WizardBlack

I installed the new .190" Nissan Comp lash pads that I got from MSA. First of all, they made the 3 intake look like the 3 exhaust (as far as wipe pattern goes). All of the rest of them moved up in width about the same amount. On a side note, the lash pads I got from MSA were ridiculous. They were covered in rust! I soaked them for a while and then carefully cleaned them up. I suspect the last litle bit will get worn off where needed. There isn't enough to break off and cause grit in the oil or anything. It does, however, show what MSA's concern for quality is.

LOL, that is awesome!

The failure to run right sounds like electronics based on other electric issues. I quickly changed a lot of wiring, power, alternator stuff on my car, so I don't recall how the exact stock system works, but it sounds like your voltage regulator is bad. It could cause a good battery to drain, kill a fuel pump or pop the fuse, maybe smoke a ignition setup, etc. Definitely the kind of intermittent (maybe heat based) issue electrical stuff could cause.

While he is in there, he needs to replace the "Autozone" plastic vacuum piping on the charcoal cannister (or whatever the red painted can on the right front area is) with stuff that doesn't get brittle and leak so quickly.

New valve stem seals? Brand? Cam?

IMHO, don't waste your time with the non-vented setup. You got the right stuff. If you don't have the money right now, just sit on the calipers.

The HE351 that I have creeps a bit on my 2.8L, but having ported it out, I can say that they are built very well.

Why do you say that? They were mirror smooth when I pulled them out. I actually drew them across wet/dry 1500 grit sand paper to clear the last of the oil varnish off and affirm they were decently straight. I did this before I took pics. The only thing I saw on the rockers was a very slight indent where the base circle sits.

Engine MAP, no? You want a relative gauge?

Bumpity. Ktm, is there any way you can relink the pics of your head?

Juice enough to get a good running vehicle is much less than trying to crank something with a rough tune over, etc. LUK.

OK, I'll check the wipe once more like Joel stated and run 'em then.

As an FYI, most low impedance injectors are the same resistance. The ballast resistor pack for the 280Z looks exactly like the ballast pack for the RB's that is posted earlier. If the ohm rating of the Z injectors are the same as RB injectors then you are probably OK.

Erm, dead battery? It will read 12V or close to it, but soon as you pull a load on it, it drops to virtually nothing.

I cannot confirm that it is merely a relay just yet, but a relay could be called an amplifier. That's essentially what it is; feed it a low amp signal and it can spit out a larger amp signal, etc.

Your link is borked with ellipsis. Welcome!

All of it is a crapshoot, but you need to have a stock vehicle dynoed that the MFR gives realistic numbers for. This has to be a the same type of dyno that you are using WHP numbers to convert from. At that point, you have a drivetrain loss for your car from that dyno, etc. etc. Honestly, pie-in-the-sky crank HP numbers are just that; pie in the sky. Even so, drivetrains don't take a fixed percentage of your power. Each type of drivetrain has different losses; manuals less than autos (typically). AWD more than 2WD (typically). Transverse trannies more than longitudinal (typically).

How is that going to blow HG's? Are you sure you read everything I stated? I directly told him to taper it off of higher octane. Obviously having a pro tune it is the way to go, but if you can't do a basic tune on your car, you shouldn't have a standalone on it in the first place, IMHO. Especially if it's a DD. Mark

First thing >I< would do is read all the stickies! If the L is too expensive and you are already partway through the swap, abandoning ship and jumping to an RB is going to be way more money.

Mapping to the engine is up to you, but that's where the hot side comes into play. You are basically correct on your assumptions about PR the same and flowrate divided in half if you choose to employ two turbos.

To be safe I ordered a set of Nissan Competition .190" pads from MSA.

It fell a few inches? They can take a much more serious beating than that. Like they said, inspect for a borked surface on the driveshaft.

Pretty much. It's not just the sensor itself that is a limitation of the stock electronics. Never really liked the VPC.... Megasquirt.

Ditto. Do some searching and then feel free to PM me about a few things if you like. Click my project thread (in signature) for some photos of a turbo'd L28.

Look at the EFI Bible, but I seriously doubt the ECU is anywhere near that smart. I'd be looking at all your sensors, blown pipes, etc. Fuel pump sounds like a culprit. Get the gauges on there! Did it puke coolant? Is it full?