Ledphoot

Trevor, I just bought a set of 67 cougar lights myself... thought I was being original!! Dangit! 1 1974 early 260z 2 sbc 400 cores -complete to build 3 sets of double hump heads- various configurations 1 TCI th350 1 355 sbc that runs 1 2spd powerglide core tranny 1 1985 Olds cutlass supreme t-top waiting for the 1969 455 to be built 1 200r4 GN Tranny 1 stock GN turbo new in the box 1 -1966 Glaspar Avalon boat project. 1 1987 Mitsubishi PU with a built 3.8 buick V6 and way to much el crapo!!

Sounds like it is sucking oil through a vacuum line. Like Pcv valve pipe. See if any vacuum lines run directly to the crancase from the intake area for positive ventillation. Might even have oil returns clogged from head to pan and causing oil to back up in a vent or line and into intake.

WELL>>>> I'd like to say I've never done that but Santa Claus is watching me...Only cost me a somewhat rare 421 super duty pontiac motor with a sweet tri power set up.. I've had a motor suck a grease rag outta my hand and bend some valves too... As the old proverb says.. "Too be old and wise you must first be young and stupid"..or at least clumsy..LOL Gee those stainless intake bolts are tough aren't they??

Just found this kit on ebay as well. Looks like some potential and is available in different colors.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-COMPLETE-POD-STRIP-KIT-LED-LIGHTS-ORANGE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35575QQihZ006QQitemZ160064741427QQtcZphoto

Prime candidate for a SCAT 383 kit forged !. 10008 Crane cam. Edelbrock RPM airgap(good all around street) intake or a Victor JR (more topend less bottom torque) keep it under 10.0-1 compression and keep it cool and premium with modest timing will be fine. A little more timing and race gas at the track. Add a shot of No2 and you'll have a fun run! if you dont mind a little more radical cam thats fine too.. always opt for 1.6 roller rockers or go to a Crane 10082. I'm assuming your not a roller motor. Tunnel rams are cool looking, put it takes mucho cam to make them work and they're not designed for street.. But I still like to run em for looks!!

You might consider selling the built th400 and trying to buy a matched set from a donor car. that way to can grab all the necessary extras that make it work instead of searching for bits and pieces and having it nickla and dime you to death. OD tranny is the ONLY way you'll find 18+ MPG with any V8 sbc. And Fuel injection will be a must for that milage as well.

Ditto Grumpy. also..David Vizard is a great engine builder and even he says 2 bolt mains are fine for street/weekend warriors. 4 bolt is for high and prolonged rpm. Quality machine work and balancing is the key to durability. 383 stroker is an easy, proven and affordable build. I also like the 406 but cooling is crucial with the 400 blocks siamese bores.

I used to have a junkyard special V8 chevy Monza. I had slapped a running 400 with a nasty hydraulic cam and 305 heads on it with a Victor jr intake and 780DP holley. Made three weekends of great passes with a set of used slicks on circle track rims and welded differential and a 411 gear from an S10, 3000 stall th350. Buddy of mine let me "borrow" a 150hp NO2 kit for a "streetcar shootout" at Dunn/Benson dragstrip. I made 9 rounds and ended up finishing in 4th place because I had stiff competition and hit the bottle right out of the hole. I twisted the unibody and popped the windshield right out on the track! I didn't know whoever had the car before me had replaced the shield and used clear gasket sealer to hold it in....good show though... popped the motor the same weeknd at a Sunday run at Roxboro Dragway, car burned in the endfield beyond reasonable repair. I had fun though!!

you could also cut slots in the front airdam and put little LED "slits" behind them. I'm going to fill my tailpanel flat flush with the hatch and do something there as well. I've seen the corvette taillight swap but I'm thinking 67-69 cougar/shelby lights or something. I have the "old fashioned" simple spoiler already. I've chunked the bumpers front and rear and filled the body dimples where they used to fit. I've also filled the side marker lights front and rear and think I may lose the door handles next.

Sounds like possibly detonation or valve to piston interference. How much timing were you running, what compression and what fuel? When you dig out all of the pieces try to reassemle as much as you can and see what king of marks are on the head and piston.. Check the valve spring pressure as well and the lifters for that cylinder. Weak spring and valve foat will slap the valve into a piston as well. Could also have been a cracked piston from assembly, they can hang on quite awhile sometimes depending on how long you've ran the motor and how hard..

Well, that 5 spoke style seems to fit almost any body shape, and if the deal is right, I say go for it!! especially with the 17" upgrade....NICE:2thumbs:

Looks like a perfect fit...Now a coat of Hotrod black primer and your good to go!!

There is a little flat spot on the tips of the headlight buckets. Just below the end of the hood on that flat lip, that screams to me for some kind of trick little led turn signal frenched in. I've been thinking about doing something like that to mine.

Don't think I didnt mark em as "watching" myself

yeah Racerx is right, if they are just "pin-holey" and you can stomp them without breaking through you can use this kind of kit. I've also just wiped em down with rust converter and figerglass them over. Be sure to undercoat the bottoms well to help sea out moisture.

Cant beat a steel wheel for easy to clean and cheap to buy! Amazing what an SOS pad can do for an old set out of the junkyard too!!! Nice wheels!! Why so long to get em??

I look at this guys project as a first timer with limited budget. I know some of you guys can pump cash out hand over fist but I look at everything from a " what is the max for the money on limited funds approach" Sure , you can throw enough cash at it to make it outgrip an Ferrari, but I didn't get the feel that that was his question. I just said that 400hp was no reason to dump money where he didnt need it..

Old early mustangs in the 60's used the 4 lug on 4.5 pattern for all of the 6cyl models. Same as the Z so , yes they fit as far as bolt pattern... Look nice too!!

I actually had a Sb FORD version of this intake, was a Hollman and Moody experimental piece from the 60's made by Edelbrock. Took one hell of a cam to make it work but it made good torque and HP compared to a tunnel ram. I sold it at a swap meet in Raleigh 5-6 yrs ago for $500 and a new set of 10.5 x 15 slick on weld wheels. It sure looked cool on my 65 Falcon (took mods to get it under the hood) but I wrecked it hard at Rockingham Dragstrip and parted it out..maybe I can find some old pics

Bet ya dont see that one on US TV long .... if at all!!

Damn, thanks man I been trying to "guess" what to look for on Ebay..looks sweet!

bored and stroked... thanks Palmela Handerson.....LOL

The IRS ( independent rear suspension ) of the Z models are one of the best points for building great little pocket rockets! My 260 will damn near slap the rear quarters on the ground when I flash launch at 3000rpm w/400hp To think of changing it to a straight axle makes me cringe unless you just want to tub it out for big slicks and kiss all the fast corners goodbye... I've seen plenty of guys slap 400-600 horses through readily available parts that will cost less and be alot more fun than a tube-n-tub job...Ask any of these guys running big blocks building mucho torque and they'll tell ya... I'm still learning, but so far so good!

I think I work there..... LOL

I'll have to agree with Tony. I've gone through alot of so called "worn out" motors picked up cheap from here and there and usually find the bores within tolerance. I have even used .005 over "file to fit " rings to compensate for marginal bores with great sucess. Granted, my experiences are not with Z motors but durability has always been a high point for Datsun blocks of all types in those days..