Drax240z

Let's hope that is a 0.045" gap. Fiddle between 0.030" and 0.045" and see if you have any misses. Run 0.045" if you can get away with it without any misses.

Haha, I knew that because 5 minutes ago I got a phone call from UPS saying the package was delivered.

It will be very difficult to find 13" wheels that will clear the ZX brakes. Keep that in mind. Generally the smaller the wheel, the lighter it is. It has a smaller moment of inertia and allows the car to accelerate, brake, and change direction more easily. It also means that you need a taller tire to maintain the factory size. A taller tire means more sidewall flex, and is generally undesireable for performance. (to a point!) The other reason to go with larger tires is so that you can package larger brakes inside of them. ie: trying to fit a 13" rotor in a 13" wheel isn't going to happen! But throw on 16" wheels, and all of a sudden you can run really big brakes. To my eye, the Z always looked best with either 15" or 16" wheels on it. 14" seems too small, and needs too much sidewall for the right size for spirited street driving in my opinion. If you are building a track car, things change a bit and often you can get away with a smaller diameter tire, so 13" & 14" becomes more of an option.

Ditto about the injectors, all you need to do is add (or remove, depeding where you start) the inline resistor pack.... a 5 minute job.

Hehe, the yip yip's rule! I scoured the internet for them a couple years back and came up with only a couple sound bites... no video sorry.

Too bad Jon, I just sold a pair of AP racing calipers with 1.125" thick rotors, and 6 sets of pads on Ebay for $345. It would have been pretty easy to adapt to the Z too! For a dedicated track car I'd look beyond poly bushings in the rear, especially at the outboard end. Try getting some Delrin or something more solid than urethane... it will probably be something you'd need made for you but I think it would be worthwhile. Buying a welder would be my suggestion. (probably ~$600) It will get you a lot more for your money than any other mod. I know they are expensive, but check out Ross's 13"/PBR brake setup. It's just awesome and is my first choice for front brakes!

I highly recommend Isuzu Turbo Impulse seats. Very nice, lightweight, and quite adjustable. (adjustable side bolsters in and out is a nice feature) I'd be using those but I got a good deal on a pair of Recaro's.

That's great SHO-Z!

I like the blue! Much easier to read. Engineered to be feared just rolls of the tongue nicely...

My experience is that I'd prefer to run more timing and less boost up to a point. For comparison, I was running ~12psi boost and a timing curve that was something like 20* initial, ramping to 36* total, and -1.5* per PSI boost leaving me at about 18* total timing at full boost. Then I made some mods and dropped the boost down to about 10 psi, and added in a bunch more timing under boost. Probably -1* per psi, which left me at about 26* total timing at full boost. The results were similar in power, but with 2psi less boost being run to achieve the same power... more efficient with my setup for sure and less heat generated. However I am sure there is middle ground somewhere between the 2 that will work well with 12psi boost and still a significant amount of timing. Joy!

My experience is that all Datsun related rumours floating around the internet are wrong... There are a lot of things stated as fact out there by people that have just no idea at all. One nice thing about Hybridz.org, 90% of the people that state something here actually know something about it!

Funny.

Lookin' good Roggaman!

Say it ain't so! I keep using you as a good example of what a well engineered Z can do, and I was hoping to be able to say you ran 9's. I hope you stick around and that we get all the details on the next hybrid project, whether it is a Z or not! BTW Pete, I see you sporting a new 1/4 time, nice.

Race Car Vehicle Dynamics, by Milliken and Milliken is all you'll ever need.

For the life of me Aux, I know that code but I can't remember what video game it is!

Just to let you guys know, we have just done an E31 head with a .508 lift cam at the shop, and we used these Ford 2.9 valve seals. With the .508 lift there were issues with the stock sized valve seals. I'll try to remember to update this thread once the engine gets driven some, but the first 20 minutes seem good.

FSAE car... 600cc GSX-R motorbike engine, unrestricted in a 577lb car. 0-60mph in 3.9sec 1/4 mile in 11.89@112 (Gear limited) :D 1.45g's on the skidpad. :D We never did get the brake distances on the g-tech but they were pretty phenominal too.

I've seen a couple of accident photo's of bolt on wheel adapter Z's. One had the front right corner bent in such a way that the wheel was still attached to the strut, but was basically parallel with the hood. Bolt on wheel adapters were just fine in this case, but the rest of the car was hooped. The only pitfall with these adapters are making sure the inside nuts stay tight. Locktite recommended here since you won't be checking those nuts as often as you would the outside ones. Other than that, they are great.

Austempering is an interesting thought actually... The only problem is that high end valve springs are often alloy (chromium-vanadium, chromium-silicon) to resist shock load failure and I don't think that the austempering process works so well on high alloy steels. (could be wrong!) However, I suspect that the nissan springs might just be a high carbon mild steel, in which case it is an option. It could be an expensive experiment.

3/8" feed, 5/16" return for me. Plenty of fuel for 99% of the L-series turbo's out there.

External oil and cooling lines shouldn't be a big deal at all, motorbike engines do it all the time. Looking good!

My only comments are to find a machine with adjustable pre and post flow, and something water cooled if you plan on doing a sizable amount of aluminum and/or heavy steel parts. You can get away without water cooling if you are doing just little things in aluminum and steel. I've built 2 complete cars at this point with a Hobart (can't recall model number just now) that wasn't water cooled, and while it would have been really nice at times doing the bigger stuff, (custom CV axles, aluminum uprights) it isn't necessary for the bulk of the use. James just sent me some info on his Miller Sycrowave 250 and it looks like a great welder to me, and the price is right.

3.0L... I'm thinking RB26 bored and stroked.

Damn, and I thought TimZ's engine was all show! Great stuff TimZ! Talk about a sleeper!