Geno750

Got my valve covers back, and went and installed the IGN-1A's and brackets. The bracket needs 3mm thick spacers to allow coils to clear the valve covers.

My valve covers are finally ready for pickup, just need to leave work early enough and for retarded drivers in Denver not to crash and cause traffic problems to get them. Throttle conversion to 350Z DBW system is under way. Hindsight, should have rotated the spacer 90 degrees and I could have been done with just one spacer. Sadly I'm dumb and have to buy a second one now for the TB to fit. Radiator arrived. It's a Griffin 26x19 rad part number 1-55222. It is a snug fit. The plan is to weld up a swirl pot into the upper rad neck and then plan the upper and lower hoses to complete the cooling system plumbing. Then I'll work on the fan shroud.

Here's how I'm getting around the whole throttle conversion deal. Got a used throttle body spacer for a 350Z, welded up to the stock manifold. I'll get another one to get the TB to clear the manifold. 350Z TB's are 70mm so it's a small size upgrade over stock as well. My infinity 6 ecu will handle the dbw and let's me eliminate the iacv, which when sold paid for the TB and oem gas pedal.

Just a heads up on the drift motion ac/ps delete kit, you'll likely want to get a belt one size shorter. Here's my motor with the belt the kit comes with and you can see the tensioner is almost maxed out. In fact it's on the mark that indicates a belt replacement is required.

The other option is T56/TR6060 if you're running a rear end with a taller (4.1 or greater) gear. The cost is about equal to the CD009.

If you're using the R200 from a 280Z the ratio is the same as the 350Z. Now that you can just run an adapter plate and J1/J2 auto bell housing on the CD009 it's definitely the way forward instead of the R154.

If I were to go GE I'd just get an aftermarket intake manifold and exhaust manifold, then spend money on forged pistons and rods. The resulting engine would be more than capable. As someone who's been down the path of swapping 2JZ heads, it's not worth it. Go for the whole engine.

There's also protection you can add to the wiring. Checkout http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp They've got wire looms that provide thermal protection.

I'm on the fence about using a blanket. The good ones (PTP Lava Blanket) cost almost as much as ceramic coating would, which would do the same thing. Both of which cost a tremendous amount more than a simple heat shield would as well.

It was a really snug fit. I don't see it going into a 240Z without some serious work.

Yeah, I went from having access to a 4500sq ft. hangar to a two car garage. Space suddenly became a premium. If you ever decide to do a full rewire, eBay is the way to go for the wire. Mine was a gov liquidation and came out to $38 after shipping.

Yeah, the manifold selection on the 2JZ head is a lot nicer than the 1JZ's. It's a Greddy manifold from their T88 turbo kit. I figure even if the turbo is a laggy beast, the car will still be fun out of boost compared to the original L28. The higher compression ratio and VVTI should keep the engine from being completely boring at lower rpm.

From what I can remember of my factory harness, yes the white with red stripe is a constant 12v power source. I wound up removing all the stock wiring though. I have 1800ft of M22759 wire thanks to eBay and plan to use as much as possible.

Finally got around to modifying the turbo manifold for the Turbosmart wastegate.

I wanted a smaller turbo tbh, like a Gen2 3076GTX, but when you're offered a brand new S364.5sxe for $500 it's hard to say no. With the cams and the valve train being shimless I can take the motor to 9000rpm to make full use of the turbo. I do admit it's going to be a dumb amount of power for a street car. However I'm in Denver so I can compensate for that mile of elevation now.

Where are you seeing $900? The plate is $350. By my math, plate and using your figures for the machining and other parts you're looking at $1350. The clutch/flywheel systems are the same between two so that's essentially a fixed cost.

