lifegrddude

The coolant line is there so the tb doesn't freeze in the winter and get stuck. It can be bypassed if you live in an area where it never snows (like here in San Diego).

Good luck with the install and welcome to the site. Here's a link for the S14 SR20det fsm. (blacktop motor with the notch at the end) I don't think the S13 is on the web. From what I hear, you can buy the manuals from people on ebay. http://www.zilvia.net/faqs/fsm/S14_SR20DET_FSM.zip

Welcome to site, nice 350z. The pic with the mountains in the back is pretty cool.

Is the wire from the little condeser hooked up to the distributor plug that faces the radiator? I couldn't get mine to crank over once because the wire had disconnected from the bullet plug.

On my older Profec B, there was a set of dip switches on the side that you could use to set to another setting if overboosting was a problem on the standard dipswitch setting. I don't know if the Spec II has that or not, but it could be something to try if it does.

It might have been packed on the freeway due in part to the Hot Import Daze event that was going on too. Getting out of that venue was a nightmare!

I wish this were a post about farting! Anyways, thanks for the suggestions so far. I tried a different tps and it did not help the problem. It continues to idle perfectly fine, but as soon as I go to 2000rpm it keeps sputtering and under light throttle and will completely cut out if I floor the throttle. I redid the wiring to the ecu connectors and maf, I've tried two different ecus and a spare maf, but nothing has worked. I'm beginning to wonder if maybe it's the distributor or maybe a weak ignition module? Any thoughts? Thanks.

I tried a new fuel filter, but it still sputters when giving it gas. I checked the fuel pressure, and it never changes, stays at a constant 28psi. I can't get the engine to rev over 2K rpm whether in neutral or while driving. I can't press the gas pedal down at all while driving or else it bucks and sputters. When the Z is in neutral, if I keep the gas floored to the 2K limiter, it will eventually die after misfiring for about 5-10 seconds. The ecu keeps varying the trouble code. On some occasions it will say a faulty crank sensor, and other times it will flash multiple codes such as maf and chts. I tried using a spare maf and ecu, but the problem remains. Does anyone know which pin on the z31 ecu is the one for the crank angle sensor and which pin is for the chts? I want to double check those wires' conditions. Thanks.

Hey everyone, I've gotta bit of a problem on hand with my Z. Here's some background on it: z31 ecu swap, Crane ignition system, new fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, etc. I drove to a friend's house and my Z was running perfectly fine. After we installed a push button starter/switch combo (as a theft deterrent), I can't get the Z to drive under load. It idles perfectly fine, but the moment it is moving and I give it any kind of throttle pressure, it sputters and practically dies. When I let off the gas, it idles fine again. I tried disconnecting the harness plugs a couple times, but that didn't work. I'm thinking it might be an actual wire to the harness since it ran fine before the push button installation... Any ideas which wire/wires it could be on the harness to the ecu? Or could it be something else? Thanks.

Bastaad, yep I did the swap about 6 weeks ago. The wiring only took about 2 hours to do, but I had to troubleshoot some gremlins before I had it up and running perfectly. I don't know how much of a difference there will be for the swap, since if I remember correctly you're using an 81 harness, but it can't be too bad!

Btw, if you are ever in SD and need help with the Z31 swap, I'll be glad to help you out. I'm just returning the favor since I got so much help from Afshin and the others when I did the swap.

As far as I know the ecus are the same. Didn't the 83 have more initial timing though? I looked on the hood of an 83zxt and it read 24* btdc and mine is 20*. I think that's about the only diff.

Okay, here's some quick stats on the Z32. http://www.junauto.co.jp/democar/jb-z32/?en http://www.junauto.co.jp/democar/jb-z32/spec.html?en

If I recall correctly, the Z32 built by Jun and Blitz went over 410 km/hr at Bonneville in the early 90's. I remember seeing a bunch of posters about that car in local speed shops when I was growing up in Okinawa. I'll try to find some more info.

