Drax240z

All the finer details aside. "No holds barred"" "Weight is king" The decision is right there.

Yeah those hand shears are worth buying for sure, most will do up to 1/8" plate no prob, or 1/4" round, etc. For less than $100 they are a steal.

Closing in on zero mods. You may want bigger valves in some of the earlier (E31, E88) heads, otherwise it's a straight swap with the others.

E31 E88 N42 P90 P90A Would all swap with what I would call minimal mods. I would along the lines of putting an N42 on your 81 N/A engine, which should give you a nice bump in compression ratio.

Great idea! Looking forward to following your progress.

The saturated look can work really well, to my eye though this is a little over the top. Tough to do with a blue car, but it is a good way to get drama into the sky. I find blue cars tough to shoot in open areas because of that. If you're shooting a red car it's easy enough to over saturate the blues and get that dramatic effect in the sky without the car looking retouched. If those are straight out of the camera shots, I'd dial back saturation in the camera and add it back in post-processing as desired. Shot #4 could do with a little bit of flash (even the on camera one) just to lighten up the rear of the car a touch, doesn't need a lot... obviously the sky is exposed well though, nice drama there. I think my favorites are #4 and #9. Take lots of shots and fiddle, it's a great hobby.

Looks great Scott!

Try a little less saturation in camera or in post...

Nope, stock-ish 72 240z from a guy named Drew. He even let me crash in his spare room overnight!

I did something similar, flew to Regina, SK and drove back to Vancouver Island. It was a great experience, and the best $1200 car I ever drove. Bought it off a hybridZ member too, though I don't see him around here anymore. 1,906km according to Google maps, not quite as long as your trip.

They were thinking of dozens of things that hadn't yet been invented, and trying to put those things together into something else that hadn't been invented yet. I challenge you to do the same, and check 50 years from now how correct you were... let us know the results.

That's what John was using... anything newer is beyond his technical comfort.

As soon as I saw the thread title, I thought of this machine and was going to add it to the discussion... I guess it IS the discussion!

Did you just have 1 run to confirm these issues? could also be a heat soak issue as I see your later run was the one with the horns...

All my dealings with him in the past have been spot on, if I was in a similar situation as you are with him knowing what I know, I'd give him the benefit of the doubt at this point.

OK, it's been a long time since an update. It's been a busy time around home, that's for sure! On June 20th, we had a minor interruption to progress on the Z: Our first child, daughter, Maxine was born... But there has been intermittent progress on the Z up to and since that point as well, my goal is still to fire it up this year and spend a few days breaking it in before summer is up. Last major hurdles were some fabrication work to complete, and now that the wastegate is mounted and plumbed, straight WG dump pipe is in, we're officially just reassembling. Hopefully I'll get some time in July to wrap things up, though my time is obviously limited to a few hours here and there as time permits. At this point the todo list isn't that bad though, and I think a few hours will go a long way. I am going to have to make some adaptions to my intercooler piping and air intake, but we'll take that on as we get there.

Time well tell.... we'll see how Rick makes out with his silver state classic car. 200 might be pushing it for that car too, even for a fully prepped high speed street car.

Dry out the inside of your distributor cap first, it's easier and also causes those type of problems as well as what is mentioned above.

Makes me feel much better hearing that! Delcity, mcmaster carr... either of those should have what you are looking for. I've used these in the past: http://www.delcity.net/store/Screw!type-Terminal-Blocks/p_73274.a_1

Great build, nice attention to detail. Please oh please, provide us with some video clips soon!

A bit of advice for panoramas: Put your camera in manual mode and keep the exposure the same for each shot. ie: if you take the first shot at 1/60 and f4, take all the shots at those settings. This will really help you with meshing the photos afterward. Also, overlap each frame by about 1/3. This lets you clone out undesirables, and make the connection line non linear, which is much harder to see in the finished product. Photoshop CS3 has a nice panorama function, works pretty well in my experience. There is other freeware out there that will do a good job of it as well.

Anyway to answer the original question I would use a relay triggering a distribution block, and wire all the gauges in parallel to the distribution block.

Screw the gauges, you need to concern yourself with how your shoulder harness are mounted first!!! In no way is that bar sufficiently strong enough, and it's also way too high. Should be pretty simple to fix, but it's offering you false safety at this point.

Great info on filter types here, and some decent experimental comparisons: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

Great shots BRAAP! I think I need to spend more time in lightning country to really try it. We get about 1 storm every couple of years up here it seems... and not a big one either.