nullbound

i drove a forklift for a company when i was in college... that was hilarious!!

looking good! it looks pretty mean with the g-nose and flares. vette rear matches nicely with the rest of the mods, too. come on, mikekz. you used the word 'finished' again... you know they're never finished.

edit: the car looks great!! agreed, i went with bmw titanium silver for mine:

looking good! i especially like the choice in wheels:D

first time i've seen 20's on a first-gen Z... and last time i want to. otherwise, i want to see more photos of the bodywork and interior.

wow, parting it all out? what's going on with the rest of the body?

Solution found. I contacted http://www.datsunrestore.com which initially reported that the bulbs could be found at any auto parts store like Autozone, Advace, Pep Boys, etc. However, when I had visited Advance Auto the day before I started this thread, they could not help me. I simply walked out of Advance with the stock replacement bulb info (Sylvania #97). DatsunRestore then pointed me to http://www.MidnightMoose.com for the bulbs. This helped a lot in my search. I contacted someone at MidnightMoose and got the following info: I was able to search online and found that, as far as fitment is concerned, the side marker lights accept the following bulbs: 67, 97, and 1155. Using this, I found this site: http://www.lightlens.com/coloredbulbs.htm which had the bulbs I wanted. The part numbers I purchased are LB67A and LB67R. Thanks to DatsunRestore and Bill W. from MidnightMoose.com for their help. I hope this info helps for others wanting to do the same clear lens swap.

i have both the clear front turn signal lenses, as well as clear side marker light lenses. while buying replacement colored bulbs for the turn signals was easy (1157's in any color can be found in the fast and furious section of any parts store), i have found little to no info on buying colored replacement bulbs for the side marker lights. the part number i found for the sylvania stock replacement is #97. has anyone else bought the clear side marker lights or does anyone know the part numbers for any colored bulbs for the side marker lights?

there are three bolts holding each one in, if i recall correctly. all you have to do is unbolt them and they come right out. the fronts are easy. it's the the rear shocks that are more of a pain.

after recent release from paint jail: still working on rear suspension, companion flanges sent to ross c for z31 cv conversion, engine still on the stand. pic of car when running in my sig.

that's what i keep telling myself since my car isnt back together yet... that is pretty crazy that you're already planning again, but we're all interested in wherever your project takes you next. now i have to go see about a second job to save up for when your goodies make the classifieds....

yes, the mounts are physically higher. that's why we're using the lowering springs.

cool, thanks anyway. i'll be running 3" all the way, too, and havent thought about the 3.5" ovals.... until now good luck with your install 8)

how's your front suspension? iron heads or aluminum on the v8? i'm switching over from the hooker setup to the jtr currently, but i never thought my car felt front-end heavy. however, when my car originally got the hooker treatment (with and iron head 350), the front springs were replaced with the stiffer rear springs, and the car got new struts and bushings. also, the '73 (same year as my car) with the hooker kit does place the v8 farther forward than the hooker kit in an earlier 240. swapping from hooker to jtr will cost a bit, as you will have to modify exhaust, switch to an electrical fuel pump if your running mechanical, plus the cost of the jtr kit and all the other while-i'm-at-it items that tend to pop up. it would be cheaper to turn your hooker engine mounts towards the rear of the car, cut the tranny tunnel bracing out (depending on the tranny you are using), and buy/make a tranny mount like the jtr kit uses.

i have nothing to offer this thread other than additional drooling. best flares ever...

im putting 280 units on the rear of my car without coilovers. i am, however, using 240 hats and 240 lowering springs. the effect on one of my friend's cars with 15x8's and 245-60/15's is like this:

looking good, mike. what kind of oil pan is that? also, how much interference is there with the passenger side collector? do you mind getting a closer pic of the collector itself as installed? thanks!

here's the route i went: i cleaned my firewall with gunk engine degreaser, sanded all surface areas with sand paper, primed with plastikote engine enamel primer, and painted with a few coats of plastikote black engine enamel. everything in my engine bay was done with spray cans. it's not the best, but my painter didn't want to do the firewall of my car either without additional fundage. i have done similar work to another car with the engine still in the engine bay (just masked and moved what i could).

Grommets. I'm using vibration mounts on my fuel pump like these:

that's looks to be the same hood i have, as does scottie. i bought mine new from JC Whitney for around $400 + $75 for shipping. the company that makes it is called "Legendary Cars".

beautiful work

the oil pan is a milodon 5 qt pan (stock replacement is how it's advertised). my headers are back in the box at the moment (the headers in the pic are the same, but from my friend's race car), but iirc, the driver's side was about 1/2 to 3/4" lower than the pan, while the passenger side was 1.5 to 2" lower than the pan. the measurements are in reference to the primaries, not the collectors. also, these headers are close enough to the block on the driver's side to require using a 1/2 quart oil filter.

the hooker full length header will only work with the scarab/hooker kit that, as pyro mentioned, is not the setback plate kit like jtr. tim240z is using s&s headers which he modified to work with his car, but they will work out of the box with jtr or hooker/scarab (but fit better with jtr). from ssheaders.com: as mike mentioned, they do hang pretty low. Mikelly mentioned 3" of clearance with his car recently with the s&s headers. different suspension setups may yield different results in clearance. here's what the driver's side s&s header looks like out of the box: and on an engine you can see how close the headers hug the block:

if i recall correctly, the cv's from a 200 sx turbo (which will have the 4.11 r200 diff) are the same as the z31 non-turbo cv's. i dont know the difference between the turbo and non-turbo z31 cv's, but the MML conversion kit that Ross C sells is advertised as being for the z31 turbo cv's. as posted earlier, to use the brakes, you will need brackets.