rsicard

ColtGT4g63: Whose Roll Cage did you use or is it custom made? I take it that those are 1/8 mile times. Is that correct?

SoCalJack: When I changed the differential and shocks on my 240Z, I sprayed a spackle white and grey paint in the wheel wells and underbody where the diff and half shafts came out, and damn does it look nice. Additionally, with the lighter color it is easy to tell when there is a leak of fluid from the Diff. I intend to do the same thing to the engine compartment when converting to a V8 engine. Just my $0.02.

HowlerMonkey: Is this to say that stratisfied charge is direct injection or vice-versa? Direct Injection Gasoline is a very interesting subject. The high pressure fuel is the same method used in Diesel Engines. What mechanism do the direct injectors use? Is is magnetic or piezo electric? Bosch pioneered the piezo electric injectors. With multiple spray events piezo injectors are likely being used as they have a faster response time. For all those following posts on these subjects, I was at the Super Chevy show/drag meet and met a gentlemen, who was Drag Racing, that said his sweet spot for ignition timing lead on a Small Block Chevrolet engine is 41 degrees! He describe the amount of dome on the pistons and the compression ratio. I was absolutely flabergasted. He did not have a CLUE about combustion flame travel speed. The dome impedes faster travel of the flame front and therefore MORE lead timing is needed. The trick is to use a FLAT top piston with a SMALL chamber head, for compression, that has good swirl and quench/squish with LESS lead ignition timing.

The LT1 engine DOES have the 1 piece rear main seal crankshaft and the diameter and bolt pattern are DEFINITELY different. Not sure about the Centerforce 2 piece rear main seal flywheel mating up with the pull to disengage clutch and pressure plate that was standard behind the 93-97 T56 transmission. And Centerforce people at SEMA in Las Vegas informed me as to exactly what GM part number bolts to use. Special ordered the bolts from GMpartsdirect.com.

MYRON: I would try to make a mold from the original dash. And I am definitely going to install the smallest Vintage Air AC/Heat system. I am going to go with Autometer Speedo and Tach in a 3.x", such that green, blue and red LEDs can be mounted around the Speedo, dual Westach for oil pressure/coolant temp and Voltmeter/Fuel Quantity and a rebuild clock right most in the dash. I will use the metal portion of the instrument bucket to mount the Autometer gauges. Uncertain yet about mounting the Westach gauges. I will likely document this process with pictures. Now I need to sort out and document the wiring harness behind the instrument panel. Considering buying harness(es) to be able to document same much more thoroughly that is to include connectors and expansion of same. I still maintain that a Carbon Fibre or Fiberglass dash that FITS like the original as in plug and play is STILL HIGHLY DESIREABLE

John: I don't believe there was any association between grooves and a screen under the carb. As for the grooves, I cannot substantiate that they INCREASE power. They MAY improve combustion chamber turbulence and therefore MAY INCREASE fast or more complete burn.

Daeron: Where does "I have to point out that .033" is a VERY wide piston-to-head clearance for a quench pad... .024-.021 is what I hear is the sweet spot." come from?

Noddle: Thanks ever so much for this link. It adds to what I already know about grooves and one of the fellows on Turbobrick I have already run into on other forums. He is very knowledgeable about grooves and brings experience with him.

JLT: Thanks ever so much. You have opened another VERY good door of experience and knowledge concerning usage of grooves. I have run into one of these fellows posting on Turbobrick before. He appears to be the most experienced in grooves.

EvilC: Now I know why the snubber I fabbed according to a drawing here on Hybridz did not fit my early 71 240Z when installing a long nose R200. Drilled two extra holes to make things line up and then fabbed another piece as a snubber accessory to the other fabbed bracket. Now the nose of the R200 CANNOT rise under strong torque.

Myron: Thanks much for the comment. Yes it is a shame to cover it up but that is what must be done in Arizona in the summer time. Just use a dash cover when outside. Inside take off the dash cover and show off the carbon fiber. It still remains in my mind the number one item that would sell to 240, 260 and 280Z owners. Since you have started a foam mold maybe the folks in Prescott Arizona could use same?

bruin_d: Don't be mislead, the 93-97 T56 is mounted behind a SBC with a 153 tooth flywheel that goes onto a 1 piece rear main seal crankshaft. This is exactly what I am putting into my 1971 240Z. I purchased a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and centerforce clutch, pressure plate and specific bolts to match.

RedFive: I hear a lot of different requests most of which are already available and the remainder are insignificant. Being an owner of a 240Z, the LEAST available and most expensive item to refurbish or replace is the Dash. Most ALL 240Z, 260Z and 280Z Dashes are cracking from being in the sunlight and when refurbing same the same results can happen when exposed to the sunlight. I suspect that carbon fibre will last MUCH longer than a black paint or vinyle. Therefore there are MANY 240Z, 260Z and 280Z candidates for a carbon fibre dash. I would encourage you to purchase a 240Z and disassemble the dash to see what is being talked about here and to get a VERY GOOD insight for fitting and mold makeup. There is only one other Fibre Glass Dash being manufactured and it sounds as though it takes significant work to make it fit and finalize the installation. After owning a 240Z, the Dash is the most conspicious and usually BAD. A carbon fibre dash would be quite an asset for these owners.

