CableSrv

Fort Worth TX. So managed to clean up all the metal edges on the driver side, jack up my panel and mark all the areas that need to be cut off. Also marked off the area to slice for the finger forming to contour to the inner trans tunnel. Then finally got it tacked up. Man this has gone so much faster welding it in and getting it prepped knowing what needs to be done before hand. Since there was no guess work, it's already fully tacked in and just needs the frame rail installed then finish welding everything together. However I'm low on argon again... down to about 400 psi out of a 1750 fill. So hopefully I can finish tacking in the frame rail before I run out, then pick up more this weekend to do the finish welds on everything. The driver side has a lot less rust in the kick panel than the passenger, however there are still a few areas I think I should cut out and replace but much smaller overall. So I think I should be done with the major rust fixes soon and can really focus on getting the engine in, tank sump installed, and cutting the fuel lines as needed and installed. then engine harness/chassis harness.

Added more pic's to the main album showing the huge hole capped on the passenger side. Also finally cut out the driver side and doing metal prep this time to make sure I have clean metal on all areas of the weld. And since I've learned some tricks such as the cutting fingers in the sides to allow clean fitment to the trans tunnel and back of the floor pan, I can premark the floor pan where I need to cut for fingers and how much extra I need to cut off as waste. https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd

bolt holes will be the same for all LS engines, the issue comes from the oilpan and accessories which you can easily swap out for other versions of the accessories brackets or oilpan. But it will cost you a bit more money for the ls6.

True, but man getting a perfect fit with the floor pans is almost impossible due to how the tunnel is shaped and how the pans come in. I found that after cutting down the pan, I slice the edges through the length of the lip so that I can bend little fingers upwards towards the tunnel then weld the ends to the inside of the trans tunnel vs welding from the inside in what I would call the most uncomfortable place to try and weld.

Right now, I'm using a 1/16 lanthanated tungsten with 3/32 filler. I tried 1/16 filler but man it's hard when some gaps are slightly bigger. I've had much better success using 3/32 filler than 1/16. Which do you prefer? lanthanated ceriaited ER3 thoriated So far I've used all but ER3 and honestly don't like thoriated.

rsicard, I saw the engine running and was able to see the oil pressure was normal. Also removed heads and did a full clean up to verify everything was in good shape. You can see in the album what's all been done so far. 240z build album https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd ls1 teardown/rebuild album https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb

Naptown, I wish I could just mig the floors in, however I sold my mig many years ago when I swapped from my original Z to my sport bike... Now I wish I hadn't Either way I wanted to learn tig so here I am. After cleaning what I could off with a new wire wheel, I was able to get a much better weld however I still had occasional splatters. Will say tho, a gas lense has been a extremely awesome upgrade! ktm thanks! Yea already registered on ls1tech as thats where I found the guy selling the ls1 I have currently. Agreed they are an amazing resource and quite a few z guys are over there. Will get those ordered as quick as I can, as that is the last part of the engine that I need. Still need to order all the exhaust tubes and O2 bungs and mufflers tho. But waiting for more money to do that.

small update... apparently getting sick partially through the floor pan replacement because of inhaled fumes due to my stupid ass not wearing a mask. Either way managed to only get the passenger floor pan/frame rails installed. I still have an area to patch for the front kick panel, but otherwise done. Will start working on drivers side tonight. I have my new sump here, but need to modify the tank to accept it. Will start posting pictures of that when I finally tackle it. So far only managed to cut out a hole where the sump will be welded on and found a crap ton of nasty gunk in the tank... so will do another washing and probably the por15 tank kit. Also since I'm learning how to tig vs my mig knowledge.. it has been a bit slower welding the entire floorpan + frame rails in. Two of the biggest things I can state about tig... ALWAYS HAVE 100% CLEAN METAL EVERYWHERE YOU WELD. Back side, frontside, everywhere needs to have no rust, no tar, no nothing but pure clean metal.. even FINGER grease is enough to cause popping of the metal. So many times have I heard a pop and now my tungsten is ruined... and needs to be reground. Second part... if you aren't comfy you will dip your tungsten! Make sure you are always in a comfortable position that does not cause strain on your head/neck and arms otherwise you won't be steady and you WILL dip your tungsten. These alone have been hard since I'm welding from underneath the car and ugh... all that tar that is almost impossible to remove even from underneath. other than that, one more side to do then it's time to install the engine and route my harness.

Since I finally got my bad dog frame rails in, plus my new floor pans... I took 2 days off to have a 4 day weekend... I will be getting the floor pans in and frame rails added and hopefully have the engine mounted by tuesday... Thankfully I already have the interior gutted and should make getting the floor pans cut out easily.

Sunny, that's the problem.. they all look like they match.. cept some say heated and some say non heated.

Looking at RockAuto, I'm not sure which O2 sensors I need? Do I need the heated ones? or the non heated? I know I just need the upstream ones but it looks like all of them are compatible with upstream/downstream.

I managed to bend it a bit but makes putting the dip stick back in a bit of trouble.. Will eventually probably just do what rebekahsZ did and get the Lokar flexible dip stick. Over all I am just waiting on my drivers motor mount, my IAT sensor and my new coolant temp sensor. I also have new GTO spark plugs wires with aluminum heat shields has mine broke as I was removing them and NGK spark plugs. I'm hoping the motor mount shows up tomorrow and I can actually install the engine/trans in the car. Engine harness is already hooked up to the engine and just needs to be ran to the battery and grounds. Also on my harness I have 2 cables labled cpp term c and cpp term d... Which the guy said is the clutch pedal location sensors? are these needed? is this to make sure that the clutch is pressed in before starting the car?

installed my wiring harness on the engine and found that I'm missing a IAT sensor and my coolant temp sensor broke taking the heads off. On top of that my alternator plug only has 1 wire going to it.. is this normal? Also the oil dipstick does not seems to want to fit at all with JTR headers installed... is there another way to mount it? do I need to bend it to snake through the headers?

