Tony240ZT

I'm running about 13 pounds of boost on a high mileage stock L24 bottom end with a P90 head. t3/t04b turbo, medium sized front mount intercooler, 280zxt electronics, 370cc/min injectors, 2 1/2" exhaust. I'm using the turbo oil pump, oil cooler, and turbo head bolts. My compression ratio is pretty low 7.56:1 though, and that helps a lot. I've had pleanty of fun with my setup, although I do plan to go with a L28ET bottom end at some point. If you haven't turboed before using a crappy block to learn on may be a good idea. That way you learn what you should do when you go lean, or ping. The learning part is what takes life away from your bottom end.

Usually retorque after 2 weeks or 500 miles or so. Probably wouldn't hurt to do it now.

The OD of the larger TB is 3", the old one was probably 2 3/4", so the J pipe would have to be modified probably. If you want the car to really perform you'll be wanting to install an intercooler, which will force you to replace the J pipe anyways. You can buy aftermarket TB's probably for the price of a bran new mercedes tb..

Pretty pricy living in the Bay area isn't it? Would rather be living in hicksvill if it meant I could mod my car.

Maybe ScottyMIz will see this post and tell you how he used the stock linkage, and didn't have to mess around with the TPS like I did. I mounted mine upside down because it seemed to be the easiest way to do the throttle cable hookup, I had to reverse the outside wires on the TPS plug to fix the issue with the throttle body being turned around. As shown in the pictures using a rat tail file you simply file inwards on the mounting holes, then plug that PVC hole with something, or use it for a blow off valve port. It's not much work to get it mounted. I'd say it takes more time to port match. I had no problem going 65mm on my intake manifold, and I think there are about 3 other people on this list that have had no problems. At first it looks questionable as to if there is enough room, but there is.

Something to consider: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/engine/mtb.html

MKIII Turbo injectors are 440cc/min and are low impedance and should work with the stock efi system if you can accomidate that large of an injector some how. They are o-ringed, and probably need some way to be pressed down into the bungs..

Hey, I'm in Bakersfield, bring it on over this weekend, and look at my toys.

I'm thinking the digital inputs/outputs on the AEM are probably counters (like square wave inputs), or it simply senses if something is on or off. Digital inputs would be like RPM, WOT.. Digital output would probably be used to pulse a air bypass for either idle control or boost control, also it should be able to turn on NO2, or a secondary fuel pump/fans, whatever. Here is the data sheet on the ADC I use: http://www.national.com/ds/AD/ADC0831.pdf It explains how it uses 3 wires to transfer the data in and out. The actual frequency that I get the ADC data is dependant on both the processor and chip. I had no problem trying to get data as fast as possible out the ADC, so my processor can't over ride the ADC's i/o speed. The ADC chip and the pic micro both talk TTL which means 0v is low (0) and 5 volt is high (1). I just spit out the data in tab delimited format, with returns after each reading for the set of ADC's collected. This is easily imported as as .csv file into excel. Then writing functions in excel you can convert the numbers to voltage levels, load levels, graphs, or whatever. Check out http://www.basicstamp.com/ for an easy to use pic micro setup. You can use basic to program it, and you don't need any special hardware to program the things, just a pc and a serial cable. The BasicX looks like a Basic Stamp on steriods. If you get into the stamp I can help with setting up a system similar to what I have, also I should have a BasicX today and I'll start playing.

I've talked with others in detail on my swap, and my web page has some pictures. Should be enough to get an idea on how much money you'd spend, and what skills are required. http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/

Actually I just found a new chip that I think I like a lot (just ordered one) called the BasicX at http://www.basicx.com/ it has interupts, 32bit math, built in ADC's, real time clock, multi tasking all built into it's Basic programming language. The 8 bit ADC I was using is called ADC0831CCN by National electronics. I talk to it with the PIC mirco by shifting in and out bits over a 3 wire serial protocol (TTL (0v is low 5v high)). There are a couple options, but the most important bits are the 8 that give you the voltage level. The chip work from 0 - 5 volts (digital count 0-255), but you can use an op amps (like a commen anolog 324 or 740), and resitors to size up any DC voltage level to within this range. I've set it up to read in the MAF info, then produce an anolog voltage level using a Texas Insterments 12bit DAC TLC5618aip, no reason for 12 bits, 8 is best I can do really. Same way of talking with it as I do the ADC, shifting bits over a serial protocal. Again, I can use an op amp to up it's output voltage above 5v if need be. Currently I'm just running full balls out at computing and spitting out this data at 9600 baud. With this other chip that has multi tasking built in I'll be able to do other things while talking over the serial cable to my computer. If you know how to write programs in VB to communicate with the serial port please fill me in on the details, this is something I'd like to write so that I can make a real time data logging graph. I know how to write the graphing setup (done pleanty of drawing), just haven't jumped into serial i/o yet. Also would be nice to be able to modify a visual map on the computer, then upload it to the BasicX, I should be able to do this in real time since the chip is multi tasking now.

Has to be 200% better than a starion intercooler.

