nullbound

i installed a fuel cell in my car. one of my reasons was for the dual exhaust. i previously had 2.5" to single 3" pipe and prefer my duals now, especially in my case since the single 3" pipe was choking my top end. i used a 15 gallon cell that i bought from summit racing (part number SUM-290215-SD). there are pics in my imagestation album referenced in my signature of the cell install. if i had it to do over again, i would probably use an ATL well cell so that i didnt have to hack up the back of the car.

i suppose the theme is muscle car....-ish. but, that's mostly due to the wheels and tires.

i use imagestation, but ofoto is pretty good, too.

for installing my 200-4r, i had 2 sections cut out of the cross member to get it to fit without much floor pounding (since the mounting location is farther back).

nicely done! got any engine shots? or shots of the interior and fuel cell?

i would buy this gun.

if anyone is looking for a 200-4r to be used for more of a daily driver car, i have a spare rebuilt 200-4r with 2200 stall lockup converter, tv cable, and lockup wiring kit that i was going to use for my next project. i was planning on building a 330hp motor, but decided to go crazy again with another 450+ hp motor. im not so set on selling it to post in the classifieds... just thought maybe i could help someone out that was looking to go this route. if anyone is interested, pm me for more details.

yeah, put me next in line... that's absolutely awesome!

interesting... and the article mentions 17's for some of the "retroengineered" wheels. looking forward to seeing pics when they are released in january.

that's an error on the bowtieoverdrives website. they copied the 700-r4 data for the 200-4r ratios. they've been doing a lot of changes to the websites they maintain lately. here are the actual 200-4r ratios: 2.74:1, 1.57:1, 1.00:1, 0.67:1 and this is a quote from chevy hi performance mag (taken from http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/46278/index1.html): post 500!

those are cool!!

i've had experience with both transmissions (had a 'beefed up' 700r4 in an '86 trans am with a 400 sbc), and prefer the 200-4r's gearing. as stated above, it can be built to handle plenty of power and it's an easier replacement for the th350 since you don't have to have your driveshaft shortened. you do have to move the transmission crossmember ~5" rearward, though. i got my stage 3 200-4r from bowtieoverdrives.com to replace my th350. definitely check out their info on proper installation and tv cable set up. their "linez made ez" kit is also recommended. they have everything you need to put in a 200-4r or 700-r4 in your car.

i believe you can still buy the engine mounts from hooker (as in hooker headers), but im not sure about the transmission crossmember. msa's kit better than the hooker/scarab kit? i didn't think so when i saw an msa kit up close. but, i agree that jtr is the way to go. i switched from the hooker kit to jtr and will never go back.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2498190698&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1

i assume you mean this pic? that's a lot of wheel!! pretty cool design

i recommend installing the following codec as a first check: http://hellninjacommando.com/defilerpak/

what codecs do you have installed on your pc, tim? edit: also, what are you playing the avi with?

that's great!!

this is how my engine sat with the hooker/scarab kit. if your motor is sitting farther forward than this, it's too far. this is about as far forward as you can go with the hooker kit. pay attention to what the others are saying here... buy the jtr book. even if you're making your own mounts, it's worth the read.

yeah, very nice. would love to have access to a lift like that for my projects.... and the video games and multiple tv's are pretty cool, too, but that might slow my progress down.

that's basically my point. you are going to hear it... even running my car now with open headers (and it is seriously loud this way), i can hear the fuel pump. the way you mount it has a lot to do with the amount of noise that gets transferred inside the car. if it's mounted solidly to the car (even with the rubber grommets that usually come with the mounting bracket... not so good on noise reduction), it will be noisier than mounting it with something like paul pointed out.

which one did you get and how did you mount it? an electric fuel pump is going to make noise....

make sure the fluid level is right, and that the tv cable is adjusted properly. if you need info on how to check/adjust it, check bowtieoverdrives.com's site: http://www.tvmadeez.com/tvinstadj.php if you are still stumped, contact them. they know their stuff. phone calls are recommended over emails.

im also using a carter and it works really well. i mounted mine on my fuel cell box with the included rubber grommets. as stated above, when the engine is running, you can't hear it. mine's a carb'd 377.