MONZTER

I dont see why not, except that it would be too easy;)

All of the photos are of the A1 and will only fit the 240 strut after being cut down. The ones Jon had Q1 are for the 280 and should would with no mods

Sorry Jon, I don’t mean to confuse the issue. I thought you were saying you were going to order the same part number that you already have but with the A1 at the end instead of the Q1. I thought you meant the A1 designated the thread size. The part number I ordered (B4-B30-U232A1 M48x1.5 OST) It did have to be cut down. Every time I talked to the guys at Bilstein it was a real pain in the butt. I think they have so many different options, that they cant keep track of them.

So your saying the part number for one that does not need to be modified to fit a 240 is B30-629 A1 Let us know if you get them, as I would like to order some new ones after messing mine up for not using the correct tool to tighten them:biggrin:

Jon, Here is my info - Strut part number - F4-P30-0032-MO re-valved 300/100 Gland nut part number - B4-B30-U232A1 M48x1.5 OST - this is what the invoice said I was told the nuts people use to use are no longer available. I went back and forward with Bilstein a few times to figure this out. These work but have to be cut down in length. Check out the pictures below. ps I would highly suggest getting the tool to tighten them Jeff number on part says B30-629 and A1

Thanks for that link Alan. Those parts look so good. The doors are amazing. These are the type of parts I have been looking for. Now if I could only find a way to get some of them over here? It’s scary how much you know about these cars. Jeff

I also don’t want anyone to forget Mike (TurboBlueStreak) He is the computer genius who started this hole CFD testing process. He taught me how to do it and I thank him. He was also responsible for all of the first test, as well as Ron’s test. He is currently working on some really good stuff.

Hi Tony, I did the mods you requested, and it appears as I thought, the restriction is not between the upper and lower plenum and not really the problem. Here is what I did - 1.) Standard HKS Type 2 - flowed 442CFM at 25" 2.) Standard HKS Type 2 - Same test but without the bolt on inlet, just straight into the two openings on the plenum - 640CFM at 25" 3.) Standard HKS Type 2 - same test but opened up the outlet from the bolt on inlet as big as possible between it and the plenum - 582CFm at 25" 4.) I also tested it with the same as above, but with 1 inch holes in 4 places between the upper and lower plenum like you suggested - no real difference, just the flow into the runners did not seem as even. Pictures below are of this test. As a side note - with the above changes the pressure drop went way down as well. My opinion would be to leave the plenum alone and work on the bolt on inlet. Currently the inlet is only 60mm inlet where the others I have been testing are at 70mm. (Rons flowed a huge 844CFM and mine is at 650CFM both at 25â€) There is a lot of thick walls in the inlet and some serious porting really seems like it would help without messing up the nice even flow. I hope this helps Jeff As usual, click the pics to enlarge

When I first saw them I thought they were these http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129095 This was a post a while ago, about some wide flares that sold on E-bay. I believe they were special 432-R flares. The bolt holes look different on yours. I wonder if Alan (HS30-H) has any info about what they really are? Jeff

I use a Tec3R with an AIC solenoid. I turn the car on, wait for the fuel pump to run for a second or two then turn the key and it starts. The AIC opens a programmed amount for startup and then closes a little to keep the idle at 1200 until warm. Works great. The better part of the AIC is after blipping the throttle. It acts like a dashpot to keep the car from dropping the RPMs too fast and stalling with a very light flywheel. Electromotive makes a billet remote block for mounting an AIC valve really easy.

I have never had a problem. Been running them for years. Set up on the Z-head rocker wipe pattern is very critical. If you get it wrong, good-bye cam. I wonder if people blame the cam for their poor set-up, or lack of understanding?

Tony, I'll add some holes in the divider floor, but I dont think that is the only restriction point. I think it may also be between the seperate elbow part and the main plenum (lots of room for enlargement). I will do a little work to figure it out for you. Jeff

Just a little update. Been working non stop on the design trying to get it perfect. I have the flow really balanced out nicely between all runners. Now I am just looking at pressure drop, and total flow. I should be posting some final results of this design as well as all the other designs tested in my research. As far as making a quantity of these! It was never my intention to make any more than 1 for myself, but provide the information to the group to use it in the creation of their own designs. I am not really into the idea of using the forum as a sales tool as much as I am into it as a fantastic knowledge base.

I have been running the Bilsteins for about a year now, re-valved 300-100. I keep having a problem with the gland nuts loosing up. I locktited them this time, I hope I can get them apart someday? Anybody else have a problem with them coming loose?

It does sound like the correct center section, I just have no idea how the standard size wheel will react with the smaller A/R compressor housing. You would need to see a compressor map for that combo, as the standard map for the stock .7 A/R will no longer be accurate. Who knows it might be really good, but then, why doesnt Garrett offer it that way?

You Wish!! :D