost range on boob jobs now

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH&cat=13 dirt cheap, no brainer, engine insurance

I generally install one in the rear of the lifter gallery near the oil drain, one in the rear of each cylinder head near the oil drain and a few in the corners of the oil pan, youll be very surprised at the amount of crud that gets trapped on these,like the metalic dust that comes from engine wear, and they become a true engine saver when valve train components get loose. like keepers or broken pushrods,springs,etc.

http://www.lakewood-industries.com/ http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/LAKEWOOD.pdf

Ive made more than a few sets of custom headers and if your patient and careful you can make some amazingly good headers, but the 1 5/8" headers are not the huge handicap some guys think nthey are compared to the 1 3/4" size, while its true they tend to lower the tq curve in the rpm band, the differance rarely makes or breaks your results, its the exhaust system behind the collectors that usually the weak link in that its restrictive to flow, and the design of those collectors themselfs, in that most collectors are too large in dia and too short to maximize the power http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB64&Number=678126&Searchpage=1&Main=678073&Words=smurf+grumpyvette&topic=&Search=true#Post678126

yes they stay put, but I tend to try to eliminate ALL potential problem areas, reduntandacy rarely hurts in safety, and having a couple of hundered percent extra strength rarely hurts either btw http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH&cat=13 these are even more tollerant of temp swings and retain strenth at even higher temps plus they are smaller and easier to use

while Im sure it could be done, it would require a great deal of pollishing and grinding,extra work and you would not get the sealing in of the micro pores that hold metalic dust thats always present, the gyptal acts as a sealer and barrier and smooths the surface plus if you use the brighter colors it makes spotting micro broken parts from the valve train far easier

a few more pics, its still a total mess while Im in the process of moving in but IM getting there slowly, notice the bass pond, its about 70-80 yards wide and 60 yards across I could only get a few of the BBC engines in the shop, into the camera/shot

duplicate

Ive got several steel pins in my left ankle and left knee, bad back they can,t operate on,and enought scars to make you cry.........NONE of it from working on CARS, but by the time your 59 you see alot of stupid moves made by other guys and hopefully learn from thier stupid mistakes thats why I keep posting things about useing 4-6 12 ton jack stands to support your car,on LEVEL concrete plus roll around jacks while under cars and making sure youve got a 300% -500% PLUS safety margin in the strength rating on lifts and hoists , minimum, of 2000lb rated engine stands, having several large fire extingishers, ETC. Ive seen too many guys get screwed up big time useing cheap flimsy support tools or getting stupid thinking they don,t need safety supports etc. you better concider the results if something FAILS without warning and make arangements for a second line of defence on your butt getting crushed, burnt, electrically zapped or sliced even then YOUR going to eventually screw up so be prepared with a LARGE WELL THOUGHT THRU FIRST AID KIT,PERCOCET, and a CELL PHONE, PLUS a good understanding of where the local emergency room is

that brings TEARS to my eyes thinking about the PAIN

"Can anyone else relate to this???" sounds like you were there with me at times