Yep, cam timing could do it. It's done it to me before when the chain slipped. Damn broken cam timing tooth, replaced cam wheel found tooth, put chain on, all is better.

This logger I built is pretty custom. I'm using a PIC Micro 16 bit processor that runs at around 25Mhz, along with a couple 8 bit anolog to digital chips. And then I just have all of the data spit out at 9600 baud onto a terminal program, log it, save and then import into excel. It can even drive a digital to anolog chip to generate any voltage level I'd like to trick out the stock ecu. This is the whole idea of this little piggy back computer system I'm making to convert AFM cars to run on MAF. I'm slow at getting things done, but I'll get there. I'm wondering how much of the cpu power I should put to each sensor. I wonder if I should queue every sensor I have on every cycle, or maybe just some more than others. I'll post more data as I get it. I think I know how to convert the nissan ecu pulses for rpm into a digital number with my chip, just wondering where to take it from. I guess right at the wire that plugs into the coil trigger. If I hooked up fuel injector drivers I could probably directly control fuel. The processor doesn't have interupts, so it may be a waste of my time trying. When you don't have interupts you have to constantly check to see if an event has occured (like what degree the crank is at), with interupts the processor can be doing other things get a blip from the crank angle sensor compute that and then go back to what it was doing before. We have some old Motorola HC11's here that might do the job, just not much fun dealing with 8 bit. I need a cheap processor that is easy to work with that has interupts and 16 bit computation. Okay, I'm out of geek mode now. Back to motor head world. Just put a big carb on that thing, with a wild cam. Oh wait I went too far. Boost, intercooler, nos! okay, back to normal.

You're right, sounds like you're going lean. Definately try replacing the fuel filter. Does it have any problem starting when it's cold, or rough idle? If a fuel injector wasn't pulsing the car would still start, but would run pretty rough. Would be nice if you had the that fuel presure gauge in a place you could see it. When I'm having issues I'll run a long peice of hose up so that I can strap the gauge on the cowl, leaving the hood only latched to run the fuel line through.

Can't wait to hear about Scotty's turbo ninja

I didn't realize you could put a different Y scale on the right as well, pretty cool. I figured it out and scaled my o2 meter output like you did yours with my data logging. This info was taken in from my custom data logger I built using a 25Mhz PIC Microprocessor and 3 8 bit resolution anolog to digital chips. Not sure on the exact frequency of logging, but I think it keeps up well with 9600 baud 3 digits for each. I'm working on getting RPM data logged, and I could use a manifold presure sensor, just not sure where to look for one. Don't those 2nd gen rx7's use one? Maybe I could use one of them. My air/fuel ratio is all over the place, this is due to the fact that my injectors are too large for the AFM. The car was running off of the AFM at the time the logging was done. Here's a link: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/pics/maf-afm.gif This data is only for a short period of time, from the looks of it enough to be on it twice. As more air passes the intake the MAF voltage goes up, and for the AFM the voltage drops as more passes. I think to make the data more usefull I should put a capicitor/resitor in along with the AFM since it jumps around so much.

My orange 240z has a L24 that is turboed. Stuck a P90 head on it. Compression isn't any lower than stock L28ET compression it's 7.54:1. My turbo is water cooled, stock 280zxt turbine/housing, with a t04b .60 A/R and V trim compressor. I have a cheapo starion intercooler on the car and my engine management system is based off of a 280zx turbo setup, which I played around with, not because of the L24 being there, just because... I'm different. I'm using the turbo oil pump, and turbo head bolts (they are stronger). Just a note, the L28ET's piston/ring config is a little different, and are better suited for turbo application, but the L24 seems to be hanging together just fine.

I don't need no stinking A/C or Radio! Hehe.. Since I used the A/C holes in the block I think you'd have to fab up an A/C system if you did it the same way I did. Not sure I'll put in a radio, just depends on how good the car sounds. Power steering would have to be custom. You know, maybe you should get a Supra. Already has all the comfy stuff installed (like automatic climate controle, PS, P Windows, P locks, P mirrors, tilt, P seets, etc), as well as the 7M-GTE power plant. I love my `87 Supra Turbo as a daily driver. Even comes with a good LSD rear end, ABS, vented disk brakes, 16x7" rims ready for much larger. Bolt in exhaust, bolt in intercooler. Not a bad looking car either: Like I said, the shifter is off of a MKII Supra, will work fine. My web site has links to Wolf3d as well as some other EMS's.

That had to be tough welding the rails onto the sheet metal. When I was replacing some of the metal in the floor boards of my car I kept burning through, then having to go back and fill in. What a pain. Looks like you must have gotten a hang of it. The driver's side looks expecially well. What engine are you putting in there?

There's a Maxi here in town I'd love to do the same to, what's a pinch bar?

