CableSrv

So I found a LS1 and T56 from a 98 camaro and the guy will be dropping it off friday afternoon. Has about 180k miles on it... what maintence should I do besides these? flush fluids spark plugs spark plug wires check water pump I'm already swapping the belt/pulley due to A/C delete. Is there anything I should check with the heads? Engine was running well when I went to see it. I'm also getting a harness/pcm from ChevyThunder, just waiting for it to be done. I do have a few questions tho. I do not see O2 bungs on the JTR headers for the ls1? I assume I will have to get them added on the exhaust side.. which means I can't start the engine without at least a down pipe made from the shorty headers? Fuel lines.... so I think I might have misjudged what I was going to do... I was just going to run 3/8 fuel hose's using the screw type clamps.. but the guy I was buying the engine said that with the EFI psi that runs on these cars.. that would not be adequate.. So I started looking at the doorman nylon push fittings and or SS braided line with summit -6AN push fittings.. Any ideas on cheapest route to go for that? I was thinking of getting these http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-03-Corvette-LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fitting-Fittings-Kit-AN-6-BLUE-3-pc-Kit-/121524297441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4b699ee1&vxp=mtr for the corvette filter/reg but I think I read somewhere that those type of fittings have a bad rep of coming off under pressure and that instead of those get the type with the screw ends instead of plastic ends.

Yup, remember following your build LONG ago when you were still in texas. Sadly his prices apparently went up and his headers now cost more than Jag's ls1 headers..

where did everyone mount their fuse box? I have the 12 mini and it definitely won't fit where the original fuse box was... just not sure where I want to mount it.

the floor pans so far are the only thing really that looks like it needs to be replaced rust wise. battery tray isn't so bad and the rear deck isn't that bad either.

doh! well hopefully someone else can chime in? if not I'll try to figure out how to get it wired hopefully. In the mean time I'll deal without wipers for a bit.

So picked up my car which was a 71 240z as pictured.. https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd These were the problems found horrible seats destroyed weatherstripping car ran super rich 4 speed shifts very sloppy one tire was gashed and leaking air tach didn't work wiring was randomly spliced here and there all over. With that said, the dash was pristine! I decided just to try to get her to run reliably at first and did the following replaced seats replaced fuel filter triple oil change, with he first two being with marvel mystery oil replace distributor with a re-manufactured one and upgrade it to pertronix replaced the coil with a pertronix flamethrower replace all spark-plugs with ngk's and gap them to .042 upgrade the alternator to a 60amp unit with a re-manufactured delco/remy from a 280zx rebuild the carbs floats, and install new needles and clean up the carbs as much as I could. Checked for air leaks on bushings and found none. valve lash was horribly incorrectly set and engine was only running on 5 cylinders since a valve was probably stuck open. After doing all this my fuel pump gave out and the wiring apparently showed to have shorts... battery drained over-night and said **** it.. bought ezwiring 12 mini kit. Currently rewiring the car as we speak. Then said might as well swap to the ls1 I've always wanted. Found someone that is selling ls1 and t56 for about 3k so buying it come monday. Currently already have on order: ChevyThunder standalone harness + pcm preflashed walbro 255 pump camaro regulator/filter tilton 7/8 clutch master russel clutch adaptor for the t56 46in clutch line new idler pulley new belt throttle cable kit I've already talked to Johns cars about picking up my JCI kit, which is awesome since I'm local to him. So probably next weekend I'll be taking out the old L24 and 4 speed and prepping the engine bay for it's new heart!

So not to bring up this from the dead... but I recently got a 71 240z that needed to be rewired! Bought a EZ 12 mini kit and having issues with the wipers? Mine only comes with 1 blue wire that says wiper power? not sure how to hook that up and still have my 2 speeds? Am I suppose to add extra wire to wire the switch to the motor? Am I suppose to reuse part of the old harness? Why is there only 1 wiper power cable and nothing else?

