grumpyvette

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U077.pdf http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U013-U020.pdf http://www.sigmasystems.com/Techdoc/Tech_Docs/SigmaPowerPlugs.htm http://leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503T.pdf (see page 21) http://www.danielwoodhead.com/pdf/139-172/163.pdf http://techpubs.sgi.com/library/tpl/cgi-...i_html/apb.html btw this may help, most garages need a welder or a lift, sooner or later so youll more than likely need a 220 volt outlet (30-100amp) this wiring stuffs not hard to do, but use the correct gauge wire and the correct plugs and sockets for the application and ID strongly suggest useing a MINIMUM of 10ga wire for 110volt and 3/4" metalic conduit (use the correct single breaker rating for the application on the 110 volt) 110 v outlet end black/power to the gold screw white/neutral to the silver screw green/ground to the green screw 110v at the box black/power to breaker white/ neutral to neutral bar green/ ground to ground bar and 4 GA on the high amp 230 volt applications,like WELDERS, little 230volt stuff like compressors and lifts get along fine with (4) 10 ga wires (use the correct dual breaker rating for the application on the 220 volt) 220v at the outlet red feed to one hot black feed to one hot green to ground on plug (optional but HIGHLY RECOMENDED) second green to the conduit ground screw 220v at the box red to one side of DUAL breaker black to one side of DUAL breaker green/ ground to ground bar optional green/ ground to ground bar

"Man, grump, I would hate to go hunting with you" WHY? is a 458 LOTT.. loaded with 600 grain soft points too much for whitetail deer???? JUST KIDDING, I use a 358 winchester BLR but if YOUR having trouble knocking them down TRY THIS http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/1167/edora.html

I build this nice garage and yesterday morning I find a BUNCH of FIRE ANTS in a line going under the door, now in FLORIDA WE HAVE ZILLIONS OF ANTS and I HATE THE LITTLE SNEAKY S.O.B.S., I look around and they are all over the place, but I can,t find whats attracting them? off to the local home depot, I buy a pump up sprayer a qt of concentrated SEVIN a qt of concentrated DURSBAN a qt of concentrated MALITHON a qt of concentrated TRISEVIN and 2 OZ bottle of PYRETHRIN EXTRACT I dump about an ounce or more of each plus an ounce of dawn dish soap (to destroy surface tension) into the pump up sprayer and I fill it with water, I spray EVERY OUTSIDE SURFACE on the doors and the floors near the doors till they are totally soaked......and the total perimeter of the garage ,today I get up at 6 A.M. and there are what appears to be about 4-6 lbs of coffee grounds piled up near each door, I can,t believe theres that many dead ants......SO I re-spray heavily ,checking at 5 P.M. I find theres not an ANT to be found alive near the garage! .....GOT YOU LITTLE ^^&*&* S.O.B.s (yeah temp. victory but I feel like I made progress) the wife says I went alittle overboard but shes never worked on her back under a car and had fire ants bite the %^&*& out of HER!

what you may not be aware of is californias central valley has had SMOG before there were cars and factories, the local INDIANS used to call it "the valley of SMOKE" because even in the early 1800s the smoke from camp fires seemed to stay stuck in the valley in most places the winds and rain tend to clear the air but in california its trapped by the geographical features and wind patterns

I ran two seperate trenchs, the power trench was 30"-40" deep the water and phone trench was 18" deep and I seperated the water pipe and phone conduit by 18" side by side, BTW BE SURE to leave a STRONG pull rope in the conduits, and use LOTS OF dish washing liquid soap or some other water soluable lubricant to ease the wire pull, if it were to pull loose or brake durring the pulling in process your temp. screwed

