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Grumpyvette: Your points are well taken. I will not restrict these drainback holes. This is a Hydraulic Roller Cam block so there is not much concern about cam lobe lubrication. On the other hand there is concern about lubrication of the roller bearings in the lifters. David Vizard had a method of drilling/machining the block such that there would be oil squirter orfices added to the block. The pictures were not very clear. The other consideration is loss of oil pressure or volume. The pistons are ceramic coated crowns and should transmit much less heat to the underside. The pistons are 4032 Forged SRP and are about the lightest available at 376gm each and lighter than Mahle equivalents. Now I just need a really good road racing oil pan. Have found same at Speedway Motors and it accomodates a Big Block Oil Pump. Trouble is, where ever you look on the Internet, None of the manufacturers give you a clear PICTURE of the inside of the pan to know what you are getting. Any suggestions on Racing Oil Pans with built in baffles and windage screen? Please advise. Thanks.

grumpyvette: I have a question. I am building a SBC 383 engine. There are 8 each 3/8-7/16 holes in the casting above the camshaft in the valley. Apparently these are for oil drainback. This 383 is being built as a performance engine for road racing, drag racing and street driving. Would like to plug the 8 oil drain back holes so that oil is not whipped around the crankshaft from the drain back from these holes. Also want to put an aftermarket oil pan that has baffling and will accomodate the Big Block Moroso Oil Pump that I have put onto it. The reason for the Big Block pump is that there are more teeth on the pump gears and therefore less chance of spark chatter induced into the distributor due to more teeth on the oil pump gears and the fact that the Moroso pump has anti cavitation grooves machined into it. What are your thoughts regarding the drain back holes etc.?

canyoncarver: Thanks VERY MUCH for your post. I have a 13x40 Southbend Lathe that I purchased locally and have tuned it up. Right now I am very happy with its performance. Next I will purchase a Bridgeport Milling Machine. Yesterday was offered a Chinese built Milling Machine for $3500.00. Thanks but not thanks as I would not know where to get parts for it if I needed them. As for the Southbend Lathe, just went on Ebay and found a fellow that make expendable parts for my lathe and the qualilty of his produced parts is fantastic. Now the South Bend Lathe is back in great shape and it was made in the 1940s. I talked with this fellow yesterday that runs a CNC machine shop and he voted my ideas down and referred me to someone that makes what I want for THOUSANDS of dollars. I believe that I can make it from aluminum stock for much less with a Bridgeport and a TIG welder. So I will purchase both of these.

logan1: Looks as though you got a good one. Just be smart and gentle about pulling it apart when restoring it and little damage will be done. Suggest cleanup and use Rust Bullet on the rusty spots. I have an early 1971 and your center console is the same as mine. I am in the process of rebuilding and modifying it. First took care of all the neglect. Now it runs and drives fine. Next proceed with the Mods. If you need help just shout on Hybrid Z forum and you will get all the answers you need.

JIM73240Z That is one WAY to get down force. It adds drag but if there is enough horsepower and torque to overcome it then it appears to the be main way to go about getting front downforce.

Grumpyvette: I will second the comment regarding cylinder heads. Good heads in combination with good headers, good intake manifold and good camshaft make all the difference when it comes to power. Without good heads, its a LOOSING BATTLE.

Horatio: What functions do you want the electronics to do?

rooster287: Have the front Lower Control Arms (LCA) ball joints checked for undue wear. Put the car on the hoist and twist the wheel inward and outward top and bottom respectively and also twist the wheel laterally to check for steering rack and tie rod end slop. This is a two man job, one to apply the twisting force and the other experienced person to watch for slop in ball joints, rack and tie rod ends. Once all of these are fairly tight (not sloppy) then align caster, camber and toe-in. Sloppyness usually occurs from the steering coupler doughnut, Tension/Compression rubber doughnuts and rubber mounts for the steering rack. Replace all these and whatever is sloppy in the steering/suspension and with a proper front end alignment it will steer as straight as an arrow flies.

Waddiejohn: What is or does IPA stand for?? Please advise.

This is EXTREMELY interesting and will follow same. Am interested in doing something similar to my 240Z such that it has good aero at higher speeds. Also want to form a duct from a smaller opening in the air dam to a larger radiator opening to obtain very good radiator cooling. Additionally would like to get a scoop for engine air intake, above the radiator intake, to form a ram air intake. Need to make up cardboard panels to try out some of these ideas.

This is EXTREMELY interesting. Would like to do the same and also fab a duct with a smaller opening to the radiator. The desire is to get aero such that my 240Z is stable at higher speeds and also get VERY good cooling of the radiator.

aziza z: NEVER assume that you have a good ground on the alternator. Run as big a wire bolted to the case of the alternator as that running to the battery for charging. This is the HIGH amperage charging circuit. Perhaps the later (latest) alternators are supplied with a voltage for excitation other than 12 volts but that would seem STRANGE. If the cable from the battery to the starter and cable from the alternator to the battery are of sufficient heavy gauge, the inductive spikes from the starter should be absorbed by the battery. The type/model of (GM?) alternator still needs to be identified in order to know better what is going on with your situation.

