Ledphoot

That's why I said "Imagine". I can "Imagine" that motor you describe screaming in pain with the NOS before it let go. LOL!! I admit I've built some "grenades" in my time but that was just nuts!! I hope he gave up on engines and went back to burgers..!

I have NEVER had it happen.... I've had the same cam, lifters, roller tip rockes and the same NO2 on 3 crate motors and never had one drop a valve or throw a rod. I've blown head gaskets and stripped a timing chain.

Well I came up with my name as a variation of Lead Foot. My Dad used to get the occasional call from the Highway Patrol to either come and get me outta the emergency room after a crash or to warn him that the Trooper I outran was sure it was me, but didnt get a plate# ( I had a knack for unusual easy to identify cars, Like a red 1964 Comet Cyclone in 1985, or the 351w I slapped in a '75 Gremlin in '84 and the 440 Mopar '53 Studebaker PU I built in 87 after almost 2 yrs recovering from the crash of the Comet (flipped it 7 times on Halloween day 1985 running from the law @ 130+....) anyway I had a knack for oddities and little respect for authority.... still a bit of a problem for me @40yrs old I admit. But Dad would get in my face and tell me my Lead Foot was gonna get my young ass thrown in jail or killed so when I got my first CB my name was Leadfoot. Years later I started building legitimate race cars for myself and called the Team LedPhoot Racing using the variation of LED from "Led Zeppelin" one of my favorite bands, and just to keep it interesting Phoot for foot. My only other nickname has ever been "Jukebox" because I'm a Karaoke nut and sing all types of music. The DJ at the club where I sing gave me that name and it stuck with many of my friends. My Exwife calls me Bastard:malebitch and my new wife calls me Boobie when shes h*rn*y :eek:or somethings broken or there's a spider on the wall...LMAO!!!

I forget that we have to be careful on exact specifics when writing in forum as compared to talking face to face. I also forget how literally some read what is written so let me broaded my comment..... 305 w/stock mildly modified internals will NOT do 9500 rpm and not with "claimer" parts either. I simply meant to reference the fact that circle track racers are using them and abusing them with good machine work as it shows what is POSSIBLE. I didn't say anyone used nitrous or turbos in circle track. I "ASSUMED" one would know the I meant drag racing and I apologize for seeming misleading.. With that corrected, you can build an adequate and reliable engine out of the 305.

OH and NEVER tell anyplace you buy parts from you are using them in anything but a GM car. I tell all of my part places they're for a 70 Camaro or Corvette. I learned long ago it voids the warranty if you claim it as anything but a stock fit. I've won't tell you what I've done with crate motor warranties.... let's just say a 300hp GM Targetmaster can take a .500 lift cam and a 150 shot of NO2 for a full weekend of racing before it starts knocking...LOL

you know one of chevies baddest small blocks was 302 z28 motor. You can take a 305 and spin the PIZZ out of it! Crank is a large journal ( same as 350 actually interchange) small pistons mean less weight. Swap in a good forged piston, prep the rods with good bolts and polished beams have the whole bottom end balanced. Good headwork , Load it with nitrous or turbo or BOTH and zing it to the moon! Alot of the round track guys here are taking advantage of the # per cube rule and building 305 and 334 ( w 400 crank) and twisting them 9500 rpm! Some of these guys are even running "Claimer" parts ( cheap!)

How about we chalk it up to good luck and leave it at that peeplzz

You can easily retrofit a late model 360 and o/d tranny. That will get ya up to 16 or better possibly and add reliability. Gear it around 3.08 add headers and a good ignition system. Nice thing is that it will still look stockish with the TBI Mopar uses... I'd make sure I stock up on light lenses as I find them and maybe some body chrome. Anything else you can find or retrofit as time goes by.

Have you spoken with the city about any beautification interests they may have in the downtown area? I know here in Raleigh NC they gave anyone willing to build businesses to renevate downtown all kinds of tax breaks and building assistance. The city may even buy your property at a good price and you can build your "playhouse"..LOL In a safer / cheaper area. I had a place in town once and someone cut through the metal wall and loaded everythig I had. You could see where their truck bumper drug the ground going out of the drive!

