CableSrv

Welcome to the long journey ahead!

I wonder how well they would look with a tint added to them? I've been eyeing the glowshift gauges on ebay and I like the black look until they are on feel. Also how often do they have a 20% off sale?

cable x which is 330 vs 369 for speedhuts gps speedo... not much savings compared to getting a brand new gauge that's way better... I'm thinking on getting a speedhut tach/speedo and the 3 gauge pillar from autozone for temp means until I get more cash. autozone sells 3 black autometer gauge kit.. includes water temp, oil pressure and volt gauge for like 80 bucks.

This is a list of things I still need to buy.. I think muffler - 120? extra 3in flanges to make exhaust in pieces vs one huge thing. - 50? O2 sensors - 48? JTR intake kit - 75 radiator hoses - ?? heater hoses - ?? transmission insulation - ?? firewall insulation - 190 (if I buy original) truck bed liner for under the car - 60 gauges.... - 900 from speedhut transmission fluid - 40 new oil filter and oil - 60 dot 3 brake fluid to fill clutch and brake lines - 15

525 for the entire wiring harness + 99 pcm with flash to remove all the unwanted stuff. Honestly was totally worth the money as now I have a lot less to worry about besides just plugging shit in and go. Engine is pretty much wired... I am however still missing O2 sensors and actually building my exhaust. I still have to put my fuel tank back in, but haven't done so since today was getting my new mustache bar in and getting the Diff moved back so that my driveshaft actually fits.. which it does!! whoo hoo! I do need 4 longer bolts and nuts for the companion flange on the diff to driveshaft mount. So next is putting in my fuel tank, running new fuel hoses, and then finish mounting my pump, filter/regulator, then rest of the lines. After all that, new battery, start with a down pipe with o2 sensors, then trying to start her up. Radiator and fans are setup to go but haven't actually put it in the car yet. Still need hoses for the water and still need elbows for the intake+filter. ugh still so much more to buy/do.

So pin 10 on red is the engine speed output for tach? Awesome will make note of that when I get my tach in to hook into it. Yea the standalone wire harness from Chevy thunder provides relays for both radiator fans and fuel pump and a obdII port with check engine light attached. Still trying to figure out where I want to route that cable... either passenger side or driver side... but will need to drill a hole through the firewall.

The standalone harness I have already has that wired up and it is a LED with resistor. The alternator excitor wire I'm talking about is the wire off the EZ wiring harness. I assume it was designed to take over the alternator as it has all the cables for it. Charging cable, excitor and 2 pin gm plug in. I'm assuming I won't be using that as the standalone for the ls1 has it's own 1 wire plug and such.

Finally got my new mustache bar installed and modified the trailing arm so that it clears the diff. However I will need to reinforce the trailing arm as I had to remove quite a bit of material from it to allow the diff enough room. I think a simple 1x7 square tube welded on should be enough.. if not then a c channel welded in should be perfect. Trip to home depot should hopefully result in something worth while. Welded up the original holes for the return and outlet on the fuel tank... little did I know that datsun uses LEAD in that rectangular piece that has the 2 ports on it. Had to scrub that all off and then re-weld it solid. While I was at it, I went ahead and wired in my new ez wiring kit to the new LS1 Engine. Got starter wired up and the wire loom split for the front headlights/turn/parking lights Curious tho... there are a few extra wires that bother me. Alternator exciter? Coil Position? Tach? and AC signal? From what I think... the ecu for the ls1 controls the alternator so the exciter wire I can remove correct? Coil position was used on older engines so this can also be removed? Also the fuel pump wire on the ez kit can be removed as the standalone harness has it as part of it's system. I also think the radiator fan wires can be removed also since that's part of the ls1 harness. So I think I can remove all alternator, fuel pump, radiator fan and coil wire from the ez wiring kit. Any opinions ? Now lets talk tach... how does a aftermarket tach get it's reading? from the ecu? from the coil? not sure how tachs work on ls1's.