SIMPLE CHECK LIST IS IT LEGAL! IS IT TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE? WOULD IT BE REASONABLE TO DO THIS ON THE SELLERS PART? IS IT LOCAL,AND CAN YOU CHECK IT OUT BEFORE SPENDING ANY MONEY? IF YOU OWNED IT WOULD YOU SELL IT AT THAT PRICE? IF THE ANSWERS NO to any of those questions PASS. !!! ITs PROBABLY the BEST IDEA! because for every DEAL you get your very likely to get SCREWED/ SCAMMED at least once so on average youll loose money

that SUCKS, theres ALREADY far to many restrictions, licences and B.S. involved with cars, and very little if any PROOF that cars are a major factor and not other sources like manufacturers, heating , power production, ETC. cause smog, in fact most DATA suggests cars are a MINOR FACTOR in comparison...BUT like most things ITS MONEY DRIVEN, YOU can tax and restrict and finacially bleed dry the average car owner and make it appear your accomplishing something while raking in a HUGE NEVER ENDING PROFIT

http://www.melroseheaders.com/products/smooth_flow_exhaust_systems/c-4.php this is a nice looking corvette exhaust, but with thought and time a skilled weldor could make/fit a (Z) with a similar set-up in most cases you can,(I might go so far as to say SHOULD) build your own custom stainless headers/exhaust Id also point out that if you have the skills and a decent welder you can BOTH do this (build and install a custom exhaust)and save a good deal of money, doing it at home, while avoiding the ticket potential...that drive on the street with open headers invites,...and if you know what your doing or are willing to take the effort to research the info, you can have a far better custom stainless exhaust than the average muffler shop will slap together ,for you and over charge you for built from aluminized steel that rusts out in a few years, and one thats built to help the power curve vs just reduce noise and make the muffler shop a quick buck!!! http://www.melroseheaders.com/products/smooth_flow_exhaust_systems/c-4.php http://stainlesssteelmufflers.com/index.html http://pertronix.com/new_products/new_product_index.htm http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/index.php http://www.spdexhaust.com/ http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/exhaust.htm http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+400170&D=400170 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...ategoryId=26581 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...ategoryId=10263 http://www.stainless-specialties.com/products2a.htm

youll be better off in the long run to use a heavier gauge and ask the local inspectors about whats required to pass codes, my shops 440 feet from the house I ran (4 ) lengths of 2/0 and a #6 grn for a 200 amp feed btw take a stiff drink BEFORE asking prices........just the wire, not including the conduit cost me close to $2000 and Ive heard that prices jumped up recently.....now youll pay a great deal less at about 1/4 the length but it will still be expensive to do the job correctly to pass inspection. another thing......at least in my area you need a 2" pvc pipe burried a minimum of 24" below ground, a seperate cut off braker at the house and the shop and two 10 ft ground rods and a water pipe ., and all shop outlets GFI ground to pass inspection luckly IM a retired engineer, and I did all the wiring system layout and had my sons install 2500 ft of 3/4" conduit in the shop, 21 quad high intensity floresent lights,each circuit with its own breaker and grounds,GFI and all wired 10GA (110volt outlets)or 4GA(220V outlets) the BID I got from several electricians was all over $15,000-$18,000 (LABOR only) I had the work done myself with my direction and the kids installing for under $7000 (PARTS/LABOR) parts/materials, cost almost $7000 alone so I saved at least $15,000 http://www.sizes.com/materls/wire.htm#Brown

Id strongly advise NEVER buying a car over the internet (EBAY ETC.) unless you PERSONALLY INSPECT IT FIRST have the seller post photos from all angles FIRST. if it looks good drive or fly to inspect the car!, sure you may be out the travel cost but its far better than being SCREWED.... EXAMPLE my BROTHER-IN-LAW purchased a (NUMBERS MATCHING 1974 BBC manual trans CORVETTE) the pictures gave an impression the car was about slightly above average condition, he bought the car based on the pictures alone!, lets just say....it will require A GREAT DEAL MORE WORK that the pictures suggested, and if he had paid $400 to inspect the car first and lost that money, he would be WAY AHEAD spending 5%-10% of the price to insure your not UNPLEASANTLY surprized, at the cars condition is only smart! the seller KNOWS he SCREWED YOU, hes betting that lawyers and court cost will be more than its worth to fight him and youll drop it after a few nasty letters. getting EVEN, won,t get your money back, and its veru unlikely youll come out ahead (finacially) in court...this is a case where proper preperation, INSPECTION and research BEFORE the purchase would do more for you than any lawyer will AFTER.

