nullbound

i am both appalled and laughing at the same time. i think my spleen burst.

nice choice!

i would buy from here: http://classicdatsun.com/new/240_glass.html before buying from msa.

looking great!!

that's one of the reasons i've changed my ways and decided to go with everything else being black. the underside and engine bays in all my z cars are getting painted black, with the exterior being my color of choice (silver for one car, honda blue for another, gunmetal gray for yet another...). not only does it allow for other choices in color to be an easier endeavor at a later time, i also feel it sets those other areas apart a little. i personally think my engine bay looks much better in black than it did in silver. it makes the engine stand out more, as well as making the suspension more of a focal point on the underside of the car. just my 2 cents...

that blue is fantastic!! i have been planning to use a very similar honda blue for my 280 daily driver... and that's pretty much what i want my 280 to look like. i have the same front spoiler for it, as well as 240 front and rear bumpers, but with msa fiberglass sideskirts and rear skirt.

wow, i didnt expect to be reading this. good luck with any future plans you may have with any project. what are your selling plans for the car?

yep, should've known...

i like star wars, but this is going a bit far... this is the owner.. just surprised he's not wearing a flight suit and helmet... more pics of the same car: http://www.roadsquadron.com/Cars/Hwing </scary> and other dorks, er... fans rides: http://www.roadsquadron.com/main.html the scariest to me is the darth maul rig... to each his own...

What I have now: 1970 Datsun 240Z - currently stock and in storage with 69K original miles (future restoration/v-8 project - might get the 385sbc currently being built) 1973 Datsun 240Z with Chevy 377 - work always in progress (in my sig) 1976 Datsun 280Z - previous daily driver, now a parts car (possibly a future drag race project for a friend) 1978 Datsun 280Z - daily driver #1 - mostly stock, except for intake and exhaust upgrades; soon to be repainted 1985 Chevy G20 Van w/175K miles - daily driver #2 - soon to be sold to buy something in truck-form with late 90's technology prevous cars: 1972 Datsun 240Z - my first car; restored and driven for 2 years before rear-ended 1974 Datsun 260Z - parts car bought for $50 for good fenders, doors, hood, and hatch - later sold to junkyard for $50 after removing the good parts 1986 2DR Chevy Cavalier - daily driver for 2 years in college; paid $500 for it and drove it until the transmission went 1986 4DR Chevy Cavalier - given to me by a friend; replaced a bad sensor and gave it to another friend 1986 Pontiac Firebird (originally a V6) - lots of mods to body, interior/12 speaker stereo/plus 410hp-400sbc - sold in 2002

you'll also have to trim some metal to get the 240 air dam to fit. it's not just a matter of bolting a 240 air dam in instead of a 280 one....

thanks, mike! it's hard to tell from that pic, but it looks pretty good in person. it's not as good as it should be considering having to wait an entire year to get it back... but, i'm pleased for the most part with the outcome. still so much to do to get it back together...

Looking great, Nick!! PS: I still want your wheels

Picked up my car a few weeks ago from paint jail ... and just shy of a year for that paintjob, too:roll: Here's a shot I took right before the wetsanding and buffing was completed a week or so before taking it home: A few other pics are in my imagestation album at the very end of the album (starting at pic# 123). Reassembly has started, but rather slowly. I have to take the fenders, cowl panel, and hood back off to do the firewall cleanup and painting, as well as to go through the front suspension before putting the slightly reworked engine and new overdrive tranny back (this time it's jtr style). I'll post more pics as work progresses. I was hoping to have it back together and running for the next SEZ meet, but that's just not possible with my current work/travelling-for-work schedule.

so where can this be purchased? i know of an entire hello kitty-themed car that needs this...

leave it alone, man! i had clear covers for my 240 and they certainly were a pain to remove when washing the car. the seals did not fit properly and it was too hard to put the lenses on with the seals anyway. in light of this, i didn't use the seals and was always finding nice suprises under the covers (like pine straw, leaves). i took them off when i sent my car to be painted and will not be putting them back on. your car looks great as is.

seconded...

victoria british sells them and they are sometimes on ebay, but the general consensus here is that you're better off buying direct from nissan for the windshield seal.

that's where i got my last three mesh grilles, too

definitely agreeing with brad. i'm using 255/60-15's on 15x8" wheels with 4.5" backspacing (much more appropriate wheel size for that size tire) with 280z struts and 240z lowering springs.

i like the gunmetal.

wheelman, they will work with your lt1, no problem. a good set of gaskets and you're good to go. i also highly recommend stage 8 locking header and collector bolts. is your setup jtr or hooker? the reason i ask is that depending on your car's ride height, they may be a little lower profile than you want them to be if you're using the jtr kit. my friend has had his set of headers that were in the picture on about 4 different engines with great success at the drag strip (a best of 6.88 seconds in the 1/8th mile with a 400 sbc). now he's going for smaller 6's with those same headers. as far as clearance with the steering arm, his car is a '71 with the hooker/scarab kit, and they are about an 1/4" away from his steering arm. he does have a few marks on the headers from the steering arm touching during some of his high-torque moments. my friend and i both use high torque mini-startes and have had no issues with header clearance. for oil filters, we use the 1/2 quart k&n. sorry the pics aren't so clear. the passenger side header does indeed hang a little more than an inch lower than the driver's side. they aren't equal length primaries, but they are pretty close. for instance, on the driver's side, the 3rd and 5th cylinder primaries are basically the same length, but the 1st and 7th are a few inches longer. they are close enough for gov't. work and having fun, though 8)

no prob, man. yup, still in atlanta. i have these headers, but they are not installed at the moment. the collectors are welded on, but a friend of mine bought his set uncoated, modified the collectors, and had them coated afterwards. they aren't equal length. here's a shot of one of mine out of the box: they're very close on both sides of the block. here's what they look like on an engine (though this set isnt mine): good luck!

opinions vary. i happen to like the speaker panel for the rear. while, yes, i could make it for about $20, i'm glad someone else has the time to make it exactly right for my car the first time such that i don't have to spend a day or so to make it fit right. for me, it's mostly a time issue. i don't have time to fabricate something that someone else has already produced in mass quantities. i'd rather spend more time on the drivetrain.... plus, i bought my speaker panel new on zcar.com from someone else that didn't care for it.. for $75

this is mine, though currently not in the car: 5.25" mids and 1" tweets in quarter panel pods 6x9 rear panel speaker box 2 10" kickers in the spare tire well