rsicard

kk240: I have an 11" centerforce dual friction clutch and a Fidanza Aluminum 153 tooth flywheel. Have NO intentions to use a hydraulic throw out bearing. A fellow that I used to work with had a jeep with a hydraulic throw out bearing and he hated it because when it failed, which it did, it required removing the transmission to replace the throw out bearing. This is why I stayed away from same. Using GM adapter and McLeod slave hydraulic cylinder to actuate pull-type clutch. Have not installed same but expect only one problem and that is the trans tunnel interference with the slave cylinder. I can handle that. Talked with AMP performance from Phoenix at the super chevy show last weekend at the drag strip and he said that he can fix the weak points in the T56 transmission. I think that I will make a fixture and do it myself by ordering the parts and just doing it.

SATAN: The same DAM thing happens to the 280Z stub axles when used with the CV half shafts and the 300ZXT R200 CLSD. I was one of the few that received a BEEFED up stub axles from MM which should eliminate this happening. The BEEFED stub axles no longer have the abrupt step down to the spline portion of the shaft. It is only a step down enough to be able to slip the bearings onto the shaft. I have a SBC and want to get 500+ Ft/Lbs torque from same transmitted to the R200 CLSD through the Turbo CV half shafts to the BEEFY stub axles to the wheels and tires.

waterjetguy and MYRON: Called JustDashes in California and they quoted $1200.00 to refurbish my 240Z dash. Once they are done don't know the chances of it cracking again from being in the sun for a short period of time here in Aridzona. 20 hours labor into $1200.00 yields $60.00/hour and likely waterjetguy shop labor rate is $100.00+. Maybe there are other factors unknown to myself in the process. Looks like I will just have to reburbish the dash on my own.

streeteg: Now THAT is the kind of aero front end that I WANT. You have done a magnificent job on all of the aero on your Datsun. Just needs a splitter at the bottom of the air dam in front to get maximum downforce at speed. PLEASE tell us what parts you used to accomplish these aero modifications.

NCZZZ: Have done this exact modification and plenty more. If you have a stock rear strut and spring, you should have more than adequate room for the MM CV adapters and CV halfshafts. I went further by shortening the struts, installing 8" coilovers and adjustable sleeves for the bottom of the coil spring. Additionally, I have a R200 Clutch Limited Slip Differential installed. The shortened struts put somewhat a squeeze on the drivers side CV half shaft yet I still have a small amount of play with the rear struts cambered outward. All of this is in my early 1971 Series 1 240Z.

280ZForce: With all due respect, I have read the description but cannot visualize this "This rotates the strut housing by a small amount and because the strut tube is angled away from the center of the hub, the top of the strut will try to rotate toward the back of the car. Well guess what: The top of the strut is captured by the bearing in your camber plates. You just put your strut in a bind." I would expect that with camber plates there are spherical bearings which allow free movement in any of three axis. Just cannot visualize what was described here. If you try to explain it should be clear beyond any doubt to the person reading same. The person reading the explanation cannot visualize what is in the authors head without a very clear explanation. Not trying to be as ass about this but am trying to visualize EXACTLY the disadvantage of the "H" type arms.

kk240: Sorry, I got off track. The adapter between the T56/LT1 bellhousing and the slave cylinder is a GM part that I purchased from GMpartsdirect.com. I purchase an aluminum Fidanza flywheel and Centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate off of Ebay. Talked to Centerforce at SEMA and they Email me the GM part number for the SPECIFIC bolts to use to mount the pressure plate to the flywheel. I will try to get you all this information.

280ZForce: Thank you VERY much for your posting. This makes one think a lot more about the rear suspension geometry and its action/reaction using the two differing designs. It appears that on your design the front heim joint should be adjusted for camber and the rear will set the toe-in or toe-out. Is this correct? Please advise. Thanks.

kk240: The adapter I was referring to is between the T56/LT1 bellhousing and the McLeod slave hydraulic cylinder mounts on it. I will photograph this setup and send to you such that you can visualize same.

rdelat: This is one of the most aerodynamically slick front air dams I have seen so far. Are you going to make these for the 240Z? Please advise. Thanks.