http://www.crossedflags.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=21353 you might want to look thru this, it takes awhile to fully load but it worth the wait

"...Methyl Ethyl Ketone...close enough???" HELL NO!! go to your local PROFESIONAL PAINT STORE, TOLUENE, is available at most of them in gallon cans,BTW TOLUENE can and frequently does compose far greater than trace amounts http://europeancarweb.com/tech/0503ec_octane_boosters_tested/ things to read http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel8.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel4.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.vettenet.org/octane.html now some of you guys may not realize it but theres a good deal of EXTRA hp available in a LARGER DISPLACEMENT STROKER ENGINE COMBO that runs higher than comon compression and a matching cam and better flowing cylinder heads , but that same combo can be loosing alot of power if you need to back off the ignition timing to prevent detonation,if your running close to detonation range you might need a little octane booster to keep you out of trouble

LOOTERS SHOULD BE SHOT!,and left to rot! ILL BUY MINE once I find a good product at a reasonable price, but thanks for the TIP, Ill check out Old Navy outlets and ask where they get thier shelving

shelves/cabinets info needed Ok , I just passed , my electrical permits/inspections ETC. and I need info on quality shelves/cabinets that are at least semi-reasonably priced. as ILL be purchasing ALOT of them for the new garage/shop the shelves must be the industrial type 3 shelf design with the metal verticals that allow the shelves to be adjusted easily (the hook/slot type) that hold a MINIMUM of 1000LBS per shelf I bought the last set at HOME DEPOT but they no longer sell industrial quality shelving that IVE been able to find. cabinets HOME DEPOT sells some nice (HUSKY BRAND) garage cabinets but they are WAY WAY OVER PRICED at $1000 for each 10 feet of wall LINKS,AND WELL THOUGHT THRU SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME GUYS, I want this shop to look great and be functional but I don,t want to spend anouther $10K to do it well ID prefer a 24" depth a 96" width and a 72" height but anything close would be considered and yeah I store multiple BLOCKS and heads and cranks ETC. off the floor __________________

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110913&highlight=dynamic+compression

while theres nothing to prevent you from installing one in a (Z) youll need to custom fabriicate NEARLY EVERYTHING, the only problem areas I see are the engines WEIGHT 600 lbs-640 lbs and width which are both more /larger than the typical SBC engine

having built a few 455 buick engines in the past I think youll find this info interesting. IVE never installed a buick in a (Z) but a 500 caddy has been installed as has a 454 chevy so its possiable (but probably not easy) http://www.buickperformance.com/EngineBuild.htm http://www.taperformance.com/newpage11.htm http://www.taperformance.com/Cylinder.htm http://www.taperformance.com/intake.htm http://www.buickstreet.com/455buickstage3.html http://www.buickstreet.com/buick-links.html heres the link to the caddy 472-500 install http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101463 http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8191

http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm heres the one I use...(ABOVE)...now ILL grant you , that you can buy a whole lot cheaper tool for checking tires, but I use mine basically for reading header temps, to detect mixture or ignition problems or missing cylinders and you may not want to spend the money, heres a cheap one (below) http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.2433/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm heres a far better one but still less expensive (below) http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.1443/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm at times they are WELL WORTH THE MONEY in lowering the time and effort required in diagnoseing problems, and yeah! you do get what you PAID FOR in the better models

is your intake manifold manufactured by EDELBROCK??? or a differant manufacturer?? carb mounting locations and clearances DO VARY between manufacturers example, some weiand intakes have greater spacing and allow either mounting style I mount those carbs like you have done, but on some intakes THEY won,t fit due to clearance issues, so you need to mount sideways like the DOMINATOR CARBS as to the vacuum readings going up, thats NORMAL if the carbs are opening slightly slower than the engines rpms and intake port requirements build due to the increased rpms (a good thing on the street) but you MIGHT want to increase the rate the carbs open on a race application,as it indicates a slight restriction to flow(TEST/TUNE & EXPERIMENT)generally youll WANT the intake to pull a MINIMUM of 1-1.5 inches at full W.O.T. (venturies fully open)for a street car, and it usually won,t hurt much on a race car

