lifegrddude

I tried the contact cleaner on Sunday and drove the Z yesterday, but it was still sputtering and bucking under boost. Well, today I worked as fast I could to get out of my lab/internship and go to the local pick-n-pull. I got a harnes out of a 300zx like you suggested Vinh, and swapped it in. Lo and behold, the lean boost, saggy power condition is gone! WOT throttle reads rich on the A/F gauge and the power is nice. I have some mild detonation under high boost mode, but I think that has to do with the AFM setting, plug gap, or maybe the fpr setting. I'll deal with that later, so for now I will just use the low boost setting on my ProfecB. Thanks a bunch everyone for the help and suggestions. It's been close to 4 months since I've been able to floor it and not lose power.

Thanks for the info everyone, I'll look into this problem over the weekend and hopefully get it solved, but with the semester winding down it might be ~mid-May before I enough time to take things apart and examine them closely. VihnZXT- were the 300zx harnesses a direct swap for the wires, or did you have to rearrange the order of them at all? Also, were the harnesses from a turbo or n/a Z31? I'm just curious as I know I can easily find a 300zx in the yards, a turbo 300 will be a little harder to find, but the 280zxt's are getting rare here in San Diego.

Check http://www.takumiproject.com, they specialize in importing j-spec wheels, but they are kinda pricey. Check club4ag.com and drifting.com in the classified ads section, people are always selling wheels there. 240sx.org also has some wheels for sale every now and then too.

Well, I'm on a 1/2 hour break for my classes and figured I would post about a recent problem that seems to be getting worse. It's something to do with the top harness that plugs into the ecu. Lately, under boost the a/f gauge will go lean and the car will have no power or sometimes ping. If I play with the harness some (it's random, I just wiggle and mess with the wires), I get lucky and the a/f gauge will read rich like it's supposed and the power will be there. Sometimes this problem will completely cut the power out and make the car stall while driving. I'm wondering if anyone knows which pin could possibly be giving me problems as it seems this issue is getting worse because the lean/no power condition happens every time I drive, unless I play with the harness. I don't have my FSM with me right now, (it's my parents' house) but I'd really appreciate some help, even if it means I have to splice some new wires into the harness or find some junkyard turbo harness clips to replace the ones on my Z.

I couldn't sleep cause that issue was bugging me so I took my Maglite outside with me and worked on the Z, and now it runs. Thanks for the suggestion, turns out it was what you thought and a bent ecu pin that kept the idle rough. I straightened the pin and fixed the loose injector clip and voila, instant smooth idle. Can't wait till morning now so I can crank the boost up to 11 psi and see how it feels.

I have been messing with my adjustable fpr (Aeromotive) for about an hour now and I can't get the car to idle at all. I've adjusted the afm for the 370's (18 teeth leaner) and tried fuel pressures from 25psi all the way up to 40 with no luck. It just sputters and I have to give it about a 1/4 throttle to keep it from stalling. The weird part is that if I give it full throttle, it falls flat on its face and backfires out the afm... Any ideas as to what's going on? I'm wondering if maybe a wire on the ecu harness is giving me fits since lately I've had to push on the harness sometimes to get it to run right under boost. It's too dark outside now to work on my Z, but I'm hoping to have this fixed before my classes start tomorrow. Push come to shove, I'll throw the stock fpr back on and see if I have any luck with it starting. Thanks a bunch for any advice and help. John 82zxt

Try running some of those turbo Neons, they're pretty fast out of the box for a fwd econobox. And the Mopar upgrades on those things makes them fast from a roll, from a dig they suffer from wheel hop. You could always try running against the STIs and Lancers, or the new GT Mustang and GTO? Cadillac CTS-V was pretty fast when I drove it. It was a little slower than the C6 I got to drive too.

There was a place in Florida that advertises on zcar every so often with their pricing on fuel injectors. Something like 20 bucks a piece. That's very cheap since places like Autozone, Kragen, NAPA, etc charge ~40-50 a fuel injector.

Do you still have the driving aids on? If you put the understeer and oversteer controller to 0, the car will be really easy spin. Makes the NSX a bear to handle during high speed turns.

You'll want the brown top ones. The green tops only flow 30lb/hr instead of the 35lb/hr that the brown ones flow. John

Thanks for the help, I guess I'll set the pressure at 40psi and go from there. Bleach, I'll give you the part# as soon as it arrives, I can't remember it right now. John

Check your plugs for fouling too, if they are soaked from too much gas they will have a hard time firing. Do they smell like gas or have a bunch of deposits on them? Try what is posted above though, it could be a fpr going out on you. Check your coil, just a thought, but it might not be providing enough power, and just in case, replace your fuel filter it could be clogged as well.

Hi, I recently bought a fuel pressure regulator from Aeromotive that's on its way. I figured I'd ask a few questions to make sure I'm doing this correctly. I have 370cc injectors and a Walbro fuel pump currently. When I install the fuel pressure regulator, what pressure level should I run? I was thinking of setting it to 43psi at idle since that is what they are tested at, but won't that make the car run way rich? I am sort of concerned that if I lower the psi from 43 that it might affect the spray pattern of the injectors. Is this even a valid thought? Also, when setting the idle fuel pressure, do you all set it with the vacuum line disconnected or connected? (sorry for the noobie questions, I just want to make sure I'm doing this right) I plan to run about 12psi on a t3/t04B turbo with a Spearco i/c. I still have the stock afm and ecu too if that helps to clariy things a bit. A big thanks in advance too! John

I'll be there for Sunday's show, I might be able to make a meet before hand though. It all depends on my lab schedule (stupid internships work you to the ground since they know the labor's free!). Anyway, it'd be nice to meet some of you all. John 82ZXT

91 octane pee at .8 kg/cm2 of boost. (~12psi) 255Lph Walbro pump with 370cc injectors. Stock regulator and stock EFI but I am running an i/c.

Turbos on Hondas are pretty quick, depending on what motor is in that hatchback. I think the hardest part for you will be to pass smog because no legal turbo kit has been sold for an EF style hatch. If he has an engine swap B16/B18 you might be able to pass if it's a Greddy or Edlebrock kit, they're the only 2 manufacterers I know that produce 50 state legal kits. 250whp will be solid 13's if you can get it to hook up off the line. If there's a main advantage of Hondas, it's their light weight. Definitely check the condition of the CV's and tranny before you buy it, and especially the motor mounts, they're not very strong from my experience w/ my friends' Civics. John

Here's the entire instruction manual for the Profec B, I think the external wastegate setup is on pg. 10. http://alltrac.net/manuals/GreddyProfecB.html John 82ZXT

Lol, to make it easy: http://classicdatsun.com John 82ZXT

Dip switches for an external wastegate are: 1 up 2 down 3 down 4 up If overboosting occurs and can't be fixed via the balance knob, use: 1 up 2 down 3 up 4 down John 82ZXT

I may have to go this route too since my motor was damaged when my fuel pump died and I need to get my Z back up quickly for school. I talked to a guy selling an n/a motor that he said put 190psi on all 6 cylinders for a cold compression test, but to me that seems a bit high. Are those #'s correct? I thought n/a motors put ~175psi. This motor is a stock 83 motor by the way. Just want to know if maybe he's trying to blow some smoke by me. Thanks. John 82ZXT

While we're on the subject of Walbro pumps, I am going to replace my dead pump with a Walbro and I'm curious to know if the Walbro is going to increase fuel pressure above stock from the old pump. (ZXT pump) I don't have an adjustable pressure regulator yet (saving up for it). Do I need to adjust the AFM settings aka will the Walbro make me run any richer at idle and cruising if it does increase fuel pressure? Thanks. John 82ZXT

Hahaha, that was pretty funny, those GP people are always on my campus soliciting and trying to get others to join their club. One time I was rushing to class and I was stopped by one of them for a function they were holding at the beach. I just said, "No thanks, I barely have enough time for my Z." The guy responded, "Yeah me too, sleep is hard to get nowadays huh?" I held my laughter long enough to nod and walk away from him.

Hey, I've driven an 03 spec V before, since my lil bro has one. They are pretty decent cars for the price, and are good overall/daily drivers. They actually come with a 2.5 liter motor and the six speed is the same tranny used in the newer six speed maximas. They handle pretty good too...IMO they are the 4 door Type-r's (with more low-end tq) that never made it to our shores. Other than a notchy tranny, I think they are a good buy for those looking for a daily driver with some power and handling behind it.

Interesting article. I just got done studying a lot about this type of treatment in my biochemistry class last semester. Contrary to common misconception in gene therapy, the HIV isn't going to give you cancer, if I read correctly, they have pulled the sequence of the genome that encodes for the "bad" part to put it in simple terms. Most likely the reverse transcriptase was altered. (enzyme that works in allowing the retrovirus to make copies of itself and what ultimately leads a person to getting full blown AIDS). Cancer arises from mutations in your DNA during normal processes, or if it damaged in other ways i.e. UV light, carcinogens, etc. It's inevitable since mutations are what progresses evolution, and that's why cancer is not something that will be magically cured forever with the technology we have today. (sorry I'm not being a pessimist, just stating a fact) They are using the virus as a vector to transplant a piece of dna that is complementary to whatever it is they are wanting to link up to. However, the setback is nothing is ever 100% efficient and sometimes the vector doesn't link up with the correct protein since some proteins have very similar sequences to one another. I don't think testing in humans should proceed until they can do it other mammals similar to us with a higher success rate since we still don't fully understand the functions of the body yet. Genomics is still in its infancy and time is what is needed. John 82ZXT

First check the lines to the turbo itself and make sure they are secure and the hoses are in good shape. You might have a leak from the hoses.