UR50SLO: I am wondering how many following this thread have read the popular hotroding article you attached. This is the one that I will most closely follow for recommendations for quench. This applies ONLY to Normally Aspirated engines. Boosted engines are another matter. Using grooves SLIGHTLY reduces compression and may likely ENHANCE the quench action.

UR50SLO: Thanks much.

UR50SLO: Your right on the MARK again and express it extremely well. You have made me even MORE convinced to use grooves. Now, would one groove aimed at the spark plug be enough or would two additional radiating outward from the chamber/plug area to cover the remaining area of the quench pad be better? Since you have first hand experience in this subject I will take your recommendations. The other question is what tools do you use to make the grooves? Finally, can you describe or post pictures of the BEST configuration of grooves i. e. depth, width, length etc? I have a set of aluminum heads which I am contemplating doing. Please advise. Thanks.

UR50SLO: I believe that you are RIGHT ON the mark. High Compression does not make Tons of Horse Power! As for "Ever put a screen under your carb/" this is true also. The leader in MAF sensors will tell you that taking off the screen ahead of the MAF sensor screws up the MAF sensor characteristics. The screen straightenes and evens out the flow of air. As for grooves, I have done research on other forums and the results of grooves has alway been positive. That is not to say that there is a power gain, but there is more complete and therefore must be FASTER combustion. As for Mr. Singh's stating that there should be .078" between the head and top of piston, I would suspect that he ran into Internet articles where quench/squish has been optimized by way of tightening the distance between head and piston (David Vizard recommends FLAT TOP PISTONS not raised dome) and the results are FASTER BURN combustion as David Vizard and GM have already producted, proven and tested. This puts David Vizard and Mr. Singh at ODDS with each other such that neither ( I surmize) will comment about the others combustion modifications. But Mr. Vizard's methods ALWAYS come from research and testing before and after modifications. The gist that I get out of the grooves is that if it creates more turbulence and complete mixture burn, then combining same with tight quench/squish will yield a more complete mixture burn.

Gentlemen: This is the issue that I would like answered by Mr. Sing himself. What Jon says I believe to be true. I am building a 383 Gen 1 SBC and it has been decked to 9.005" deck height or .005 piston down in the cylinder at TDC. I have purchased AFR 195 heads and they have been tested to deliver the most power (best velocity and swirl on the market) for this displacement. I would like to go with a .028" compressed thickness head gasket which yields .033" quench/squish clearance. The bottom end is TOTALLY forged. I do this because it should generate the greatest in cylinder turbulence and thus fast burn.

The threads were not followed as it is NOT a 180. David Vizard has yet to comment on grooves on Gofastnews.com. If he does try grooves, he will do pre and post dyno tests and data gathering to see what the results are. I suspect they will replicate the data that has already been gathered concerning same.

There will always be skeptics and optomists. Example: The person that invented reverse cooling flow for the Small Block Chevrolet engine got into a court battle with GM concerning rights to use the invention. GM used reverse cooling for 3 years and then stopped. Since there is a patent for grooves, perhaps automotive manufacturers are hesitant to use it as they would have to pay royalties. From those that have used grooves, the feedback has always been POSITIVE.

acidrain088: I have been down this road. Went from 240Z Stub Axles to 280Z stub axles. Found out even they are subject to breakage. Found out modern motorsport replacement 280Z stub axles have broken under enough torque right where the axle necks down to the spline portion. Now I have the BEEFY 280Z stub axle that modern motorsport sells and that one should stand up to the torque as for all practicle purposes DOES NOT neck down for the splined portion of the shaft. I have installed these and will be going to a 383 cu in Gen 1 SBC. Additionally, I purchased the four bolt (outboard) CV half shafts that snap into the R200, in my case a clutch limited slip R200 differential. Search here and the internet about the R200 and the facts will come your way.

UR50SLO: Those articles really describe the benefits of the grooves in the cylinder heads. Thanks SO much for posting same. They give good insight to the subject.

Roger: I am always interested in experiences concerning grooves. Did your fathers 283 have grooves in the cylinder heads. If so please describe. More about the "Flame Trails" if you can. I have seen pictures of heads that have the groove and been run and they appear clean. Maybe that was because they were not run for an extensive amount of time?

Bugatti: Damn nice exhaust plumbing. Way to go.

Xnhe: Thanks very much for your post. Did as you said and googled EVIC mk1. VERY interesting. I know the concept has been proven. Now it is a matter either electromagnetic/electronic, pneumatic/electronic or hydraulic/electronic control and actuation of the engine valves. The other difficulty with PRODUCTION of this concept is the software executive loop times MUST be very fast in order to accommodate the upper RPM ranges. The software will have to contend with the delays from signal activation to actual activation of the valves.