Xnke: The first thing to consider for compression ratio and reducing detonation is the configuration of the piston and cylinder head combustion chamber. The best way to reduce detonation and increase power is to have a piston with a quench pad or flat top. The combustion chamber should match up with the piston to promote adequate quench/squish. Then the proximity of the quench pad or top of piston to the quench pad of the cylinder head is VERY important to reduce detonation. A space of .030" between piston quench pad and flat portion of the cylinder head yields a great detonation reducer. A bare aluminum cylinder head can be run one point of compression over a cast iron head. The aluminum head absords heat faster than cast iron. After these two configurations and compression ratio are set, then select the appropriate camshaft.

Cisco: That is a good looking 280Z. The carpet looks as though it has been replaced. Is that the stock location for the fuse panel? The remainder of the interior looks very good. I moved from the Minneapolis area back in 1979 to the southwest. Two months in the winter without the sun was a bummer. Have fun with the 280Z.

ragefear: I am definitely concerned about fitment. Either of the two RAM intake manifolds MAY be too tall for the original hood. I willl have to wait and order the bare manifold and try for fitment. Did find a Hot Rod article concerning the Edelbrock RAM manifold and its height compared against a 4 barrell carb manifold. If it fits, it will be close.

zeeboost: Can't really exhaust the hot air underneath the hood with these types of mounts. I am planning a tunnel to the radiator in front of same and squirrel cage fans at the rear blowing out into the wheel wells with a 2 speed fan and shroud behind the aero SEALED radiator.

ColtGT4g63: I have a similar project going for my 240Z except that it is a Gen I not a Gen III engine. Using 383 stroker with AFR 195 heads and all forged bottom end. Debating using NEW design CompCams hydraulic roller lifters. Looking at shaft roller rocker arms. Starting out with a Holley carb but ending up with Gen 111 EFI Drive by Wire system.

80LT1: Summit covered the WEAK GM design opti spark distributor. This is why I use Summit Racing. If there is a next time, order the MSD unit as it is MUCH sturdier. I expect the 1994 Roadmaster to sail through 200K miles. The only serious work that may have to be done is replacing the roller lifters.

Bartman: Suggest Stainless Steel replacements. Some of the originals may be WEAK.

WizardWorks: Strongly suggest going to ARP Main Bearing Studs. They will SAVE the threads in the engine block. I used Blue Loctite for the block portion of the studs.

Kipsi: I really like the looks of those wheels. What size are the wheels?

Bartman: I ordered a MSD opti spark distributor from Summit Racing and got the wrong one. Took it apart and the GM distributor and visually compared the two. The optical wheel was MUCH better secured on the MSD unit. The GM unit looked WEAK in this aspect. The MSD unit included an mechanical adjustable pickup and the cap and rotor were MUCH sturdier according to visual inspection. The 1994 Roadmaster still get 24 MPG on road trips.

Zcarlover: That hump in the hood helps. I just wonder if it is enough of a hump. Looking forward to your refitting the hood and knowing the results. Got a chuckle out of the statement "Japanese were thinking of this swap when they put that nice hump in the hood". I am looking forward to installing the SBC and transmission. First the old 6 cylinder and transmission will have to come out. Then beef up the subframe, cleanup and paint the engine compartment, then install the V8 and Trans.

80LT1: If you have to replace the Opti again, use the MSD unit. Put one of these in my 1994 Buick Roadmaster that has a LT1 and the quality if MUCH better than GM.

kk240: Fidanza, McLeod and Centerforce all have flywheels available for LT1/T56 combination. McLeod has the hydraulic slave clutch cylinder for the pull type T56 bell housing. There is a cast adaptor made by GM that goes between the slave cylinder and the T56 bellhousing. All of this is what I am installing in my 240Z.

Zcarlover: Apparently you have already installed the Ram Jet 350. I would like to install the Ram Jet Manifold also but am VERY curious as to clearance from the top of the manifold to the hood. Would you please comment on same. Thanks.

HowlerMonkey: It's very INTERESTING to look at new technologies to see if some of it can be extracted and used in the near future. As for direct injection, the reaction time of the injectors and speed of the driving electronics are the basis of this type of injection. Software and data acquisition and tweaking the software algorithms are the keys to increase efficiency.