That's all it takes is persistence. ARP and Dorman both have them but in 1.5 threads per millimeter versus 1.25 on the Z cars. 1.5 is much more standard and that is what I put in my 240Z.

Grumpyvette: I am in the same mode with the Lathe. Its an old one about as old as I am and I am retired. Got it leveled and tested for accuracy and it good. Now I need a New Quick Change Tool Post. Then I will be looking for a follow rest, Tool Bits, Milling Vise attachment, Lathe Dog for flat plate etc etc. For a used Lathe, I am more than satisfied at the moment. Just got done repainting most of it NAVY gray.

Grumpyvette: I took my SBC block to the engine machine shop, to have the tops of the lifter bosses milled for clearance for the link bar on solid roller lifters. It had a hydraulic cam and solid roller lifters and was told that solid roller camshaft is different than hyd roller camshaft and the two should not be used together. In your experience what is the difference between the two camshafts with the same specs such that they must be of the same type? Please advise. Thanks.

Grumpyvette: I believe you are the one that purchased a Milling Machine. If so how are you coming along with it just curious. I purchased a Metal Lathe and am in the process of getting it tuned up and getting the proper tools for it. Please respond. Thanks.

jbc3: Which lifters did you use in this engine? Please advise. Thanks.

Roostmonkey: Thanks, now I have a plan of attack. Next is to study the Adams book carefully and gain another angle of attack for the Roll Cage.

Fellows: Thank both of you. Now I can order 1.5 x 3" .090 wall rectangular tube and enough of it to accomplish the strenghening of the 240Z. First per John Coffey's recommendation, is to remove the engine, trans etc. to put remove the strain on the structure and then cut and weld the subframes and outriggers.

Jon: I think I already have that book. Just need to go back and study it CAREFULLY.

Roostmonkey: Very nice photos. This is exactly the way I want to do my 240Z. I see the outriggers just ahead of the rear wheel well and gives a place to weld the roll cage in the interior. You mentioned .75 x .75" angles. Are these angles on either side of the 1.5x3" rect tube. If so then I understand it completely. Is so, that appears to add more strength to the floor panels. VERY NICE JOB you have done!

You fellows are absolutely correct. I went out and took the 2x3 tub with then looked and found the floor pan is lower than the horizontal portion of the lower rocker panel by 1+ inches. Adding 2 inches to that and there are serious issues with ground clearance. Search the forums and found EMWHYR0HEN had done something similar but with 1x3" rectangular tube. Even at that it would be wise to cut the floor pan 3" wide and project the 1x3" rect tube upward by 1/2" into the cabin. Then the original clearance underneath will be maintained. Already have shortened all struts on the 240Z and installed Koni Shocks and 2.5" coil springs per John Coffey's instructions. Just wondering about how to get tubing immediately behind the rocker panels and join it up with outriggers from the 1x3" subframe connectors. Maybe it would be easier overall to just go with Bad Dog subframe connectors. Still concerned about torsional rigidity.

John: The 2x3 rect tubes replace the original subframe rails. I reviewed photos and I stand corrected they only extend downward 1/2 to 3/4". These are only the start of the project to eliminate the bent upward passengers floor and subframe below it. I want to extend outriggers from the 2x3" tubes to accomodate added round tubes that I would like to run behind or tied into the rocker panels. Outriggers will be added both front and rear. If I can, it would be good to go from outside to outside on the rear to cross the longitudinal 2x3" rect tubes and cut sandwich and weld the 2x3 long and cross tubes behind the seats. The round tubes would join outriggers at the front and lateral cross member 2x3 tube at the rear. I want to get a tube bender and standardize on 1.75" tube whether it be 4130 0.083" or 0.120 wall DOM. I will purchase a TIG welder or get someone to use same on the Roll Cage and joining 2x3 rect tubes. Safety is PARAMOUNT and thanks to you have already picked out certified racing seats and belts.

Gentlemen: The stock 240Z subframe rails are approximately 1.5" tall already. So maybe if I put the 2x3" rect tube BELOW the floor then I will lose 0.5" ground clearance. If the floor is cut to 3.0" across and the 2x3" tube is extended above the floor by 0.5" then there will be nearly no loss of ground clearance. I want to keep the nose of the 240Z as low as possible and put an air dam with splitter to reduce any lift generated underneath the front of the vehicle. I am leaning toward extending the tube above the floor as it makes for a good place to weld the Roll Cage to the rect tubing to torsionally stiffen the whole thing. The strut towers and Roll Cage will also have triangulated stiffening added yielding a more rigid structure. Will try to get lighter weight tubing (.085 4130 steel) above the floor to keep the CG as low as possible.

Grumpyvette: Sorry for the last post. Am upset with Compcams and the tech rep that I talked to. Went to the local engine shop today and he said that the Compcams hydraulic roller lifters I bought (875-16) were specifically made for performance yet he did not offer any proof of what he was saying. To me, it appeared that Compcams was pulling a slight of hand by documenting into bold print the lifter pre-load of zero to 1/8th turn. With that pre-load it appeared that even the GM factory lifters would not pump up at upper RPMs.