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/1071/ http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/carbtuning/carbtuning.htm http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/mufp_0501_carburetors/ BTW Ive owned and used several differant AIR/FUEL ratio meters,while they work they are difficult to hook up correctly and generally a P.I.T.A. heres where a infared non-contact thermometer helps diagnose mixture problems very quickly, but youll need one that reads into the 1400F range for the headers for quick diagnoses http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm temperature range from -58 to 1832°F I use this one (above) and youll need to learn how to read plugs (this may help) http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...rue#Post1448415 heres A/F http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm http://www.mummbrothers.com/SRF_Stuff/Secrets/Driveline/Air_Fuel.htm http://www.airfuelmeter.com/english/ http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php http://thedynoshop.net/prod01.htm http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html http://fastrides.com/articles/DoItYourself_AirFuelRatio_Gauge.html http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/Information/AirFuelMeter.asp http://www.3barracing.com/product_3.htm

new Zo6 vette or wait for..this http://www.worldcarfans.com/spyphotos.cfm/spyphotoid/6050701.001/country/gm/chevrolet/corvette-blue-devil-spy-photos With the latest supercar horsepower tango pouring out of Europe, GM can't stand to see the already potent 500hp Corvette Z06 gazed down upon as a second rate supercar. Instead GM is developing an alleged supercharged 600hp Z06 with carbon fiber components dubbed the "Blue Devil" as reported by Autoweek in a recent interview with General Motors vice chairman Bob Lutz. With a curb weight hovering around 2900 lbs. and a price tag starting at $100,000 the European competition should be breaking into a cold sweat as the Blue Devil seen here making laps around Germany's Nurbürgring passes by. Commentary: There is no denying this devil in a blue dress will drop jaws with amazing performance but the best and worst part is the price tag. The price is the best part in terms of having an obtainable super car for non-millionaires. However, the worst part is the absence of status and exclusivity that comes with an exotic super sports car's astronomical price tag. Price it too low and the Blue Devil will never shake that second tier reputation no matter how good it performs. Bargains are for the frugal minded and in the realm of supercars this doesn't mix. It is well known that GM has the capability to build amazing cars of such caliber but in the midst of financial difficulty the Blue Devil is a bit inappropriate

LOTS of notes from 35 plus years of previous engine builds and EXPERIANCE, plus having worked on literally hundreds of muscle cars helps WHY? have you ever found ANY advice to be WRONG?? btw the whole object of using a tunnel ram is to MAXIMIZE the cylinder fill efficiency in the 4000rpm AND ABOVE rpm range, useing direct port ram tuning so the cam timing must match that rpm band and the compression must match the cam timing for it all to work.

tunnel rams generally run best with a tight 104-106 lca and a durration in the 230-250 range, Ive had excellent results with the CRANE 110921 on 350- 383s but youll need about 10.5:1-11.5:1 cpr and 3.73-4.56:1 rear gears , and a manual trans or a 2800rpm-3200rpm stall converter to get the full benefits http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5

how YOU start start by checking for vacuum leaks,and setting the acellerator pump shot to maximum,and BY JETTING ALL 8 carb VENTURIES THE SAME AND SETTING UP BOTH CARBS TO OPEN EXACTLY AT THE SAME RATES. (personally I prefer to set all 8 venturies open equally for racing) you need to equalize the flow rates and minimize the turbulance and fuel/air distribution potential problem areas, BTW heres where a infared non-contact thermometer helps diagnose mixture problems very quickly, but youll need one that reads into the 1400F range for the headers for quick diagnoses you can forget about vacuum advance on the ignition or vacuum brakes as the readings will be low on any correctly set up system, youll also need to learn a slightly differant launch tech. as you generally can,t FLOOR the carbs and hang on, youll need to push the petal to the floor slightly slower allowing the engine to smoothly transition http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm