lifegrddude

MonkeyT88, I have the dvd at home. When I get off of work today, I'll look up which volume it is and let you know.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I used one of those long flexible magnets, but to no avail. I did find the washer by using a speaker magnet, and I have it by the drain plug, but it's too big to come out so I'm going to have to drop the oil pan to get to it. I wish I could just flip the car and shake it out! Life would be so much easier!

Kind of a small possibility, but is the ground wire hooked up to the side of the dizzy? Very nice work though!

Wow I want to kill myself haha. I was installing some ARP head studs on my Z, and with moly lube on my fingers, it made things a little slippery. I ended up dropping a washer down the timing chain cover... Do I have to take the cover off to get it out, or does someone have another solution? I have been trying to see if I can fish it out with a magnet, but so far I haven't had any luck in the last 30 minutes. I really hope I don't have to take the cover off! And here I was, thinking I'd finally be able to get my Z running today.

In case you do decide to buy an adjustable fpr, I got mine from Sard for about 90 bucks and it's 1:1, and you'll be able to set the base pressure anywhere from 25-60 psi.

The guy I got it from had bought it for an 84 ZXT, which makes me believe I can use it as is. Thanks for the input, I'll give JWT a call this Friday to confirm!

I currently have the Z31 ecu/MAF setup following Afshin's write up on my 280zxt. I recently purchased JWT's 450hp setup, and my question is do I have to convert my wiring back to the stock setup (minus the FPR since the wiring is the same as JWT). Is Afshin's Z31 wiring setup compatible with JWT's ecu? In the write up, you were required to change the coil wiring setup, but JWT's instructions make no mention of this. Anyone who is running the JWT setup, I'd appreciate any feedback if the installation was pretty much plug and play, and what you did regarding wiring. Thanks in advance.

Challenger, you will be fine with the bov venting to ATM even during auto-x. I had my blow off valve venting and all it does is run rich for a split second, but it wasn't too noticeable except at idle. I never had my Z stall when I tried autocrossing or just daily driving around town.

Sweet pics! I just saw the Lambo drive by me today in San Diego while driving to the mall.

From what I remember seeing growing up, the GTS-t would run a high 14 in the 1/4. I have no idea what they run for 0-60.

Welcome to the forums. The swap is pretty straight forward as a bolt in swap. The only thing to be sure is to pull off the flex plate, and install a pilot bushing. If you forget to remove the flex plate, the clutch won't engage properly. Good luck!

I guess it depends on how much work is done to that K20. I've seen a few of those hatches with the swap that have touched the high 12's and low 13's at Fontana. I'd still rather have the RB motor though, even for the exhaust note alone. =)

Looks like a Vortech bypass valve to me. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=25

Can't go wrong with a Civic especially if you want to keep costs low. As long as the timing belt has been replaced, you usually don't have much to worry about on them. Otherwise I'd say go for the 240sx or Miata. The euro cars will cost a little more for maintenance parts at your local parts store.

From what the voice in the vid said, it's a '79 ZX. The wheel and tire combo are mimicking the 70's style where stretch tires and "oni-cam" (lots of negative camber) were the popular looks. Reading the ad, it's got fiberglass doors, hood, and fenders.

I'm guessing he meant to say R32?

Doesn't really matter where your bov is mounted as it does its job regardless. Clifton is right in that it's just compressor surge. You're probably at the surge limit where the turbo is moving more air than the engine can ingest at that moment. It happens to me on occasion during part throttle boost at lower rpms. You'll see it happen as the boost gauge will fluctuate rapidly. It used to be worse for me until I got myself a Trust Profec B boost controller and slowed the response on the wastegate.

For ~300 you can just get yourself a decent intercooler and a t3/t4 turbo along with some supporting modifications for the fuel system. It has been done several times by people on the forum, use the search feature and I'm sure you'll find at least 5 setups you can follow. As stated above, using a little bit of punctuation and proper spelling will make things a little easier to understand.

QR motors are decent motors. The early motors were notorious for oil consumption and head gasket issues, but the later ones are fine. The head flows more than the SR head, but it's the connecting rods that are the weak point on those motors. I've met a few boosted SE-R Spec V drivers here in SD, and with a modest 8-10 psi, they ranged in hp from 265 to just over 300. That's pretty good in my book. There is one guy in Arizona who made a QR/SR hybrid motor and is over 500 hp.

Actually the bumper produced by Super Star Aero is different from the one in the link you provided. The side ducts are different as well as the center is not divided like the one by Aerotech. Super Star's is a bit boxier on the side and seems to match the bumper in the first pic of this thread. The style is similar to the NZ bumper, but they are not the same. zxtman and Silentnight, you're welcome guys. Silentnight, if you do find out where they are located, let me know as I really would like to check their place out whenever I visit Japan again.

zxtman, since you asked about what I came across, here is what I found. I asked my gf if she had time if she could ask these guys if they do still produce the kits. As far as I know from looking at their website they do. The name of the company is Super Star Aero. Here's a direct link to the page showing both a front and rear bumper. http://www.super-star-aero.com/page010.html The front bumper of the S130 is on the 2nd page, first row and third one in the row. The rear bumper is on the first page, 1st row and on the very right as well. They also make side skirts and a rear wing too. The contact email listed from the page is super-star@a.email.ne.jp and their number is 0120-82-1286 and fax is 0120-831-86. I couldn't find a location listing on the page, and since my keyboard doesn't type in Japanese, I'm limited in my google search and on Japanese car forums about this company. To the best of my knowledge, they are the original company making the kits. Sorry if this has been a repost as stated by another member before, but I figured if one person wanted to know the info, that's good enough for me. Cheers.

Oh ok, n/m then!

Greddy/Trust still makes them, but it's very expensive, and there is a wait to get them since they don't stock them here. If you're serious about getting it, call them at (949) 5888300.

It didn't make much of a difference on sound for me when I swapped it. You could hear the turbo spool a little easier, but it wasn't much louder inside. I went to a cat because the fumes during stop and go were killing me. I think at my hp levels that it's not robbing too much power anyway.