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/WE6524.html check this out before you decide. Clarke is a decent welder with available parts when needed.

HAPPY NEW YEAR HYBRIDZ BROTHERS AND SISTERS!!!!!

Saw off the front airdam, cut out the roof scoop and replace it with a sunroof, slap a 500 Caddy in it, prime it black suede and beat the PIZZZ outta it..

240z' I pull a boat trailer I built with mine. I also have replaced the tounge on my car trailer with it as well. I "V" the places I want to weld and fill it in at high heat. If i am doing more than this I have a stick welder I drag out. Just for repairs I wouldnt be afraid myself although anything over 1/8 is pushing it unless you "V" notch it for penetration.

I bought one of those "cheapy" foreign built 110v migs from a flea market seller in 1991 to use when I had just started doing bodywork part time in the corner of a shop in a junkyard. I figured if I could put in 3 1/4 panels before it died I could make money on the deal at $199. It was flux or gas and I used flux wire to save $$. I ended up doing salvage reconstructs for a man that dealt in nothing but RX7s for the next 2 yrs building 2-4 cars a month and other work on the side as well. That welder is now at my friends shop with a "homemade" switch and you have to hold the lead as straight as you can to get a good feed but it still runs a bead to this day!! I know for a fact I've burned 50 rolls or more of wire and made many 1000's of dollars before I replaced it. It was used exclusively for sheet metal work and an occasional exhaust or header repair and to build an aquarium stand for a 100 gal aquarium. I kept it clean and kept wiring tight and used the proper lubes and sometimes had to take it apart and replace a wire end or such but it held up well for my investment. The $1500 Snapon I replaced it with lasted 3 yrs and had several replacement parts and then I had a heat selector knob burn up and no one would touch it so I rigged it to work on one setting and keep it as a spare. I now have a $450 hobart 140 110v and love it!

It just makes sense to me that any info gathered from this testing can be applied to street cars as well as track cars...and I totally understand the need for this to be heavy toward the racers needs......so, although I have one old Z I intend to dragrace and play with..... I'm IN!

ahhh yes!!! Breaking stuff is a good sign of progress! Now your hookin' up and puttin' power to the ground!

Well I'm going to do the Toyota 4 piston upgrade and the 15/16 MC so I should be ok with a SBC and the larger booster.

Make sure you convert to a 4:11 rear as well or it won't get out of its own way....

I have always found the TECH line at Crane Cams to be very helpful. I know most of the better cam builders have tech lines to call. I've never run a blower but have always wanted one. I'm idea rich and cash poor on all of my builds..LOL Blowers work with rpm so build with high rpm in mind... maximize flow with bigger valves, large tube headers and good hot spark to ignite the large volume of induction forced in by the blower. Good pistons and a healthy bottom end are a must if you run high boost. The 144 is limited so I think it is a good street choice and was intended to be a weekend warrior streetable piece... Enjoy!!!

Or an old MGTD replica? They already use pretty good mustang suspension and such and can be found cheap.

I've always used old school parts so I'm lost on this one. Can you use the newer LT1 reverse flow heads on an older sbc block or do you have to modify the cooling system or ???? I am looking at the 94-96ish heads and wanted a cheap aluminum swap.

Mopar i know a guy that did that with a Toyota pu. He put an Eldorado 500 and transaxle in the bed and left the 20r up front for ballast. Then he put a solid camper shell on the back to hide the motor. He made home built headers that seperated each 2 cylinders and ran 4 1 1/2 inch tailpipes with glasspacks so it sounded like a swarm of bumble bees. He had a blast with that thing and won a few dollars as well...He finally popped its cork when he added 150 shot of NO2 and eventually it ended up on the pile of broken toys... I knew another guy years back did the same thing with a Javelin and a Toronado drivetrain.... that was interesting as well.

could be as simple as a burned plug or bad plugwire. Start there. Leak will burn a valve sometimes so fix it quickly as well.

Thanks JT!