Just ordered some sound deadener 50mil. Hopefully 50sqft should be enough to do the firewall, trans tunnel and floors. Also ordered this.. http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2031DD-Exhaust-Tailpipe-Cutter/dp/B000M93OUM ? hopefully this should be good enough for my 3in exhaust tubing so I can also work on getting my exhaust started.

Managed to make my rear seat bracket using some 1.5in angle iron and seems to have worked pretty well. Need to do the same for the passenger side. This weekend I'll be doing the mustache bar and trailing arm and getting the driveshaft hooked up. after that I should be able to finish working on the fuel and putting the tank back in. And figuring where I want to mount my fuel pump/regulator and cutting the rest of my hoses to length.

Fuel tank is mostly done, there are only 3 holes (original outlet and return + a hole I made to help drain the tank) I need to close up with welding then she's ready to be put back in the car. Then mustache bar to set the diff further back and hopefully my drive shaft will fit. Then after all that, I need to mount the radiator and finish wiring and fuel lines, then a start up? updated album with new fuel sump. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd

Yea, just learned that last night.. so now I need to break it up.. my thought is grab a handful or more of some huge nuts and put them in the tank and shake it hard to get the black stuff broken up. Any other ideas ?

Got the new mustache bar will probably try to get it on this weekend. On other news got my new sump welded onto my tank and used ospho on the inside to clean it up... however I let the ospho sit over night... and now I have this weird black tar looking stuff inside all over the bottom. Will probably put some nuts in and shake it around a bit with some water then dry it out. Will take some pictures tonight showing the new sump.

Awesome! I was worried there would be vibration in the belt there and cause some wear that would cause the belt to fail prematurely. Found a 72 mustache bar for 10 bucks + 24 shipping so ordered it. Looked at my trailing arm and while it is flat and not curved... to me it looks like I might be able to push my diff back without to much issues.. and if one does arrive, I can just grind down that trailing arm bracket and reinforce it with some welding. That way I don't need to pay to have that also replaced. But the front mount just needs to be reversed correct? If so then sometime next week I should be able to get that done.

so I need to source the rear control arm mount and new offset mustache bar...

Do I need new parts? or can I just reverse my mustache bar and front mount? Cause atm I don't have extra money to get that done. I just spent the last chunk saved up to get the exhaust tubing for the car.

True! just sucks that I'm making good progress only to go wait... it won't fit!!! Luckily I live in texas and can just drive up to him and save on shipping a 25lb drive shaft.

got the transmission bolted up to the new floor pans and ran into a problem.. the driveshaft provided by johns car is half an inch to long... anyone ran into this?

so had to remove horns, front bumper, front air dam, and front grill! And finally was able to get it about 5in away. Re-mounted the chains from the load leveler to the header area instead of the back of the heads. and that allowed more leverage to push the engine back further. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd I'm sore as hell tho moving that engine so much... and I officially hate my load leveler... I swear that thing is damn near impossible to turn with it under weight. edit: also that last image.. should the belt be that close ?

so ran into a rather large snag... I have a 1 ton shop crane and apparently the boom does not extend long enough in order for me to sit the engine all the way back so I can put it on it's mounts... can't afford a 2 ton crane which only extends the boom length by 13 inch's HELP!!!

updated my album with new pictures of the welded floor http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd There are still a few areas that need to be closed off and that will get done this weekend. I have a fresh argon tank which should be more than enough to finish up the unfinished areas. Then I need to take a grinder to it and smooth up everything and truck bed liner the bottom and inside.

Finally got the frame rails from front to back fully seam welded in. Driver side pan is done. All that is left is to finish closing up the gap in the front of the pan connecting to the kick panels. So hopefully that will be done this weekend and then putting my engine in!!!! Will take pictures of everything this weekend and get them posted. Sadly I've been in a rush to get it welded that I forgot to take pictures during it.

True didn't think that each year could have a slightly longer/shorter rod.

RebekahsZ you don't have to modify it at all.. I took the threaded rod out of my old clutch master and put it in my new tilton and the threaded part matched up perfectly with the pedal. It was pretty easy to swap the rods out.

ChevyThunder.com made me one + new pcm that was reprogrammed for like 500+ With fuse box and everything.