G-Tech

Glad i didn't start a whole thing here. FWIW i also agree that a Grill delete is an excessive thing to overlook or not mention. Like i said, it's a valid point to bring to peoples attention. Happy Building in the future!

Sucks to hear you had such an issue. I have had problems similar with other companies also. It's super frustrating. I know i have purchased a handful of things from Apex Engineered. Some were fine but the rear subframe for a s130 chassis i got from them certainly had some modifying to be done. I have learned very rarely is something "Bolt-on". Even when they say it is. My Brakes from Arizona Zcar had to be modified, my Custom stub axles from whitehead performance interfered with the shock mounts and i had issues with the rear coilovers from T3. I guess my 2 cents is every company tries putting out parts that aren't 100% I would say be careful buying those hood hinges til you talk to them and see that the problem has been fixed. All these companies are small and trying to do more then they can handle. Hence mayb why their customer service sucks. It's tough out there and i hate to see post like this. There are certainly worse companies that don't deserve to be in business but i just don't feel this is one of them. I'm thankful for this company making what they do. FWIW, I have absolutely no ties to any company. I'm just an enthusiast Good luck with your build. Not trying to stir shit up (even though i feel i just did)

Still Available 9/25/24. Its pretty cheap for a good quality item

My input on this is avoid steel wheels (pretty obvious opinion) My main reason for chiming in is to suggest that you avoiding wheels that you need to use adapters. My 1st set of rims were for a front wheel drive car and i had adapters. One day i took a wheel off and i noticed a stud had broken off and i had no idea because my rim was covering it. How dangerous to have a v8 car with 3 studs holding a wheel on. I went to Boze Wheels and they made me a custom set. Not cheap but there isn't many options unless you want the standard Rota wheels

Hey, whats happnin slownrusty! Been awhile. Always liked seeing images of your car. I'm on 20yrs this year. Been in my family since new

The Differential will swap but you have to look at the flange that the driveshaft bolts up too. If yours is round, you will have to swap that over(FYI, it doesnt just pull off, you need some sort of puller. Even just a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight). The 300zx half shafts and stub axles i do not believe swap over. If you want something stronger than universal joint half shafts you need to source 280zxt companion flanges and CV-joints. I have custom made stub axles that allow me to run 300zxt cv joints. The company that made mine are out of business. Z car depot might make something. If you do the 280zxt cv joints, they will work in any R-200 (longnose) Diff. And you will only need the 280zxt inner stub axle (called companion flange). Your stock outer stub axle is the same as a 280zxt. Which if you are running alot of HP (400+) and a stick shift. The outer stub axle is your week point. If your under 300hp you will be fine.

Yup, Those are them.

The only thing i can really answer for you is the Diff question. That Diff will be plenty strong but you will be doing 1 wheel burnouts until you put some sort of LSD in it. I run Quaife LSD and love it. There are other makes out there that people like too. Good luck with the swap!!

Selling my Techno Toy Tuning Strut brace. I love that it ties into the firewall. It just gets in the way with my LS motor setup. I had the 2 firewall ties Anodized Black to match a little better. There is 1 spot on each side that i had to remove a little material for clearance with my motor set. It is on the underside so it won't be visible and i touched it up with some paint. Goes for $350 plus shipping ( i just put one in cart on website and with tax and shipping came to $405) I will sell mine for $200 +$25 shipping (in the states/ maybe Canada too) $225 shipped

I don't know much about that swap but i have put a LS in my 280zx. At the end of the swap you will have the chassis electrical (interior/exterior lighting and any accessories you choose to keep or add), and you will have the engine and drivetrain electrical (engine, trans ). I have the stock computer still for chassis stuff and i have a 1999 Camaro computer that controls the engine and tranny. What i think you need to focus on is first getting the computer out of the G35 and either stripping the wire harness and sorting out the engine and trans portion of it or if you can, sourcing an aftermarket standalone wire harness just for your motor and trans. Basically, you want the motor to still think it's in the G35.

I used them along time ago. They worked great. Fitment was real well. I have them hanging on a wall still because i had a couple welds crack and leak. I wouldn't let that make you not order them though. There isn't many options out there. They can get re-welded. I have rack and pinion steering for what is worth

Dude!!! My inspiration!!!! Welcome back. your car is what convinced me to go v8 like 15yrs ago. Started with SBC 300hp. 4 motors later im at a 416 LS3. Your car is looking good! You still running a LT1? I was super impressed with what you did with that motor

Looks great, really clean looking body! Eibach makes 1in lowering springs. That is what i started with. The pic is with 1in springs. Probably all he needs. If he wants to go any lower, he will need Techno toy tuning coilovers. That is what i have now. The front can only go down at most 2in before it needs the shortened struts that Techno toy makes.

i think you are spot on for a sure thing fit. I have 17x7 front and 17x8 rear 225/45 up front and 235/45 rear. the only thing i did different then what you are talking about is i have 0 offset. but +4 is less than 3/16 of an inch so i dont think that will hurt you any. The front you have to make sure the tire doesn't hit the strut (i think you will be fine). The rear i had a problem with mine when the car squats, it would actually hit the front of the wheel well lip. That is from V8 torque. if it is still 6cyl you will be fine. Mine is lowered 2-3in

Just to put my 2 cents in about stock aftermarket cv-axles. I bought the same trakmotive axles from Rockauto. They worked fine in my 280zx (different car i know). The main thing i noticed was the main shaft is a noticeably smaller diameter than stock. They worked fine other than that. I swapped them out after finding used OEM cv's. Ill keep them for backup but i was a lil concerned about strength for high HP