rsicard

Grumpyvette: The reason for the concern is that I would like to install the ARP rocker studs myself. I have the CompCams tools to mill the boss and the tap to thread the holes. I need to know if this can be done with a 1/2" hand drill. I will purchase the drill/tap alignment tool from SummitRacing to keep the drill and tap in alignment when drilling/threading the holes. Next I want to decrease the height of the cast-in valve guide/boss. I have the .530 guide machining tool from Powerhouse tools and just received the spring seat machining tool from them also, which I tried to cancel, BUT it reduces the lower portion of the cast in boss down to .630" which is NOT what I need as the lower portion of the valve guide/boss does a nice job of locating the Crane H-11 tool steel spring that I purchased which are a drop-in replacement for the Vortec Springs. The height of the valve guides has to be reduced to accomodate the LT4 Hot Cam that is going into this engine to achieve .525 valve lift. Your further comments would be appreciated

Grumpvette: I am building a SBC with ported Vortec Heads. I have stamped steel 1.6 rocker arms and want to install ARP rocker studs. At present it has the factory pressed-in studs that measure 1.35" above the stock stud boss. I need to install guideplates as the rocker arms are non-self-centering. Would it be better to use the raised guideplates or the straight ones? As best as I can determine from the internet, the guideplates are .110" thick. If I use ARP rocker studs which are 1.75" from top to face of stud boss, then I should mill 1.75" less 1.35" which is .400" plus .110" for a total of .510" off the boss? Does this appear correct to you? I may have to increase the amount milled off the boss as the threaded portion of the stock stud is LONGER than the ARP threaded portion of their stud. Should this milling be done by a milling machine, with head fixture, or can it be done by myself with a 1/2" hand drill and the appropriate CompCams tool? Your thoughts and advice on these aspects please. Thanks.

Grumpyvette: Aside from Carbs, I would like to get your thoughts as to the differences between MAP and Speed Density base fuel injection systems. I am told that the former is better? Some at the EFI Live sight folks are disabling the MAF sensor and going specifically Speed Density based on the MAP sensor and throttle position. FoMoCo EEC-IV is believe uses the MAF sensor and throttle position primarily for determining fuel injector pulse width firing of the injector. Your thoughts one this subject please. Thanks.

Rags: Suggest getting on EFI Live forum and asking more questions. I am also going to use EFI Live and went to their booth at SEMA this year. Already have PCM, need harness, sensors and actuators. Where were you able to get your harness? Which Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor are you going to use and did you get the other sensors and actuators with the engine? Please advise. Thanks.

Grumyvette: Need your advice. Have SBC Vortec heads and want to mill down the valve guides for greater valve lift. What are the outer diameter spec(s), larger for bottom of spring location and upper for valve seals and Compcam tool numbers PLEASE. Also need source and part number for milling tool to shorten Stud bosses for guide plates and thread-in studs. Intend to use drill press at slow speed with head holding fixture to shorten bosses. Then use Proform stud removal and tap alignment tool to thread boss to install guide plates and threaded studs. Please advise. Thanks.

DandyZ: Ran into the same situation after installing shortened rear struts. Am using MSA adjustable rear inboard aluminum ADJUSTABLE bushings. Need to readjust them again. These adjustable bushings (you need to purchase the wrenches also) are manufactured as adjustable eccentrics. It appears that the front bushings need to be adjusted all the way outward and the rears almost all the way inboard in order to reduce positive camber and put toe-in to its smallest value. Requires purchasing the adjustable bushings and 2 each wrenches for same.

Grumpyvette: Do you have any articles on balancing V8 engines when all component weights are known and crank maximum bobweight is also known? Please advise. Thanks.

bjhines: VERY VERY Nice Job. I am planning nearly the same route on the exhaust. Ceramic coated Sanderson headers and use that wrap down the headers and header pipe to keep the heat inside (not outside) the exhaust system. Just wondering, with the cross-over and Flo-Pro mufflers, HOW DOES IT SOUND??? Is there any bark or just a smooth flow of nice pulses of sound due to the cross-over and mufflers??? PLEASE ADVISE. Thanks.

Not certain about the body design, but a diesel hybrid SHOULD be the (near) future. It should use 4th or 5th generation Lithium Ion Batteries and BioDiesel fuel. Additionally, it should have a 220Volt AC plug in for recharging of the batteries which can be used solely for in-town use. The Diesel portion can be used for highway driving. Any comments?

rwwisnesky: Where does one find the paint that you used for under the hood? I really like same as it makes everything VERY NEAT. Also, who's engine mounts are those that you used? Please advise. Thanks.

