doublexl240z

I had picked up a set of 200sxt half shafts, looked like a perfect fit. BUT!! 2 1/2 inches too long for the r200 in the z with an increased track( longer lower control arms).

Looks a little like something I put together a few months ago. Maybe my Ideas are not all that crazy. I just made toe adjustable on the fly.

"Is it a problem getting good pads for them?" That was my question!! There is no use(in my opinion) to bolt on a caliper that nobody makes high perf brake pads for. I've never heard of using Volvo calipers, but I am by no means an expert all the cross fitting options. I would identify the Volvo you are pulling the calipers off of and head to your brake pad supplier and see what is available. If it is a vehicle that is not performance oriented or there is not a need for HP pads, I believe you would wasting your time and money. Than I would look into what rotor fitment you will need. Then if its feasible and cost effective I would go ahead with the purchase and have some fun working on the Zed!!

Have you checked as to the availability of high perf pads for Volvo calipers?

I have one of each. Let me know which one you need. 407.463.0312

Also try www.racecareng.com. They are in central Florida and have hypercoils for 54 bucks a piece. Great service!!

Jeff, sounds like a plan!! Mike, PM email sent!!

Mike, I met you at Skycraft a while back and I'm exactly at the same point you are at right now!! Z31 hubs with a set of Wilwoods on the way soon! Was going to try to figure out spacing etc.!! Let me know what you need or what I can do. I'm in Orlando, I work at Parker Boats.

Pistons blown out of rear wheel cylinders?? Stuck between drum and cylinder?? Now you probably need shoes and drums!!

ZR that looks awesome!!! Like a V8supercar with the flares!! Cool!!

Dude, I think its a cool idea!! Nicely done too!! If wasn't keeping the YZ fenders the way they are I would do that to mine.

Firemedic, You will need wheels with 0 offset or as close too that. The +40/+42 off wheels are for front wheel drive cars, where the wheel mounting flange is much closer to the out edge of the wheel. You would need a spacer between the wheel and hub equal to that offset. So, figure on a 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 in spacer which I doubt you have enough lug stud length to accomplish. I think you'll find (as have all of us Z guys have) that wheel choices are limited at best. I'm in the process of switching to a 5 x4.5 setup, and the first day I told somebody about it he sold me a set of 18x9 front, 18x10.5 rear wheels from his Cobra R for 500 bucks, with a decent set of Nitto track tires on them!!

I think these pics will load up. I can take more if you need. My glass guys are the best I have ever seen. Chris Leone 407.463.0312

I had some molds made for some 1/4 panels with a very mild flare. I have them on my car, and a car in Oregon. He was real happy with fit a finish. I'm selling them for 400 a set, plus shipping. I have the fuel door, marker light and bumper holes filled. But they could be cut out. My pics are too big to post. But I can e-mail them to anyone interested. My e-mail is: laxorl at aol dot com.

Externally they are the same. Inside is where the diferences are. The World Class T5 was in the Mustang, and the nonWorld Class was in the ZXT, S10 P/U, the firebrd V6 etc.The shafts and bearings are considerably larger thus stronger. They will bolt up to the stock zxt bell housing, the output shaft is the same, so the stock yoke will slide right in. The main change you will have to do is change the clutch discs to have the same spline count as the Ford. Another diference is that the 5th gear on the World class(mustang) box is .68 versus the .83 on the non world class, so 5 gear will be alot less rpms at the same speed. I just talked to a shop in Miami and they have a .90 5th gear setup to make it a more trackable setup. I'm still more research!!

Avid, I'm in Orlando and I have a 79 ZX that has been hit in the right rear. The engine runs like a top. It has 62 thousand miles!!!!!! Shifts great!! No brakes or title. Has 15" swastickas on it!! Would be a great parts car. How about 900 bucks!! Let me know!!

The ad says cosmetic restoration not rotiserrie. That means "to me" that it was cleaned to look good. The ad says new tires, wheels, AM/Fm stereo, Weber carbs etc. I don't see where it is misrepresented. St Louis Museum is a reseller (read Used Car Lot) for neat/cool cars. Not Honeycutt, or Harrahs or Guggenheim. They sell cars. Those lights will show any flaws in all but the most perfect of paint jobs. Looks like a neat car, especially for a reported 31XXX miles. Just my 2 cents. Your milage may vary.

