Georgia Flash

There's an article in the January issue of Car Craft magazine that talks about this very thing, well sort of. It talks about a new type of hose created by Earls called "Pro-Lite 350 Braided Hose." The hose is black fabric braided nylon it says primarily to reduce the weight of the line in racing applications. It goes on to say "despite this, Pro-Lite maintains a 350psi operating rating and the same temperature range as stainless (-40 degrees F to 300 degrees F)." The article talks about the hassel of cutting the stainless line vs cutting this new stuff. Oh and by the way Tim was right on the money with his chisel and block method that he suggested for the stainless line. According to the article that is what a fellow named Tom Neely from Earl's Store #1 in Lawndale, CA recommends using, a sharp concrete chisel and a block of aluminum for a crisp, clean cut. First wrap the end of the line tightly using duct tape at the point to be cut before cutting with the chisel or heavy clippers. Before the ends can be assembled on the hose, they should be disassembled for lubrication. They suggest using Earl's own liquid lube, engine assembly lube or engine oil for this. "Without the lube, the aluminum fittings can easily gall," according to the article. The article starts on page 56 and gives a blow by blow pictorial of how to install the line. By the way folks the new black line looks great!

Great idea Pete! I think that will be my method of choice. ND240, I do not know how easy it would be to slide the transmission into the cradle once it was all welded up inside the tunnel because of the angle that you would encounter. Plus if you ever had to take out the transmission you would have to pull the engine with it because the mount would be welded to the car. I would not go this rout also because I can remember having to replace my broken tranny mount on an older car I had in the 70's.

Great post Miles! I also have the MSA stuff and I have already been wondering how I was going to get to the bolt on the the motor mounts once I started dropping the engine into the bay. Also on the tranny mount can do you have enough room to use a small punch and a hammer to help locate the mount holes? I was thinking that maybe you could jack up the tranny as you have suggested and from the underside of the car hit dead center of the mount holes with a punch. Then you could drill the holes from inside the car using the punch indentions as a guide. I will be pulling the stock inliner and tranny when it gets warmer around here and then I am going to mock up my V-8 engine and 700R4 in the bay before sending them off to be rebuilt.

I will have to chime in for a second on Ross. I purchased a rear disk brake kit from him last year and he was very prompt on the email responses. I later inquired about a coil over set up (via email) and again I received a very quick answer to my questions. Now I did not try to call him nor did I even ask for his phone number so I guess that wasn't important to me at the time. The bottom line is this, I bought from Ross once and I would buy from him again. As far as MSA is concerned I have had a nightmare getting some parts shipped in a timely manner with them. But then again I have had pleasant experiences as well. I once joked on the phone with one of the techs that I probably should own stock in their company by now.

Evil if you were closer to Georgia I would give you the shell of my 1975 parts car. It is not even close to being as bad as either of the two sets of pics that were posted by the two members above. In fact it was going to be my Z8 before I purchased the blue 76 Z, which doesn't have hardly any rust at all, floor pans look brand new! If you feel like coming to GA with a trailer you can have it (the 75Z). It is stripped but if you wanted to transplant some of your parts from the rust bucket onto the 75 it would work.

Try this web site to help you identify your engine: http://www.mortec.com I hope this helps

Ok the burp thing will only last maybe ten to fifteen minutes at the most. That is why we have to wait 20 minutes before giving a breath test to someone. TWENTY minutes after each burp! What this is called is mouth alcohol and the machine we use anyway will detect this mouth alcohol and give an invalid test. The machine is calibrated on a regular basis and if found to be faulty it is taken out of service. So I doubt if the old defense attorney BS about "how the government will use these faulty machines to convict you of a DUI" holds water (taken from a George stein the DUI lawyer commercial). And while I have never been to a micro brewery I have drank my share of beer, wine and yes the hard stuff. Most cops will take a portable alco sensor to parties with them. This is why I know for a fact that I can drink a beer an hour for at least 4 to 5 hours and never even get close to a .05! Let a lone a .10! I am a small individual and my wife is even smaller. She is about 5 feet 1 inches and weighs about 115lbs! The highest i have ever seen her go was a .08grms! You might want to say that I have conducted my on field studies on this matter. However, I knew that as soon as I defended the system on this site I would get raped just like I always do. This is one of the reasons that I have stayed away from here so long. Gentlemen I may not have the V-8 Z running yet because I do not have the technical knowledge as some of you possess but rest assured I do have the knowledge when it comes to my day job. I have never drank two beers in two hours and registered over a .01. I am speaking from experience here.