I didn't have to cut the dash any, just had to cut foward a little where the shifter pokes out. Here is a pic before I took metal out for the shifter: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/nshifter.jpg Here is after: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/mounted/shifterhole.jpg Here is with a MKII supra shifter/boot: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/mounted/shifterboot.jpg The intercooler is a little bit bigger than the other picture makes it out to be, here is a link to a picture that shows the bottom part a little better. It could be a bit wider, but I plan on getting a good amount of air to the oil cooler over there, as soon as I have one. Managed to pick up the intercooler shipped from japan for $375 http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/prep/frontICshot.jpg If you have the money to get a custom one made go for it. Here is that pretty TRD clutch setup, with a stock flywheel. This was taken right before I put it in with a new through out bearing and idle bearing: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/trdclutch.jpg I was lucky and found a guy that bought this to install in his car, but ended up selling the car before he installed it. I probably will run the car with stock internals for a while, so I doubt I'll see 600hp in the near future, so I haven't given breaking an R200 much thought. I figure the LSD R200 with CV's will do just fine for me even if I make 450hp. As you can see in the shifter photo above I have the Wolf3D v4.0 to control the engine. I'm using the stock coil packs, a modified cam possition sensor. The Wolf3D is configurable through the hand held device and a laptop. For more info on it check out my links page off of my home page. I have a fuel pump that supports 500hp, from Accel I believe, with -6AN (3/8") line feed and return. I'm still running the stock fuel rail and stock FPR, and probably won't touch them unless I need to. OEM fans are generally pretty good. If they fit, and cover most of the radiator area then they are probably up to the job. I have junk yard fans on both of my 240z, 2 small ones work very well.

My intercooler is a HKS model from Japan used on the Supra over there that came with the 1JZ-GTE engine. It is very similar shaped to the HKS 7M-GTE intercooler. I only picked this one because I found it for a good deal (well, for a HKS unit) and it would flow the amount of horse power that I wanted (not because it was for a supra). As far as fuel tank mods there are a couple options. I tried going the cheapest way possible for the time being, so I modifed the tank pickup: You could also stick in a `75 280Z tank which has baffels, and I've heard it bolts in easily. I'm sure while you're at it though you get tempted to replace all of the rubber up under there, and I just didn't want to get into that tangent. Another option would be to use a surge tank (that's what it's called right?) where you have a high volume low presure pump fill up a small tank, then have the fuel injection pump run fuel to the engine from there. A properly setup one will ensure no air gets picked up. With my setup I have to keep some gas in there, or else I'll pick up some air when going into a corner hard. The stock head gasket works just fine up to 14psi or so. If you plan on doing more you'll likely be doing quite a few other mods, such as replacing the turbo, installing head studs, installing larger injectors, making sure you have an intercooler that can handle the air flow. A 1mm head gasket should do. You only really start messing around with that stuff if you change your pistons, or have take off a lot of metal when doing machine work. One other thing that should be considered is cooling. I have 2 electric fans installed on a 3 core radiator. I would like to still upgrade to an aluminum one, partially to save a little weight. Electric fans are a must with this setup. I will probably have $5k in the engine setup after it's running on the road. My engine/trans was $1350 (flywheel resurfaced), engine management system was $1500, fuel pump/550cc/min injectors/fittings/hose was about $250, $450 for my TRD clutch (holds 500hp), exhaust system will probably be well over $200, $200 for CV half shaft setup, I still need a blow off valve, had to buy an alternator and starter since they weren't included on my engine. Now start adding up the nickle and dime things and I may be over what I figured. We had another thread on this site where we were talking about running to the hardware store, relays, wire, metal, it all adds up. Hope to be upgrading the turbo, installing ARP head bolts, metal head gasket, R200 w/LSD (this is a must). I may be making my own intake manifold so that intercooler piping is less cluttered and so I can install a larger throttle body.

There is a noticeable good sounding low sucking noise that comes along with a clean K&N. It just sounds like a healthy engine sound. Its most noticeable when you punch it. It's not a noise that is anoying. You will notice better throttle response and a little bit of gain in horse power. Just keep cleaning it and oiling and it will last a very long time.

Motor mounts are going to be custom. I used the rubber part of the mounts from an `87 supra to start out with, then built off of those. Modified the stock supra tranny mount by cutting off the ends where it used to bolt onto the chassis and then welded on "wings" that would bolt up into the tranny tunnel. Drive shaft, going to have to put the supra and the z car shaft together. Have a pro do that. Exhaust I haven't run yet, will be running a 3" system, going to cross over from the passenger side to the drivers side after the tranny. Use what ever muffler you like. Jspec trannies are the same as the US ones, although I think all you can get is an auto from over there. The autos aren't nearly as strong as the manuals that came in the turbo cars. The non turbo tranny is not as strong as the turbo one. I put an autometer boost guage in where the clock used to be. Can't remember the size, but if you do a search you'll see posts on that kind of thing. Also people fitting after market tachs and speedos, but it's not necessary. Here are my engine mounts.. I plan on stiffening the passenger side one up a little bit. I bolted into the engine where the A/C and the power steering used to be mounted. Driver's side: Passenger side: These pictures are from nearly a year ago, and sadly not much has changed since. I hope to get back at it very soon. I think I have the cash to finish it up now.