mobythevan

Anywhere on the line is the same for all practical purposes.

I am new to running a roots supercharger and was curious about a few basics since I picked up a used setup. What oil do I run in the charger and where can I get it? It is a B&M250. I was told I could run it without a pop off plate since it uses a 16rib marine belt system. Also I am not sure how to much to tension the belt. Any other basic advice for this type of setup. I have run turbos so I am aware of boost issues, just not supercharger specific stuff.

Scroll down in the thread if it doesn't index correctly. Just curious, I don't remember seeing it over here before, but I miss some posts. http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=30679.msg360291#msg360291

Its been a while but I soldered wires to connect up X10 and X11 to the harness which in turn brought them out to the relay block on S1 and S2 or something like that. Anyway I got them out to unused terminal block locations on the relay board.

The standard assembly of a megasquirt calls for D8 to be shorted for most applications. Chances are that yours is shorted already from the builder, but you might check with them if possible. Or examine the board yourself to determine if it has already been done for you.

You can tap off TPS Vref maybe, it supplies 5volt. I have used it for small stuff in the past that doesn't require much current.

I agree, pictures, good descriptions, no reserves and I always end my auctions on Mondays around 10 to noon. I figure most people are going to be at work and be able to watch and bid at the end.

Let me tell you an ebay story, not car parts but just to answer the question is it worth it (and a continuation of stupid ebay users) I have owned a bunch of video arcade stuff over the years and bought/sold it on ebay. One day my buddy says he will trade me and old beat up pit boss machine (very cheesy graphics, had draw poker, fortune teller, trivia, 6 or 7 games like that). He gave me the game because it was worthless and I pulled the boardset out and installed Arkanoid in it because I like addicting games like that. I asked the same question, is it worth it to list this POS board on ebay? I listed it for $10 and figured it would never get one bid. And then to my surprise and my buddies bigger surprise the board by itself pulled $170. I thought to myself that the buyer must have been mistaken about what I listed. I had given a very good description. I even emailed the buyer and said, you know this game is from 1988 right?(not collectable and not new enough to be cool). He payed and I never heard another word. So nowadays, I just list stuff and watch the money roll in and I have had very few things, even small datsun parts that haven't sold for a decent amount of money.

Sometimes my hair gets so much stuff in it from grinding and welding all day that I look at the black water in bottom of the shower and say OMG, if the wife saw this she wouldn't let me in the house again.

etc could be knock sensor, fuel pressure sensor, stuff like that isn't supported with the basic megasquirt install.

For any turbo megasquirt car I would recommend using MSnS_Extra The only time I would go MSII processor(implies MSII code) is for a non-turbo tuned port injection chevy engine. Then the MSII has the ability to control the IAC and you don't need the extra turbo/nitrous functions of the MSnS_Extra code.

Once you have a standalone wideband controller and sensor, then you can interface it to MSnS_Extra code to allow target AFR tables and logging of AFR values. There is some selection that needs to be made in the code based on the type of wideband unit you have. I am not sure about the software that comes with an LC-1

read up here to learn more about how a wideband sensor works. http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/

No. Wideband sensors require a very precise current control for the heater/pump. This in turn requires you to have a seperate wideband controller to run the sensor correctly. Ultramegasquirt and the precison wideband controller projects will allow you to just use a sensor, but those haven't been completed yet. Good question though.

Yes, add the resistor like the schematic shows for the TACH input wire.

I ended up agreeing to a mediation deal where the restraining order stays in place for a certain amount of time and is then dropped. We also agreed that if horses get into each others property the sheriff will be called to come out. No one will shoot guns when someone else is messing with livestock. Stuff like that. I guess it is working, I haven't seen aything weird out of them yet. I am not convinced it is over yet, but we'll see.

I'll confess I didn't read all the replies, but just in case someone did not mention it.... Vortec heads like less timing than older chevy heads. From what I have seen you run around 36-38 degrees total timing with old heads and around 32-34 with Vortec heads. Because of the better mixing combustion chamber less timing is needed. This may not be the whole problem but something to think about.

I see you've been to Boulder. In Colorado we really like to give Boulder a hard time if you couldn't tell.

from Boulder ehh, more likely story is that he was high and ate 2 tubes of liquid nails then glued himself to the toilet

according to my trusty hp estimation chart 12 at 114mph is right at 300hp to the ground in a 2600 pound car. heh heh, cool

They are optical encoder wheels

I think that would be a good way to go. Weld it up solid to get rid of vacuum advance. And take your time phasing the cap and rotor so during high advance the spark doesn't jump posts and you should be good.

If you like the DIY stuff and want to control fuel and spark completely then you could go the route I am with my BBC and 250 charger. Use this throttle body for TBI and megasquirt for control. I think you can pick up considerable mileage at cruise with MS controlled TBI setup versus carb. This throttle body bolts to holley pattern and I had mine bored out for 1000cfm flow. Just another option, I'm not saying it is the best.

This is what we run on small block chevy and should give you a starting point cranking dwell = 6 running dwell = 2.5 minimum discharge =1.5

If your using an 82 or 83 dizzy you should still use the pullup resistor on the "tach" input to MS. Pin 36 which fires the coil is suppose to be able to fire the coil directly with no module, just hook to the coil and set dwell.