Keep in mind that while most states have a legal limit such as a .08 or .10 grms percent for their DUI laws you can still get hooked up for driving with a lot lower Blood Alcohol Level. This generally depends on what type of driving that the officer witnessed you doing at the time he stopped you. You would be amazed at how many people say "I have only drank two beers officer," when they are pulled over. In fact in most cases where a DUI arrest has been made they have drank a boat load more than two beers. As far as "passing" the field sobriety tests goes, I doubt that many people can see the eyes of the violator while the officer was doing the Horizontal Gaze Nystagmus test (HGN). Providing of course the officer is certified to do this field evaluation. The eyes never lie and this is one test that can not be faked because the person being tested by the officer has no idea what the officer is looking for in the first place. This is also one of the most reliable field tests that police officers have to detect impaired drivers. The other field evaluation tests recognized by NHTSA are the walk and turn test and the one leg stand test. Both of these tests can be "passed" by persons who drink on a regular basis, although not always. This sometimes fools the casual observer into thinking that a person has passed the tests when in fact they may not have passed the HGN exam. In Georgia which has a "per sae" limit of .08 grams percent means that if you get stopped by the police and you blow a .08 or higher you are DUI, period! This is regardless of the field stupidity tests that you pass or fail on the side of the road. In closing I just want to add that no one no matter how big or small can blow a .10 grams percent after just drinking two 12 oz. beers. Unless maybe they sucked them down very quickly back to back such as through a funnel. Then and maybe then they could blow close to a .10 but I do not think so. I base my opinion on the fact that I worked as a DUI Task Force member from 1996-1998 and made well over 350 DUI arrests during that time. I heard all kinds of excuses and yes the "I only had two beers" excuse was right up near the top.

Yep I have said it on here before, it is not a pretty site to see someone dead under their car. I know I have seen it before. A 16 year old crushed by his NASCAR style race truck. He was working alone in his garage and using only a hydro-jack. The jack slipped and the truck came down on his neck and crushed him. Bad thing is the kid had about 8 sets of jack stands lined up against the back wall of his garage when this happened. It was a sad thing to see. Be careful I have also been told about the crubling block issue before.

Kit came in the other day! I was very pleased by the packaging of the the radiator. The upper and lower brackets also look pretty good as is without any paint. I still haven't made up my mind yet if I will paint mine or not. Ah the parts that I need to start my conversion are getting shorter. However, I am afraid to set a dead line like I have in the past. I was supposed to have a running V8Z by August of 2002

Hello Darryl, That sounds like a much better deal than what the guy in Acworth offered. I still have to do some checking around here before I make my final choice. By the way I still have you in mind when the time comes to wire up the 350 in the Datsun How's your car running? Do you have it painted as of yet? If so I would like to see some pics. Take care. Charlie B.

Thanks guys, the kit should arrive soon and I will of course tell you about it when it gets here. My package from Bowtie Overdrives arrived yesterday

Just a quick question. I am about to replace the front pump bushing on my 700 R4 is there anything I need to know or can I take a hammer and screw driver and remove it like I did the tail housing (rear) bushing?

I ordered the same kit a while back and the front steerring rack bushings did not fit. They were way to big to fit in the slots. I ordered two from Motorsport Auto and they fit as good as the stock rubber bushings. I did not use the stock tranny mount bushings because I will be using a 700 R4 tranny.