MONZTER

Let me explain how I built the bar. First the flat spots on the chassis is not parallel, so trying to cut/miter the cross tube perfect for welding is a pain in the arse. So what I did was cut a 1-3/8 hole in the mounting plates that allowed the bar to slip through it. Given the mounting plates are 1/4 thick, this gives you some easy tolerance and makes a square saw cut possible. Next I "threaded" the mounting brackets over the bar, and bolted the brackets to the chassis with precision thickness 3/8 washers between the mounting plates and the chassis. I did this to add a little more wiggle room to make installation easier. After bolting in the brackets with the washers in place the bar is perfectly aligned and ready to tack. After tacking the bar I removed it and welded it 100% on the table. So the thickness of the washers could be adjusted to compensate for different "alignment" problems with different cars. So, that’s how I would do it, any comments?

Thanks guys. But the problem is always “if the price is right" and there is nothing wrong with that. Really, I have no interest in making a couple of bucks, or even a bunch of bucks of anybody on this forum. This is my hobby that I do for enjoyment, If I were to make some parts it would be more to help people out who don’t have the equipment to fabricate their own parts. That being said, I also am not going to lose money, by making some parts. Really, by time you consider laser cutting the brackets from 1/4 CHMO plate, doing a heavy tumble to remove the scale, buying the CHMO tube, building the fixture, welding the parts, chroming or powder coating them, it’s not going to be cheap, I don’t think anything that is done nicely is. What if I made you guys some prints of the brackets, and of the cut length of the bar, this way you could make your own with whatever means you have. It would really be much cheaper, and keep with the spirit of this forum, building hybrids.

I usually make these kinds of parts just for myself, but its such a simple part. I'll think about it and let you know. Jeff

Ah Ha, found it Jon, different forum but thanks for the Alan T tip (should have figured) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7844&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

Hi Jon, Thanks, ya I did some quick searching for Rally Roll bar/ bolt in roll bar/ and safari roll bar, with not much luck, I'll keep looking. I know the strut bar I have looks inferior, but I have tried solid bolt in styles in the back and front and it did throw off the balance of my car. I made a nice triangulated solid bolt in bar for the front only to cut the diagonal supports off after the car started to understeer really bad. I switched back the simple heim joint bar an it’s great. Same thing in the rear, not as dramatic but it upset the balance. The way I see it is like this. If the car is going to have a stiff chassis it needs to be balanced and stiff equally front middle and rear. What you’re doing for example. If you only stiffen the front, and or rear it messes the balance up. People who have used the PDK front setup without a cage have had problems, so I have heard. I think leaving the front and rear soft and balance works for me. Maybe its wrong, but I like it. I know on the road bikes I design this is defiantly the case when working on the carbon lay-ups. too stiff in the rear is bad if the front is not a match. A fully soft balanced frame will always handle better and turn in better than an unbalance frame. I think when I get my cage going in my other car the bar in the back will work perfect. Hey are you going to the MSA driving school? Your welcome to drive my car, and see what you think, its still NA but a lot of fun. Jeff

Sorry, Been working on welding up the Wiggins fittings and secondary injectors to the throttle bodies and such. I think I am going to build my own flow bench. Have you ever seen the equipment form www.audietech.com I’ll be able to finish up my CNC head and check the plenum at the same time

Really, did they also bolt up to the two sets of holes in the roof bar where the dome light is? Do you have any good pics. I already have a strut tower bar. And it seems to do the job. If I made the strut tower bar stout enough and bolt in I am afraid it would change my set-up. Also the belts will have to go back at an angle a longer distance, not as good from what I have read. Here are some pics of it as I made it this afternoon at lunch break. What do you think? I feel it should be OK now that I know what the holes were for..

Hey Guys, I don’t know about anything other than 240's, but my cars have 4 threaded holes in the chassis right under the 1/4 window that have a recessed flat spot. I mode some plates that bolted to them and welded the bar between them. It worked out to be the perfect height and position for the belts. No cutting or welding to the chassis and it unbolts with no problem. I'll take some pictures to show you soon. Bart I will be at the MSA Autocross, trying for the first time in a year to be in control, this time with a harness. Looking forward to seeing you there. Jeff

Nope not yet

I run in a class called CSM, its not a national class, just fun local stuff here in Southern California, my friends with Z,s also run this class. I have not run for over a year and I am getting it back up and going

Thanks for the Reply, This is my daily driver, and I don’t want to weld anything to the body. The car is still original paint and never in an accident, so I want to keep it for restoration. Besides, I was reading on one of John C. post that you want the belt to mount close to the seat. I am really just looking if there are any regulations on wall thickness and bar diameter for local autocross events

I need to build a harness bar that will be used without a roll bar. I am going to mount it horizontal above the wheel tubs level with the openings in my seat, about 3" back from the seat. I am thinking about using some 1-3/8x0.83 wall CRMO that I have. Do you guys think this will be good enough as an autocross only set up. Thanks Jeff

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I know you found something, but have you ever seen this stuff http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=wire+heat+wrap&N=700+400081+115+302816&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch It is expensive, but I think it looks alot nicer than the plastic stuff.

Why does the turbo have to be in the stock location?? I could think of better places. Many have. Monzter

Yes the original F-Series bikes were made by Answer with Easton tubes. They were light and flexi. The new carbon frames are at 900gms and 50% stiffer while having better ride quality. And yes a frame and fork is expensive at 3500.00. who did you ride for?