MONZTER

The clutch uses Kevlar disc so not as light switchy as the bronze. It is OK for the street, just takes a little getting use to it

oops

I did tokicos on a friends 280. The insulators in the rear are much longer than a 240. In the front the insert touched the bottom no spacer, in the rear we had to cut and shorten the rear just a little and add a big spacer. this was because he was running camber plates of the same thickness front and rear. If we would have cut the rear struts short with no spacers the car would have had no droop travel in the rear. Now the Bilsteins are even shorter, so you may not even have to section the rear at all if you use thin camber plates. FYI I used no spacers on the front and long spacers on the rear for my 240 with the bilsteins

yes good stuff, and good ideas, I have already talked to the clutch maker about using a smaller ring gear to decrease the diameter a bit more (the unit is custom anyway). Malvern racing use to make an offset starter nose for the Hitachi gear reduction units. Not a problem to make one up and this is what I will be doing for my other z. There are also ways of hogging out the aluminum from the area between the ring gear and the pressure plate like some of the reduced weight steel units What is your take on too light of a flywheel for turbo cars and the engine slowing down too quick to keep the between shift boost lag down?

Dont go to him for engine builds or parts. Sway bars and stuff OK. He did a motor for me years ago, and it was not what he said it was. I mean in the quality of the work and the parts installed. He'll tell you what you want to hear. There are so many other better places to go. Just my .02

Its a 7" dual disk ClutchMaster stage 6 with no springs, all alumium billet. The complete flywheel and clutch assembly weighs about 17 pounds.

No Turbo, NA on Pump Gas

In the video you can hear it hit the rev limiter for a sec, so that 7700. I know what you mean about the tach, but I just cant part with the old school original look. When I degreed it in it came out to match the card. I set it straight up

This should be what I am running

Are you talking about the radiator cap?

OK so I made a really bad video of my car tonight. its dark and you can’t see much, but you can hear how it sounds I rev it like an idiot and drive like a fool. I know, I know, I usually save it for the track. It was some low traffic areas. You can kinda see the tach and that it doesn’t have much problem going past 6500 to the redline of 7700, but our West Coast tachs may be optimistically calibrated to read higher than it actually is by at least 30% HAHAH just kidding:icon12: Enjoy MonZter

I am going to set up a in car video and post it tonight so you guys can hear it (if it does not rain)

I am not sure about the thermocouple wire, there were cables everywhere from the sound equiptment. The hood was open during the runs. I believe the plot said SAE correction factor Never drag my car, just autocross

I dont have a scanner so I took a picture of the new plot

The first Dyno was on a Dynojet and this last one was on a Dynopack. it was done at Church Auto in Longbeach

Hi Guys, Yep, I dont know if they are correct or not, like I said, just what I have got from my 2 dyno sessions. Why would I assume that my engine is making that kind of power? Good question, as I am not some pro builder, nor claim to be. The only thing I can think is that my idea that less can be more may hold true. Just the right size ports, cam, compression and good fuel injection, just might be luck, or maybe its all crap. Dont know. Dont some of the Rebellow Strokers make 300hp on webbers? if so is 70 less hp possible?

This is the inside of the intake and some pics of the welded N-42, and the build

Hi Jon, No I don’t take any of this personal. There is always room to question such discussions, I enjoy it When I first built the engine I Dynoed it to have it roughed in. And then spent time breaking it in and then lots of street tuning. at that time it made 210 at the wheels. There have been changes to the intake and exhaust since then. Here is the Dyno plot from then. This time it was a different Dyno, different operator. You could be right that its wrong, but this is just what I got from them. One at 210 when first built and not fully tuned and 231.5 now. I personally do not know if this Dyno stuff is legit or not, and actually I don’t care if my car made less, I just know it runs pretty good for what it is Good discussion

The cam is the 270/280 stage 3. I feel many people overcam our nissan engines and bleed off too much dynamic compression. Dynamic compression is what I feel is the trick to getting a pump gas friendly moter with higher compression (along with quench) to have a nice linear power curve. Compression sounds about correct. 1mm over sized with flat tops sticking out .015, 1mm head gasket. maybe a touch more CR than that No CFD on the current intake, just some guess work. It has a bad zone about 3000 that I have to lean out and retard the timing a bit (less fuel burns quicker)

sick

Yep, thats it. Don't want any steam pockets in the head with the higher compression and pump gas max power was at 7000 and still going. I have the rev limiter set to 8000. Because it was on their dime they did not want to blow anything up, so they shut it down at 7000. I think it had more. I will post the charts when we can upload pictures again.

Correct, the intake was cut up and the plenum enlarged, the runners externally welded and straightened, as well as the throttle body being relocated. Oh ya 6 bolt flanges so it will bolt to an early head here is it roughed out