5thgenluder: On your wiper pdf, I only see 1 ez wire number going to the wiper assembly? #7 blue wire which is called wiper power. I see nothing for the wiper switch itself? besides you listing multi colored wire which the EZ kit does not have any multi colored wire? Does anyone have any idea how to wire the switch up for the 2 speeds? I bought the ez-wire 12 mini kit. I cannot find anywhere in my kit wires that belong to wiper besides the #7 wiper power wire.

isn't this Z listed on craigslist to be sold?

I bought the it's a snap kit! 20 circuit and works fine!! then removed it to strip my car to a shell to start restoring it lol!! so it's sitting on a box waiting to be put back in!

ok so then I just have to deal with the damn bottle jack nearly falling off or rig some type of screw down for that shelf so that the jack doesn't fall off. Kinda crappy seeing as I just dumped 440 bucks on it and it has that bad of a flaw...

well I got my tube bender which btw jm for some odd reason the spring doesn't hold that shelf tight... the bottle jack almost wants to fall off when there is no pressure... and that doesn't seem right. the cable the supplied with the spring seems to long... am I missing something here ?

using a cms called joomla. then designed my template for the basic look then just added the content.

alot more pictures added, and included a video! gimme thoughts opinions on what you think http://www.nekid240z.com

not a bad oven, find out the dimensions tho. Looks could be deceiving. Also... you want to make sure there is ABSOLUTELY NO WATER from your compressor, that means installing a moisture trap on your line... if not multiple. water in the air causes bumps in the powdercoat and will have you bashing your head in trying to figure out why.

400F for the bake and 450F for the gass out of the part

hahahaha f the not safe at work part... then again I watch all sort of stuff here

yea, that is true which is what i'll be doing. My old oven will get torn apart and put into a new shell. The only issue with that, is it takes longer for the oven to actually reach it's desired temp, unless you put more elements in there.

heh, no problem at all! I plan to build one myself and did lots of research. One of the biggest things is the insulation you use for your oven. Most suggest you use mineral wool which is safe to 2000+ degrees F. meaning no catching fire and keeping heat where it's suppose to be.

take a look in this forum http://forum.eastwoodco.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9 lots of discussion on powder coating and a few good ones on building from scratch a powder coat oven.

Ok I ended up doing a crap ton more than I probably needed!! but I think I like the new way that the images are handled, plus I can add captions to them to help describe certain areas better. I'm also able to play wmv media on my site as well, which means I really need to get to making my video tonight. I have a few recorded videos so far of me welding my frame and doing the subframe mount. Kinda kewl I think. anyway gimme some more opinions of what you guys think!!

it will slightly on the floor. But if you look at pete's site his rails go above the floor itself. I plan to raise my floor by .25 inch due to this. I simply wanted stronger tie in's to the body and even after this is is put in place, I still have more to do. I plan to also weld 4 horizontal frames connecting the frame rails to the rockers. 2 on each side to connect the front and rear rocker to the frame. Then after I start my tube chassis, I plan to tie that and the front frame into the rockers. If you do some search on this forum, alot of ppl have stated that the rockers are one of the strongest parts in the 240z unibody. Unlike the original frame rails which is sad... but hey doesn't bother me just means another area I need to tie my frame/tube chassis into. as far as those cross members... in the trans tunnel those are only temporary atm. They were put in place to make sure once I welded the entire frame together as 1 peice that it kept the frame rails squared. Think of them as a jig for the frame. After the engine/trans gets put in the car I do plan to ad REAL braces to those areas tho. It's just I need to wait to see what clearances I have for that. And those 1x1 tubes currently your seeing... yea those WON'T hold much to stress!!

I used jacks directly under the front of the rocker panels. the car is so light up front I can lift it with 1 hand so there is DEFINITLY not much weight to cause sag or anything of that sort. Plus the rockers are a much stronger point of the car then the original frame rails were!! you can look on my site to see what i'm doing with my frame/framerails. Just click on my sig picture. (btw all my pictures can be clicked on... some odd reason not showing different mouse cursor)

welcome to texas

I'll see what I can do about the mouse over, as far as the side bar I definitely agree and will fix that asap. Thanks for your opinions.