I have mixed feelings about the new Charger. I remember when I was high school and they showed the concept vehicle of the Charger in '99. The concept car had more of a retro design dating back to the old Chargers than this new one does. I wish the new Charger had a different front end, it looks a bit too much like a cross between a Mustang and the Ram trucks to me. http://www.conceptcars.it/usa/charger.htm

Yup, shook the lab I'm interning at up too. It's funny to hear all the glass beakers and vials rattling, makes me feel like I'm in a movie or something.

It's compressor surge, not a leak. I noticed it became more audible when I went to a fmic setup as well.

Hi, does anyone know the size of the hose that connects the oil return line to the oilpan? I'm going to a local truck shop to get some hose, and since my Z is my only ride, I can't yank the hose off to measure it. Is it 1" or 3/4" inside diameter? (those were the 2 sizes quoted by the person on the phone) Thanks.

Yup, I've played it a little bit, definitely a fun game. I like how the exhaust notes resemble the real cars more than GT4 did. I'm not that far into the game though, can't wait till I get the 240zx (haha, can't believe call the Z a ZX). Right now I'm just driving the S14 Silvia. The AI seems a bit tougher in Forza too, which is nice since they will try to spin you and tag you back if you bump their cars during the race.

Try loosening up the afm by a few teeth, I had to set mine at about 12-14 when I had 370's. Otherwise it was like I hit a wall during acceleration.

Thanks for info, it took a while to get everything sorted out, but now the car runs. I haven't taken it on a test drive yet, however it revs freely without sputtering. The only thing I have left to solve is the ignition. I can't get it to turn off unless I yank out the bottom plug on the ecu out. I guess the m/t ecu's have a slightly different setup than the a/t Z's. I'll look into this a bit later since I have to start up work again tomorrow. Anyway, thanks again for the writeup Afshin, it definitely made the swap 100x easier. John 82ZXT

n/m about my previous post, I found dacelooper's old post on zcar. I do have a problem of getting my Z to run though. When I first started it up, it ran on all 6 cylinders but after about 30 seconds of idling, it stalled and the plugs were fouled. I tried to adjust the screw on the side of the maf leaner, but it didn't help. Even after putting in new plugs my Z will only fire on about 1/2 the cylinders and I have to keep the gas floored to get it to idle. I'm going to take a look at my wiring to see if maybe I screwed up somewhere along the way. Also, my tach isn't functional, it just jumps around as if I've added an aftermarket ignition box. I'm running 370's at the moment and my Walbro pump is wired to a kill switch, would that mean I have to still do the pin swap on 108 and 16? (I have done this, but I'm curious as to if it is actually needed) I did notice that with an a/t ecu on my Z (a/t as well) my ignition will shut off when the key turned off. When I tried a m/t ecu, the ignition would shut off once on. I had to pull the bottom plug out to shut the car off. Anyways, any help or advice on cracking these problems will be appreciated. John

Hi, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a Z31? I have a Chiltons manual and a FSM for my 82zxt. My Chiltons book doesn't have a wiring diagram for the Z31 unfortunately. (maybe those pages got ripped out by the previous owner) If anyone can shoot me a pm or email me (awamori99@hotmail.com)the diagram, I'd appreciate it a lot. Thanks.

Give a friendly call to the dmv's line for smoking vehicles and he can get a smog inspection, haha, that'll surely rain on his parade just for the expense and annoyance of going through the procedures.

Sorry for the delayed response. Afshin- yes I just cut the harness before the ecu connections for the 300zx harness and inserted new pins into the 300zx harness since it needed 3 wires to complete the transfer. I plan to do the 300zx ecu upgrade this summer sometime though. Hopefully the summer intern people won't kill me with extra hours. I will probably be asking you a lot of questions when I begin that project since some of the pictures in the sticky no longer work. lol Vihn- Thanks for the other suggestions as well. I'll see if any of those are the problems as soon as finals over (next Thursday). I will be changing out the head gasket soon (and most likely do the 300zx ecu upgrade at the same time) this summer since I think I saw an oil stain coming out from the #4 cylinder, and my coolant overflow goes dry every 3 weeks. If you do stop by San Diego, let me know, the first round is on me haha. You're more than welcome to hang out here anytime!