zcarnut

http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=3023

Good news: Nissan still has NOS front windshield glass seals. Bad news: Price. Almost $200 at your local Nissan dealer.

I’ve used the 15" Panasports with the Toyota calipers and there were no clearance problems either (i.e., no wheel spacers required).

Yes, you can use a single long bolt and nut. But you have to drill completely through the lower alternator mount as the existing threaded holes are only partially drilled through. The present bolts are 8mm diameter. You can easily go to a 10mm diameter bolt if you want as there is plenty of available material in the mount and then re-drill the alternator mounting holes. BTW, you have to change over to a single 10mm diameter bolt if you ever upgrade to the larger (105+ amp) Maxima alternators.

Here’s a new RHD dash (for a hefty $1500): http://rides.webshots.com/photo/69798402/1347612357028880569TFDNOF

The 280ZX ECU module just controls the FI (fuel injection). The cruise control is handled by a separate module located under the passenger seat. There are no connections between the two modules. Like the Jeep, the ZX has a separate wiring harness for the FI components. I would think it would be easier for you to get a used ZX FI wiring harness rather than trying to get the Jeep one to work.

I hate to piss on your parade, but as an electrical design engineer who works with power electronics every day I would like to point out several issues one should consider when you are upgrading the fan motor: A larger rated CFM fan motor will always draw more current than the stock fan motor. My guess is the Maxima fan motor is rated at 240W (or more). The motor rating may be printed on the side of the motor (common Nissan/Hitachi practice). Look at the size of the wires coming out of the Maxima motor. You should use equally sized wires in the wiring harness (good for at least 20 amps) and appropriately rated connectors where needed. The fuse size should be increased to 20A as well. Unless you upgrade the wiring, you are creating a potential safely issue. In addition, unless you use larger diameter wires, the voltage drop across the existing wires and connectors will be such that you will not have the full voltage (12.5V to 13.5V) available for the motor. Why upgrade the motor and then “strangle†it with small diameter supply (dc link) wires? You should connect the cooling duct for the Maxima motor. Like most high rated electric motors, the Maxima one has an opening for an air duct on one end of it. This allows some of the pressured air (from the outlet vent) to flow through the motor, thus cooling it. Dissipating 240W in such a small volume with out cooling will cause a large temperature rise in the motor windings again causing a potential safely issue as well as reducing the life of the fan. The “speed control†resistors for Maxima motor will also have to be upgraded as well. The stock Z resistors are only rated for the 160W (or about) stock fan motor. Better to use the Maxima resistors or better yet use a PWM fan controller circuit (much more efficient). This already may be what the Maxima uses to control the fan speed. Finally, the added current draw of the new motor may require an upgraded (higher current output) alternator. I’m all for increasing the anemic performance of the stock Z fan motor (I use the 200W 280ZX fan motor in my 260Z), but let’s do it correctly!

I have used All Bright Metal Finishing before for small parts, but I do not know if they do bumpers. They're located in Newark, NJ. http://www.allbrightmetal.com/index.htm

I agree!

I do not recall seeing such a hub. A photo would help identify them.

The stock Nissan pistons have the centerline of the piston pin offset by 1mm with respect to the piston centerline just to reduce piston slap. However, I have measured some aftermarket pistons that do not have this feature, so as a result the piston slap noise is correspondingly higher.

I have rebuilt over two dozen Toyota four-piston calipers and I only use the Beck/Arnley brand. Excellent quality. One thing I like about them is that their seal securing rings are plated (yellow dichromate) to resist rust whereas the other kits just use a bare steel ring. Ask for Beck/Arnley part number 071-7173. This kit will do two calipers.

You can use the ZX booster with the spacer and without cutting studs. It just depends on how much room you have in the engine compartment. With my triple carb setup space is limited and the ZX booster just fit into my 260Z:

No. I use the ZX brake booster on my early 260Z with a five speed manual transmission. No clearance problems with regard to the clutch master cylinder. The ZX boosters do have the same bolt pattern as the ‘74-‘78 Z cars.

Make sure you are using the thin metal sheet (or shim) that is located between the pad and the piston. Although the primary function of the shims is as a dampening device to reduce vibrations (brake squealing), they are also useful in reducing the heat flow from the pad backing plate into the piston. The stock shims are usually stainless steel which will reduce some of the heat flow. An improvement (as some racers are doing) is to use shims made from titanium. Titanium has roughly 40% the thermal conductivity of stainless steel. It’s fairly easy to cut out the correct shape from some titanium sheet stock.

The R200 input bearing (Nissan PN 38335-N3100) is a Koyo type 83601A. It is a single row deep groove ball bearing with dimensions of OD = 73mm, ID = 28mm and a length of 16mm. I talked to a Koyo engineer about this bearing about a year ago and he informed me that this bearing was specifically made just for Nissan. My suggestion would to use another bearing and have a collar machined for it so it could be used in place of the 38335-N3100 bearing. An SKF type 62/28 bearing has the dimensions of OD = 58mm, ID = 28mm and a length of 16mm. So you would require a collar with an OD of 73mm and an ID of 58mm (length of 16mm).

The oil could be coming from the plastic vent tube on the top of the rear cover. It’s not unusual to get some venting after some spirited driving, especially if the diff has been slightly overfilled. You can check the level of gear lube by removing the filler plug and inserting your finger. The oil level should be just below the plug hole opening.

Does anyone else remember the early 1970's article in Hot Rod Magazine where they put a Chevy small block into a Toyota GT2000?. Nice hybrid. I wish I had kept that issue.

Actually, there are several other hubs that use the same wheel bearings as the Z car. The 1970-89 Z used a fairly common inner and outer wheel bearing set. BMW, Toyota and even some GM vehicles of the 1970’s and early 1980’s come to mind. I have a full list of applications somewhere on one of my floppies. I will look for it. A concern is finding a suitable inner grease seal that will work. I have used BMW and Toyota (early Supra and Cressida) hubs on the Z car struts. However, these hubs were the four-lug type. If you want a five-lug hub then I would pursue finding one the suitable GM hubs (which I have not investigated).

Instructions (with photos) for modifying the 240SX throttle linkage can be found at: http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/tbs_linkage.asp

Yes, the L series distributor spins counterclockwise (when viewed from the top). There should be three wires coming out of the automatic distributor: the two pickup signals and a common ground (which should be the center terminal on the wire connector).

The automatic distributor has an “advanced†pickup and a “retarded†pickup that have a 7 (or 8) degree phase (timing) difference between them. When you are in DRIVE the advanced pickup output signal is used by the ignition module and when you are in NEUTRAL the retarded pickup output signal is set to the ignition module. This was done only for emissions. The switching between the two pickup is done via a relay. Nissan did this mechanically because in 1978 the analog electronic circuit needed to accomplish this function would have been somewhat complex and therefore expensive. Nowadays this is easily done via a digital controller with a simple software routine. Therefore, the second pickup has nothing to do with increasing the dwell (the time period that the primary of the ignition coil is being energized). Just use the advanced pickup output and leave the other one alone.

Two concerns with these 1982-84 Maxima rods are the [smaller] piston pin diameter of 20.0mm (all the other L series rods have 21.0mm) and the use of the weaker 8mm diameter rod bolts.