So apparently some more misc items that I didn't realize I need until now... Driver side motor mount as the guy did not give me bolts/mount at all for either side nore did I get exhaust header bolts. So Had to buy new studs/gaskets + I also don't have O2 sensors of which I'll have to buy some as well... So just bought a new driver side engine mount new remote t56 bleed kit 46in's exhaust gaskets with studs and nuts Hopefully they will all arrive by this weekend so I can put the engine in!! can't wait.

https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb updated album of engine build with engine reassembled and valve/intake painted. Pretty happy how it turned out! Next is reassembly of the clutch then re-mated back with the transmission. This weekend I should be ready to put the engine/trans into the car. I am almost done with the engine bay on clean up but still have a few areas of rust to clean up and get painted.

Ugh got sick with some intestinal crap.. finally feeling good and getting the engine back together. I received my standalone harness/pcm and my new floor pans and radiator! Still waiting on my bad dog frame rails which will be here by next weekend as he said some were still being made. Will take pictures later of some of the stuff that's arrived. And hopefully of a engine reassembled and almost ready to install. I also got my eastwood tig 200DC. So far I got to say it's a nice little tig, should do me fine for what I want to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0sHDyj9UEo as well as a album of the current clean up of the LS1 I recieved. https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb#0 So far after tearing it down and seeing what I had to deal with, it hasn't been so bad. Valves and their seats are still in perfect condition and no leaks could be found. no damage to pistons or cylinder walls and you can still see the original cross hatch from the original hone, which I believe is amazing considering this is at 180k miles... I'd have expect some wear on the bore but there doesn't seem to be much. Either way I have the intake soaking but it doesn't seem to be getting any less oily from what the EGR did to it.. Any suggestions on what to soak the intake with to help degrease it? currently its in a bath of dawn dish detergent and purple power from autozone.

http://i.imgur.com/p33ZD4B.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1tvLr1K.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MWJGNbD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hKMTxS4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hKMTxS4.jpg received my new block huggers, and my ls1 egr block off plate.

Well last night my fuel lines came in!!! 3/8 hardline with all the -6AN fittings as well as my tube bender. as I started cleaning up the engine bay I noticed there is some really bad rust on the floor pans and not sure I really like the idea of bolting up the trans mount to that area. The area where the bolts will be will be in good metal but to me it just seems like I'm begging for something to happen even with a stock engine. So bit the bullet and ordered new floor pans and bad dog front and rear rails. I also ordered me a Eastwood 200DC tig machine and a 80CF cylinder. I really wish I didn't sell my Millermatic 135 when I had it. I also ordered to soft lines using black nylon/stainless steel braided fuel line and the black -6AN fittings for each of the soft lines. Headers from JTR should arrive today!! so stoked to finally get them and put them on the engine. Chevy Thunder also just emailed me saying he's already shipped off my harness!!! Wow that was quick!!

ChevyThunder.com is a great place to get a standalone harness for a LSx motor. I currently have a harness on order from him now. Others include speartech.com and pciconversions.com Drive shafts.. The only person offering driveshafts with their mounts is JCI. Everyone else's mount's expect you to have your driveshaft shortened/lengthened as needed with the correct yolks. As like Aero Z said exhaust is always going to be a custom job and any exhaust/muffler shop should be able to make you one. there are going to be a lot of side things you will need to get. The above link to the build has a pdf on second to last page with almost all the parts you'll have to order, which include a new idler pulley, belt, clutch adaptor, clutch line, new tilton 7/8 master cylinder Other things to note are walbro 255 fuel pump, corvette filter/regulator and all the necessary fuel lines. With the standalone harness, it's almost plug n play. it runs off your starter/battery and when your chassis engages the starter and provides 12+ power the PCM powers up and runs all the necessary sensors to run the engine. You will also want to upgrade your radiator to either a 4 core or buy an aluminum radiator off ebay/summit/jegs If you already have your engine/trans I suggest you do a good once over on it before you drop it in. Right now is the best time to do any maintence to it to make sure it's in good running condition before you put it in unless of course you are buying a crate motor. Otherwise give the engine a good cleanup/once over for waterpump, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, clutch, and whatever else you might need to check. I also suggest you look at your slave cylinder in the t56 as mine had a worn out rubber seal allowing hydraulic fluid to spray out. Once you take your t56 off if the bottom of the inner bell housing is covered in grime, then your slave cylinder probably has leaked fluid. I would suggest buying a new one.

Now I just need to sell my old engine/trans and recoupe some money for more parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dGyV-T6bJk L24 and 4speed out... now just to prep the engine bay and cleanup all that nasty grime then paint it... Anyone got a opinion on using paint stripper? then painting over that with like truck bed liner ?

Anyone used these before ? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b these are a 3/8 tube to AN adaptors. Would they hold under normal psi ? Or should I go with flared? and if flared.. what an flare nuts?

My problem I think is I don't know all the different styles of AN fittings... or which ones I need. I do like the idea of keeping with a hardline.

well I am using the corvette regulator/filter which has built in return line right at the tank. I think I might build me a 3/8 hardline and use AN compression fittings.