MONZTER

OK I'll Play Engine size= 2.4l +1 Engine work done= Blanced and blueprinted stock rods, factory cast pistons and rings Compression Ratio= 10.6 Head= n-42 Head work done= Welded chambers to 36cc, and ported stainless under cut valves Cam= MSA Stage 3 Intake= modified non egr nissan Intake work done= Matched to intake ports Header & Exhaust= 6-1 header, with full 2/12" into a straight through muffler MSA stuff Type of Fuel control= Electromotive Type of Ignition control= Electromotive Rev Limit= 8000 Accessories= underdrive pully for alt. nothing else Dyno HP at wheels= 209.9 @ 6500 RPM Dyno Tq at wheels= 178.1 @ 5500 RPM MONZTER

I am the Senior Engineer for a bicycle company called Felt Racing www.feltracing.com. I usually am working on designing the latest ridiculously expensive carbon fiber race frames. Currently working with our Tour Team Garmin Chipotle, getting their new bikes finalized for next season. MONZTER

Great Idea David, I am sure this will be a big help to everyone out there. Thanks for helping the group. MONZTER

Hi Guys, I moved mine back as far as I could without removing the hood latch, or having to cut up the car. My purpose was not for weight distribution, but to make more room for the cold air intake, radiator fans/balancer, and to smooth out the bends to the turbo and intercooler. 3/4 was the max I wanted to go, which was enough for my needs mentioned above. MONZTER

check this http://burnsstainless.com/BTEC/btec.html

David, looking forward to the pictures, glad to have helped. MONZTER

HAHAH its missing a wheel too.

1 more non car related But I have this one up as well

Yep, for now just ran it 25" all runners one time. Once we get this pretty close we will run it again one runner at a time. (takes 6 times as long) and then under boost, (18psi) and somewhere around 700cfm. or whatever Justin wants it run at Step by step.

AHHHHHHH Still waiting for my long block to get back from machine shop jail Hi Tony

Hi Guys, I really just don’t have the time to build much right now. I have some heavy deadlines going on at work, so not much car work right now. Really it is a simple part. Just put a pc of paper over the holes and scrub the paper with a crayon. Draw some circles around the hole tracings and connect the dots. I cut mine out with a band saw and sanded it straight with a disc sander and drum sander. You can do it I know it. This would be a great first fab project for someone. Good luck MONZTER

I think the .100 weld els would do it with out a problem, there just heavy and not many options for a bend radius. I have seen some great looking manifolds made from els. MONZTER

Thanks, It has a wet clutch, no noise and feels great. Been riding to work everyday, I love it so far. Jeff

HAHAAH Thats true, but I think you will have a hard time finding any 304 in thicker than .065, unless you use weld els BTW a cracked 304 manifold will cost more than a good 321 one:grin: MONZTER

Well it did cost 11.00 to fill it up today I will follow the owners manual and try to keep it below 5000RPM for 500 miles, and lots of stop and go. Jeff

So I got Her a "twin" Isn't she pretty? And yes,I will use common sense and always were protection while I have fun with it. This will keep me entertained while the turbo motor is getting finished... MONZTER

What, Fram filters are the best... HA just kidding, that was the biggest Ford Filter I could find. I was using it for mocking up the mounts and coil packs, just wanted to make sure there was room for it all. I am thinking about getting one of the pure power billet cleanable ones. Anyone seen them?

It’s actually about 1/2 inch away, and I have made urethane engine mounts for the engine and trans, so the movement is next to nothing. (those are moustache bar bushings for the engine mounts) I actually just made new engine mounts to set it back 3/4 inch