What are your intentions with the roll cage? Autocross, road race, street, show, drag?? If its for SCCA, get a GCR and build accordingly. i.e. Main hopp cannot have more than 4 bends in it, totalling 180+/-10 degrees. Yours has more than that. Though it fits really nice. Remember, bends are really weakenig the material, and your under it. I need to figue out how to resize pics. So I can show some pics of my cage which is built to SCCA specs. PM with email and I can send some to you. I'm 6'4" and I fit with a race seat.

John, Ya its been like a giant soap opera getting things normallized. The Z in IT trim had( last year) a minimum tubing of 1.75x .095 or 1.5x.120 (whether mild or cro-mo) but then in Prod it was 1.50x.095 in mild steel or 1.375x .095 in cro-mo(with proof?? that its cro-mo). Kinda made moving a car up and not getting killed on weight an impossibility. Or you could just gut that 1 or 2 year old cage out and build a new one!! Not a bad idea for my business!!

John, I got it from the very rulebook that you posted the link to (the one I deal with on a dialy basis building rollcages with). If you have kept up with the GCR, they(SCCA) have set cage material to one set of specs. So whether it is an IT car or my GT car or a prod car, all production based cars get the same set of rules for tubing sizes. The benefits of cro-mo versus mild steel has been erased, due to the fact that they (SCCA) relied on people proving, usually with receipts, that their cage was built with cro-mo.Just different attaching points etc.

Shift, From SCCA rulebook: Seamless or DOM (recommended 1020 or 1025) mild steel tubing or 4130 cro-mo must be used for all roll cage structure. Cars weighing between 1701-2699 lbs w/ driver must use a minimum of 1.500 x .095 in. Main Hoop... The roll cage must attach to the vehicle structure(FLOOR PAN/ROCKER BOX) within the passenger compartment....

I don't believe the mounting points are safe whether MSA or anybody else uses them. As far as chassis stiffening, the middle of the fender well won't flex. As far as rollover protection, it would get punched through the well, or if the welds where not too hot it would just bend until it hit your head. And in the case of side impact, you would be protected from the shoulders up. Its too easy to build them to be protective and chassis stiffening. and as soon as I figure out how to resize a pic, I'll post some pics.

Moms'z, I will be going to the PRI show on Thurs and Fri, can go to the man. of your harness and get directions. They usually will have have the big hitters(engineers) due to the technical nature of the show. I have always mounted them behind the groin area. Which seems to make sense because their job is to keep you back in your seat. But,,, when its installed in a race seat it comes through the hole in the base, what happens below that hole really shouldn't matter all that much. Another thing to consider when you are mounting your shoulder belts is what head and neck restraint you are going to use and follow their directions!!! HANS has particular directions on theirs and I've moved peoples belt bars in the past to accomadate that. Another option is the Isaac system really slick and technically makes more sense than the Hans. Lastly, I have an R200 with a pretty rare set of gears (4.375:1)and an R200 short nose that has a 4.08:1 ratio in it. The 4.375 only came in the Skyline or from Nismo. The shortnose came from a 240sx but the gears will fit any R200. Just another gear option for you!! Call me if you want 407.463.0312

I went to Lowes and bought a dryer cord that matched the outlet, and a female end that matched the welder and made a jumper/adapter. This also allows me to move the welder a little bit as most of the welders I have owned have short power leads. Figure on spending about 15-20 bucks and killing 2 birds with one stone.

The absolute best bet for the money and time and aggrevation etc. is the JD2 bender. www.JD2.com 295 for the head, 135 for the stand, 225 for the 1 1/2 in. die. Make your own handle, heck you could even mount it on your own stand. Alot of those cheaper benders are bending at a 7 in. radius, thats huge!! Look at the radius of that 14 wheel in the garage, thats a 7 radius!! These will bend down to 4.5 in. on the 1 1/2 in. tubing. SCCA and most others require a minimum radius of 3 times the diameter. 7 inches is hard to fit tight in a lot of areas, and doesn't look as good as a 4.5 in. I've built 7 cages in the past year with mine and this one is the easiest to use. and if that whole lotto thing works out for ya buy the hydraulic kit, then its just push button!!!