Kinda forgot about this thread. I picked apart my blue Z and salvaged everything I could. Combined I'll have a single rust free chassis. The plan was finish engine first, get rid of all the left over parts for more garage space, then work on getting the engine in the car, then finish restoring the rest of the car. However, first I needed space. Here's the growing pile of parts for the motor. I wound up selling my 9174EFR to a guy who needed one right away for his racecar. I replaced it with a S364.5SXE since this is a street car. If I do any sort of revisit into EFR turbos I'll probably go small twins. Manifold and turbo fit, barely. I still need to cut the 4 bolt flange for the wastegate off and weld on a vband. Ironically, it seems that if one were to try this in the future, go with a 60mm wastegate. Turns out the wastegate flange, while designed for Greddy's 47mm wastegate is fed by an almost 60mm tube. Of course, I'm using a 50mm Turbosmart pro-lite wastegate, so more work is going to be required. Got the bottom end back from the machine shop. Painted it, and installed the Greddy thermostatic oil cooler. With a laser temperature probe and my propane heater I was able to 'bake' the paint on. Rods were shot peened and resized/balanced for ARP bolts and the fitted to the new wrist pins. Ended up going with 10.6:1 wiseco 86.5mm pistons. With the 2JZ head I'll loose about a point and some change of compression. With my 1.2mm Tomei head gasket I should be somewhere around 9.6:1 SCR. One catch with the pistons was having to bend all the oil squirters to get them to fit. Also sold the CD008 and picked up a TR6060 from a Ford XR6. The rear end I've got would have made the first two gears in the CD008 useless. Not wanting a 4 speed I got something a bit better suited. The XR6 uses some of the shortest gears offered in a TR6060 as well, which will be nice, while still having a long 6th for highways. The other nice thing is shifter placement is almost factory. Bell housing adapter. The only thing I've done to my VVTI head was clean it and install better valve springs and Ti retainers. Downside to that is the factory valve lengths aren't uniform. So when I checked fitment with my Kelford V202-D cams, I would need to order 13 new shims to achieve the .010" lash required. Screw that. Shims were about $7 each, and I found a Toyota dealer in the Middle East with shimless buckets for $7.70 a piece. Shimless buckets arrived 4 days after ordering. Ran into my first modification required hurdle with the 2JZ head 1JZ block combo. The cam gear backplate cover doesn't fit. The lower tabs on each side have to be cut off to clear the oil & water pumps. After some cutting and a few hours of test fits and checking timing I had the lower cover in place and everything was on. Also for anyone wondering, the water neck needs to use the water pipe for the block it's going on. In my case the 1JZ water neck worked perfectly. Another thing that worked perfectly were the front engine covers. The 1JZ bottom cover and 2JZ upper cover fit perfectly. It also turned out my serpentine belt tensioner was bad so new one is on the way, along with the pully since I won't have ac or ps on this engine.

The 350Z trans is a solid option since you can just run any RB clutch kit. The only annoying part about the swap is milling the bell housing .5" to accommodate the adapter plate.

Could you post more pics of the swirl pot by the upper water neck on the block?

Very nice. I've been going at about the same pace (probably slower). I still need to sort the TOB situation. Your pictures will save me some time though. I went with a TR6060 from a Ford XR6 falcon. They seemed to come with the most ideal gear ratios for my engine (1JZ). 3.36, 2.07, 1.35, 1.00, 0.71, 0.57.

From what I've seen the ball joint from the 240SX will fit into the LCA on the S30. You can also go with the T3 LCA which works as well.

Didn't know CX racing made those. I went the IGN-1A route, and got a bracket that replaces the coil pack cover.

I think the kit you're thinking of is the one by mojo. http://www.mojoperf.com

If you're after 400-500whp, you've got a wide variety of options. Due to the age of the engine though, I think you're right to go with a single turbo setup. The stock twins on the US model supra's are capable of 400whp, but they're getting old. However, if you find a set of rebuilt ones though, its a really good setup. Almost all of these questions have been answered tons of times on supraforums.com, I'd suggest going there and continuing your research. Anyone can get behind a keyboard and give you bad information, so its on you to verify. So any answers to your 5 questions are going to be mostly opinions. So I hope you have your large grains of salt handy, because here are my opinions (answers) to your questions. 1. Get the 2JZGTE VVTI engine. There is literally no reason not to for your stated goals. They are cheap at under $2000, and a decent importer is straight south of us in Arizona. They also have a shitload more power under the curve, and will aid in spooling a single turbo (Side note, if you get one with an auto transmission, Keep the bellhousing, more on why in question 2&3) 2. R154's are prohibitively expensive, and in my opinion, not a viable solution for people who aren't swapping a MK3 supra that had one already. This is especially true if you're chasing MC internals. Its a $2k transmission that is old as hell. The exception to that is if you can find an AR5 (essentially same thing as R154)a transmission on the cheap, which is somewhat possible since you're in the midwest. Driftmotion even sells a pilot bearing for people using that transmission. Driftmotion also sells an entire swap kit for the AR5 https://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm3445.htm I would suggest looking into the CD009 transmission from a 350Z, the gearing is better suited for the 280Z R200 rear end as its the same final drive as the 350Z's at 3.54 3. Any year, the transmission tunnel doesn't change lengths so the issues are the same across all years. 4. Search the forum, as this has been covered in depth a lot here. This is also going to vary depending on your budget. 5. Nobody can accurately tell you that. There are simply too many variables to deal with. The quick and dirty ballpark is to budget $10k and hope you stay under it.

If you go R200 from just about anything, you can use the 4 lug hubs from an S13/14. They have the same spline count. You also get more differential options due to the larger aftermarket for the R200.