Myron: I really like what you have done. It's great! Noticed the opening on the left hand side behind the front wheel. Is this the Exhaust? If so this is very neat and gave me ideas. Thanks.

ezzzzzzz: What is the projected cost for these stub axles and companion flanges? I need 4 and 5 bolt on 4.5" wheel stub pattern with companion flanges to accept 300ZX Turbo CV half shafts to center section. What will the availability of these be? Please advise. Thanks.

Myron: Have you finished the fixture to build rear control arms. If so it would be nice to send a deposit and have you send the fixture so that I can make a set of rear control arms made of Chrome-Moly Tubing.

Xnke: From a combustion standpoint the closed-chamber is more desireable. If you are to use the 9cc dish pistons then do so but suggest that you have them thermal barrier coated on top. Use www. kb-silvolite.com to determine compression ratio. At 9.1:1 you should still be able to run 87 octane. With the pistons ceramic coated, the combustion chambers thermal barrier coated, valve faces thermal barrier coated and exhaust ports thermal barrier coated you may well get away with a higher compression ratio and still run 87 octane (cheapest) without detonation. I have done this very thing to a Chev 454 bored .030" and stroked 0.75" gone from 118 cc to 110cc aluminum heads and STILL run 87 octane just fine. The above suggestions are on the order of what David Vizard (an engine guru) suggests. He recommends FLAT TOP pistons for flame travel in the combustion chamber. Assemble the short block less piston rings and see how much above or below the deck the top of the pistons are. Zero deck to slightly above is optimum.

Derek: I just love small companies and "He's really a great guy and has a firm handle on the home brew "build it on a dime" mentality. " This is really too cool.

Thanks very much to Wheelman for the advice on the hydraulic fittings.

This is a VERY GOOD thread and I have already obtain the Subaru PS rack. Have been following your instructions. The one remaining item is the hydraulic fittings. I believe these are metric and where and how did you find the adapters to go from metric to the GM PS pump? Any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Fellows it appears that the most desirable and least available is replacement dashes for the 240Z and 280Z. I have a 240Z and am converting it to a V8 and modern transmission. Even a refurbished stock dash only has room for 2 each 5" Speedo and Tach and 3 each 2&1/16th" or 2&3/8th" instruments. This comes UP ONE SMALLER INSTRUMENT SHORT! Usually one wants Oil Pressure, Cooling Water Temp, Volt or Amps and Fuel Quantity. That is (4) Four smaller instruments. A dash which could accomodate these and is in the style of the original dash but made of much stronger material would sell in sufficient quantities whereas some of the other items discussed are available from multiple sources. Additionally the a center counsole with a standard width opening would allow a stack of radios, other accessories or blanking plate allowing room for more custom stuff. Lastly the horizontal center counsole is another rare piece to find or pricey to purchase and not of carbon fibre makeup. These are some of the ideas that I have to offer.

Arne: Thanks much for the photos. I purchased a 1971 Datsun 240Z and the only real big thing it has wrong with it is the aftermarket sun roof. It leaks when driven in the rain here in the Desert in Arizona. From your photos now I know how to go about reskinning the roof of my 240Z. Thanks again. Rolland Sicard Tucson, Arizona

Sure looks like a R200. I just got done going through one. This one IS NOT a LSD as the flange to which the ring gear bolts IS NOT 2 pieces as the LSD is. It also appears to have the 12millimeter bolts in the ring gear and on the bearing caps.

The '87-'95 blocks are nearly the same as '96-'99 blocks. The latter has roller lifters, one-piece rear main seal, and used the Vortec fast burn cylinder heads. Please take a look at the Dart Pro1 Platinum Aluminum Cylinder heads. These have the latest wet flow testing of the port design. With the proper camshaft, cylinder heads, intake and carb is capable of getting 500+HP and 500+FtLbs of Torque. Also please consider ceramic coating the tops of the pistons and slippery coating the skirts. Also the exhaust port, cylinder side of intake and exhaust valves ceramic coated to prevent heat penetration into the piston and valves and migration of heat from the exhaust to intake port. Just some ideas.

rwwisnesky: What is the GOOD looking Coating that you used in the engine compartment? It really looks good and I would like to use something very similar on my silver 240Z. Please advise. Thanks.

Check the fuel pump circuit and oil pressure switch

What size tires are the V710's? What are the specs on the wheels?

John C. I absolutely loved the Hans Stuck ring video. Thanks much for sharing it.